Cool Hand Luke

Thanks for the info. The plan was to run a 50 or 75hp shot when its run at the strip anyway, plus if it makes most of its power from gas, then i see it as a bit of a one hit wonder.... I dont mind a higher boost threshold, as it will have a 9000-9200rpm rev limit, as i said. Good power from even 4500rpm, still gives it a 4500-4700rpm usable powerband, and 50% of its total rev limit, which is fine. The T300 that was on it before i guess could be classed as a bit of a laggy turbo, but when driven correctly i didnt find it a problem except a few times on the street, and that was due to an error on my behalf more than anything else.

Out of curiosity, is the the duration or lift that gives the car a lumpy idle?

Hey thats cool, cos its for a SR20 . Have a low mount hks exhaust manifold, with hks external wastegate (not sure what size), and hks t300 on it currently, and it makes 272rwkw now. Im looking for 330rwkw with the new engine, and thought modifying the t300 would be a better option than getting a completely new turbo.

I guess this could be semi-off topic, as this isnt a question for an RB engine, but the nissansilvia forum is chockers of fully sick kids, and not much technical knowledge... Im currently in the process of rebuilding my SR20. In its previous form it made 272rwkw on pump fuel with a hks t300 @ 25psi, microtech ecu, and weisco forged pistons. The turbo's performance is actually quite good, which from memory made full boost around 3700-4000rpm. The main downside is that the stupid amount of boost it requires for the power it makes. On the lower boost setting of 19psi, althought it was never dyno'd when i had the car, the seat of the pants feel isnt much different from the 25 so that tells me the turbo is out of its efficiency range correct? The engine has been rebuilt with rods, pistons, solid lifters, cams etc, and are hoping for around 330rwkw, and are wondering if say modifying the current turbo is worth its while? I remember reading on here not long ago someone had the housing machined a few mm and picked up 20rwkw or so while just raising its boost threshold slightly? Would getting it rebuilt with slightly larger wheels or housing give more power at lower boost, or being an old school turbo, would i be better off getting a gt3071r? The new engine's rev limit will be no higher than 9000rpm, so something that made full boost around 4500rpm is fine, as it gives it a 4500rpm usable power band. If a new turbo is the way to go, is the 3071r the best way? if not what?

I ran 16psi on mine constantly without a fault, but i could have been lucky... From memory (which is far from faultless), you should be able to get 200+rwkw from the stock injectors. Even if it was within your fuel pump's limits, i'd get a new one cos the extra stress on the probably 10+yr old pump might end its life prematurely. The 2 best mods i made on mine were the S2 RB25 turbo, and possibly the best, a chipped ecu afterwards. Its a pretty good street combo after.. Nice power, and hardly any, if any more lag than stock. Good luck!

haha err whatever that means.... or is that just me? this isnt answering your main question, but in terms of traction on the street, 300rwkw will always be difficult. If your car isnt setup well, it will be near impossible. My only experience with cars near that power was my old 180sx that had 280rwkw. That would sometimes wheelspin coming onto boost in 3rd gear, with pretty good tires, and coilovers.. Or you could take off from a standing start in 2nd gear, spinning all the way till around 100km/h ish. As R31nismoid said, there a lot more things that come into doing quick times (quick is a more of a personal opinion anyway) than just power, or even smooth usable power... Its useless if you cant get it to the ground efficeintly. - Also what kind of R33 do you have? How will you drive it on the street? And what is your idea of a quick time?

If i was doing a conversion, i'd pick the 1jz hands down. For the performance, and the cost. The blue celica in thats racing the cressida in those pics was also in zoom (if its the one i think it is) and was putting out from memory 350odd rwkw on pump fuel without gas, and just bolt on's and i think that had 264's in it... Martin donnon from zoom's manual soarer was putting out 320-350rwkw from memory on pump without gas as well... with stock internals The best thing is as 1jz-747's car shows, they run for years like that. IF you go that much power out of an RB25 (thats a big if), i doubt it would last a year or 2 of hard driving... Both the RB and 1J have strong gearboxes, so that doesnt really come into play. If the engines were totally equal in performance and cost, i would still choose the 1J for the........ SOUND! Awesome sounding 6!

HARDCORE "PERFORMANCE"???? *shudder* Mate, my advise is to stay away from Hardcore, unless you want to buy something like a tacho or a blow off valve. In the few times i've been there where i had a leaking intercooler (which i knew because it was prone to that), and took my car in to fix that and only that. I had a subzero plenum on it, which they tried to tell me the runners werent sealing properly and re-welded without asking, and said it fixed the problem (which it didnt), then got the suprise of having a coke bottle stuck between my intercooler and bumper (which they treid to convince me they didnt put it there), add to that an undone throttle cable which got stuck half open when trying to test to see if my intercooler was fixed, and a fuel rail which wasnt done up and p!ssed fuel everwhere (which they told me it was done up really tight, and must have a problem with the thread!), and luckily enough i was stopped by a pedestrian before i left who pointed the leak out to me.T The mother of all has to be a squashed by them sump because they thought its a great jacking point... this lead to an oil pickup problem, which subsequently led to a big end gone 5mins after leaving their shop whilst i was going up moss st, testing my to see if my still cracked intercooler was fixed (which you've already figured it wasnt)! To top it all off, i took the car back and it went up on the hoist, and they found this mysterious crack in the cooler, which they tried to tell me it wasnt there before (even though i only drove the car for 5mins).... If thats not enough, when i told them about the sump, they denied it, even whilst having a squashed pickup in my hand! This isnt the first story i've heard like that from that hell workshop. Dont say you werent warned about them... they're dodgy as they get, and not worth the money you save by seeing them. Steer clear! EDIT - they also tried to tell me that they fixed my intercooler leak (which was aparantly pressure tested!), and that the ecu needs to be remapped because it was mapped with a leaking vacuum hose! Its a beyond a joke, and im still rebuilding the engine because of this crap.

Dont flame me, because im not dissing anyone here. But my experience with engine building (which is more than you probably think, and with some very high profile builders) is that its not a matter of buying this part, adding this, give it a port and polish etc etc, but building an engine combination which all the parts work effectively together, and the engine is built as an enitre package, rather than buying cool and popular bits and throwing it together. I've seen so many times an engine which has all the brand name parts, and performs not much better than a stocker, and sometimes worse overall. There are so many variables that go into a good engine combination, that you cant list 3 or 4 engine specs and ask the power output and how long it will last. What are ALL the specs of your combination? What fuel? How good is your engine tuner? how will you drive it? How will the parts work together/will the parts you bought work efficiently with your combination? the list goes on, and the replies in this thread prove that there isnt a definate answer to this on going argument that seems pop up in this forum :>

what is big power? what turbo are you using? or am i going blind?

My unopened engine's revlimit was set to 8,200ish...

You've never done a burnout thats made smoke for "innocent" people to breathe in before? Im not having a go at you, but if anyone gets a wiff of your gas after your external gate has opened, its hardly going to harm them..

The other reason why externally gated cars with screamer pipes sound so much better, is that the exhaust is normally coming out before it enters the turbo, therefore much louder.

The thing i always find it funny on here is people say, "its federal law, and its illegal" but how many people's car break the laws here, or break the laws in their cars.. i dont think anyone could say they dont. I think a screamer with an externally gated turbo sounds awesome.. Suprises a few people with a stealth exhaust on... An internally gated turbo with a screamer pipe from my experiences sounds like a strangling cat... a HHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA sound... like when you hear a car with a really quiet exhaust getting up it... just a lot of air out of a pipe sound. If you want to hear a video, search for the video HKS Twin Turbo Supra VS. Nissan 240sx.mpg on kazaa, the supra has one... bear in mind that car probably has 800+hp.. but gives you an idea how loud it is... haha its hallariously loud. The thing to bear in mind when you have a really loud car as well, is that police will hear you from ages away, which might sound cool, but you're always treading on eggshells when you get up it in the city, or anywhere for that matter

Winding the boost made a bit of a difference on mine when i had it, and i just used a t-piece. The biggest differences i found, and was quite a big difference was an RB25 turbo @ 16psi and i got an ecu from dr drift. That was in a 180sx, but would have ran 12.7-8's for sure, and was more driveable and much better on fuel than before i got the chipped ecu. The turbo was no laggier, and revved cleanly till 8000rpm

I agree with you cruiseliner... but you take the good with the bad. Although quite opinionated, this forum would have the most open minded (and knowledgable) people that i've seen on any forum... and thats why i think its one of the best. Bring up something like what BOV sounds the best and its a different story tho

Im trying to get a map sensor for my avc-r which got wet and has stopped working. I was quoted something rediculous like $300 for a replacement one from the distributor. Does anyone know where these are available for a more reasonable price, or if i can use another one without any problems?

It sounds more like surge to me. Especially with a rebuilt rb25 turbo. Could be one of the older stage 2 gcg turbo's which had big surge problems on rb20's.

Agreed. My RB20 180 blew 3 gearboxes in 3 months after a got upgraded the clutch. Sure you save money getting the 20 box, but the hastle of them blowing its not worth it. Nothing worse than sitting on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck and being off the road. Doesnt take long to wear thin

I went through RB20 gearboxes with a 180rwkw rb20 180sx. Albiet i did drive it hard sometimes its not hugely powerful. Also had a friend with an rb25 180 which had 250rwkw and an rb20 box, which he went through 2 in a few months. An rb26 would just chew through them and it becomes a pain in the arse getting towed all the time.

Hmm its getting a little to serious for people just giving their opinions dont you think. I agree with both of you, sure its nice if people respected and understood what a good car a gtr is and how to treat it, but on the same token not everyone does know and maybe they do buy a gtr for the "image" or whatever. wldcrd is right, they can do whatever they want... after all its just a car, and its not your car they're doing to.. Try not to get to stressed over something you cant control or you'll die a young man!

As to4gtr said, dont do them in first, at least 2nd....

Ugh after reading the first page of this thread im not going to read the rest, so forgive me if i've missed something (although im sure it wasnt too valuable). Ive owned 2 180's, and driven an R32 a few times. My experience is that the 180 as a stocker pretty much blows, nowdays not many are stock tho. The first one was just a stocker (rims included haha) with an RB20. It was nice but if you changed a tyre you can see how weak the chassis is... its unbelievable how much it flexes. The R32 was pretty stock from my recollection and was a much nicer drive, and im sure the 33 would be as nice or nicer even though its extra weight.. bear in mind the S13 was designed and basically unchanged except engine and brake specs since 89. The 2nd 180 had a roll cage, tein coilovers, and 270rwkw. (just boltons and forged pistons). That was a completely different car, and by far the most fun ive had in any car. Allthough rough as shlt on the street, handled unreal and had loads of torque without the "fart can" sound like most people think they have. My advice would be if you want a fun car to throw around, get a 180 with atleast coilovers... And dont expect the SR to be a revelation in fuel economy. Depending on the tune and power, but mine could go through almost half a tank in 60kms when i drove it hard. But pussy footing you should get 430ish Hope it helps, good luck haha!

In all fairness, intercooler ineffiecency, incorrect cam timing, and retarded ignition are not going to loose 90rwkw which this should be making.. Unless they are all completley wrong, i would say that your tuner has it right that its a mis-matched turbo and is surging under boost. Would be great to hear the results after the gt30 has been fitted.

Thats not always true, bigger injectors are less efficient at firing smaller amounts of fuel. I had a sr20 with 660cc ish injectors and could still get 440km/tank. Driving it hard i went through half a tank in 60kms tho.