Cool Hand Luke

The "chatter" is just the air blowing back through to turbo and being chopped up, like when you blow backwards through a fan. Loosen the blow off valve and it will fix it. Tightening it increases the spring tension therefore requires more to open it. Personally if your running an AFM and aftermarket BOV you are better to have some low-rpm chatter. I had mine set so that more or less anything under 1-2psi the bov wouldn't open. Every time the bov opens it pumps a load of fuel through...

If a car is developing the maximum hp that a turbo can develop, and you do other modifications to the car such as head, cams etc will you get a hp increase? The reason why im asking as the turbo i currently have cant develop any more hp on the car, no matter how much more boost i run. Im rebuilding the engine (sr20) with solid lifters, cams, rods and head modifications and are curious if the turbo will hold the engine back. Im running an external hks wastegate but its quite small, what would the effects be if the wastegate is too small? Or what advantages are there going to a larger one?

I have owned an s13 with both sr and rb.. First i owned the rb, fairly minor mods, ecu, s2 rb25 turbo @16psi, turbo back exhaust, fuel pump, fmic etc. I loved it and the 6cyl does sound great when it revs to 8200! With the ecu done the rb20 pulled from 3500-3700 all the way to the 8200rpm rev limit, so it does have a wider powerband. But you really need to run the 4.3 diff gears to compensate for the high revs. When i owned it i used to bag sr's... unitl i owned one. Albiet the sr was modified more (had forged pistons and HKS T300 turbo) so its always going to make more power, i was more suprised at how it developed it. The rev limit was set at 7300 but if it was capable would have pulled much further past it, maybe the stock ones dont pull hard but within a few seconds of snatching 2nd and if it didnt wheelspin too much you were on the rev limiter and looking for 3rd. It really pulled hard and the torque difference was noticable. Dont forget that if it makes the same power but revs lower its going to have more torque, and if it doesnt have too short gearing will always be faster accelerating. The other difference was the handling of the car, the weight difference of the rb was definately noticable. The other things was if you were going to race in the rb, to get a good start you would always have to fan the clutch, where as the sr hit hard straight away. If you dont think torque makes a difference, drive a rb20 and rb25 with 180rwkw and tell me which one you prefer... but this isnt a comparison between the rb25 so it doesnt matter

How strong are rb25 gearboxes? I am looking to fit one to an sr20 that in its current tune has 270rwkw but after its rebuild hopefully 310-330. I can get a 2nd hand one for 1800-2200 or a brand new one for $3400. I have gone through more many sr20 gearboxes than i'd like to remember and are looking for the best solution without spending a few squillion $$. Thanks

The one on my RB20 180 was gutted, at was tested with the over rich stock ecu in and was told its fine and drive on... i dont think its a big deal if a few cars dont have them to be honest, seeing as how many race cars, bikes, trucks and everything else pollutes the atmosphere...

Thats odd, as the top speed in each gear is restricted by the rev limit, unless you were shifting earlier, and changing boost wont change your rev limited You should go a lot faster if you dont double clutch, you only need to double clutch a non-syncro gearbox, like an old truck or something.. meaning push the clutch in, let it out when its in neatural and blip the throttle, push the clutch back in and finish the gear change...

Where abouts am i able to get a modded/or get modified the standard ecu on my rb20? Chiptorque want $700 which i could almost buy an aftermarket ecu for that much... i remember some people do exchanges for the original one plus a few hundred $. What sort of power gain would be expected, it has FMIC, S2 RB25 turbo, turbo back exhaust, pod filter, 15psi?

Pics sent! Here are pics of the car, its still for sale and want to get rid of it asap as its no use to me anymore without a license! Call me on 0412 417 187 if you want to know anymore about it or come out to see it, im in South Brisbane.

Emails sent, 2 came back as unavailable... the hotmail and turbopulsar one i think

I now have proper pics for those who want to see, i cant get them small enough to post on here, so i'll email them on requests. I've dropped the price to $17,200 as i need to get rid of it, as much as i dont want to.. Only reason for selling it is because of loss of lisence for unpaid fines! It ran 13.2@106mph with cheese for tyres, bad (low) fuel pump voltage, and a leaking intercooler pipe. Like it is now it shouldnt struggle too much to get a high 12. Always garaged, and serviced often. $17,200ono 1993 - Red Genuine 87,000k's for the car, and a few thousand less for the engine 5-Speed DOT Approved Custom engine mounts etc. 18" wheels VGC tyres R34 GT-T Turbo PWR FMIC with custom end tanks Near New 5-puck ceramic direct clutch 3" Turbo back exhaust w/split dump (1 Straight through muffler & hi-flow 3" cat) apexi twin chamber BOV POD Filter mounted in front guard Turbo smart bleed valve NGK Iridium plugs about 5,000km old Boost guage Double DIN CD 6x9's Billett look steering wheel Power windows/Digital climate control Black tinted windows Custom number plates (Not-04) Contact me on 0412 417 187 if you want to see it, i live in South Brisbane.

If your interested, come have a look and see what you think first. Then if you think its un-reasonable, make an offer that you think is. Call me on 0412 417 187, im in south brisbane.

Willing to accept reasonable offers guys...

Emails sent, sorry if you got them a few times, email program not working correctly

I took it off the market for a bit, but have decided to sell it definately now. I've got some pics, albiet bad ones from my phone, but gives you an idea. Will be trying to get a hold of a proper camera asap. Interior is in perfect condition save for a slight wear mark on the drivers seat, exterior is in vgc, 1 small carpark dent on the right rear 1/4 and a couple of stone chips or cracks here or there.. for a 10 year old car its great. The paint is still bright and shiny, not going orange anywhere. I ran the car once at willowbank, with borrowed cheese used for tyres i was able to reel off a best of 13.2 @ 106mph with a 2.2 60foot time. I worked down to a 2.0 sec time but missed a gear, so with the tyres it has now should run a 12 without too much of a problem, especially as i found out the other week that it had a small leak in the piping which caused it to loose a lot of power below 5000rpm, and a connection for the fuel pump came disconnected and wasnt getting full voltage, therefore loosing noticable top end power. I've always kept it well maintained, and are quite fussy, so from a maintenance point of view didnt really comprimise. The only reason im selling it is because i lost my license for 2 years.. dont drive with unpaid fines and talk on a mobile! Asking price is $17,900 5sp D.O.T approved R34GTT turbo PWR front mount with custom end tanks 18" anz rims (215/35 & 245 35 tyres, all vgc) 5 puck ceramic clutch from direct clutch, only done a 2-3000km, mostly highway. 3" turbo back exhaust with split dump POD filter mounted in front guard. apexi twin chamber b.o.v ngk iridium plugs double din head unit 6x9's Custom plates (not-04) boost guage Small interoir mods like silver console, billet look steering wheel etc. Post your email address and i'll send some pics, or call me on 0412 417 187 if you want to come look at it, i live in South Brisbane, just near mater hospital

I'd like to see how much damage it does, my 180 when i bought it had a blocked BOV and wasnt working since new... actually it was incorrectly plumbed. It was running 27psi and 4ich pipe from the intercooler so there was alot of air, and had driven 20,000 hard kms like that and is still going fine. It sounds unreal, it was that loud it used to echo off buildings in cities, but i got it fixed after a few weeks of owning it.

I agree with the tyres/suspension thing. I had a 180 that had 270rwkw on street tune or 327rwkw with good fuel. 270rwkw with 245's with a nice launch on grippy street would spin through 2nd and kick a bit sideways into 3rd. Put 195's on it (a heavy gts-t with 300rwkw would be not much better than this) and it was fun for a while but could easily get beaten by stockish cars till 4th. In other words 300rwkw is useless unless you have good suspension and tyres... and they are equally as expensive as engine mods.

I should have some available shortly... The only reason im selling it is because i lost my license for 2 years! (Dont ever drive with a disqualified license!)

Ive decided to drop the price of my 180 again, to $18,500. Its done a genuine 87,000km, engine about 8-10,000k less. DOT approved, 5 months rego left i think. I ran it once at willowbank and only did a few passes with a best of 13.2@107mph, with a wheelspinning 2.2 60foot time i did get a 2.0 but missed a gear!.. so with good tyres (ala not crappy borrowed jobs ) it should run into the 12's.. Its in VGC throughout, here is the list of mods: 5sp R34GTT turbo PWR front mount with custom end tanks 18" anz rims (215/35 & 245 35 tyres, all vgc) 5 puck ceramic clutch from direct clutch, only done a 2-3000km, mostly highway. 3" turbo back exhaust with split dump apexi twin chamber b.o.v ngk iridium plugs double din head unit 6x9's boost guage I think thats all the mods done, contact me on 0412 417 187 or pm for more details

It has done 87,000 Kms, engine has done 86,000. Its red and is in VGC inside and out (has one small trolley dent in righ rear 1/4). The one time i took it to willowbank it ran a 13.3 @ 106mph with a wheelspinning 2.2 60ft time. With the tyres it has now it should run into 12's. And with a re-map would definately. 5-Speed DOT Approved 6 months rego 18" wheels VGC tyres R34 GT-T Turbo PWR FMIC with custom end tanks Near New 5-puck ceramic direct clutch 3" Turbo back exhaust w/split dump (1 Straight through muffler but not too loud) apexi twin chamber BOV POD Filter mounted in front guard Turbo smart bleed valve NGK Iridium plugs about 5,000km old Boost guage Double DIN CD 6x9's Power windows/Digital climate control Black tinted windows Custom number plates (Not-04) Call me on 0412 417 187 for more info Asking price: $18,900

I have a 180sx with an rb20 and another with an sr... The guy who owned the sr spent alot of money on it (read 15-18,000) and it makes 435rwhp.... To be honest i could never justify spending that much money on a 4cyl, i worked out a RB26 conversion would cost around 11-13000 fitted, plus you can sell your sr/gearbox. From a standard 26 if you really pushed it with the standard turbos you should get 270-280rwkw which is around 370rwhp..... bolt on a turbo and ecu, with a fuel pump an d injectors and your laughing. The weight difference in the rb is noticable, but not what i would call un-balanced! "Would i run 300rwkw on a rwd on the street??" F*** yes! Its a blast, drive it off boost and you get 420km to a tank, open it up at 80-90kmh with not clutch and the back end just breaks traction and squirms under power, pushes you so hard into the back of the seat! Makes me laugh every time i do it.. Plus you suprise more than a lot of people on the street

haha, typical RB owner I cant wait to get my ETA-33 number plate. I have an RB aswell, but i'll race you with my SR if you want :burnout:

If your getting a "fluttering" sound under high boost, that is also compressor surge.. a result of a mis-matched turbo/engine combination. Read a few zoom issues ago, its power robbing and also bad for the turbo. I admit the choo choo choo sound is unreal, when i bought my 180 the guy had the blow off valve hooked up in-correctly and didnt work at all (he had no idea it wasnt working). It runs high boost and has big piping so there was alot of air in there, and made a better sounding and far louder sounding noise than any blow off valve i've heard. Im interested to see how the turbo is now after 6 or 8 months of driving around like that running 26psi, but it cant be good for it and made it laggy as hell between shifts.

rb's wont spin in 2nd

You could have a 700hp turbo that makes boost at 3800rpm or one that doesnt till 4500, you really need to know specs.. internals will allow you to run higher boost and revs, but wont really effect the spool up time of the turbo, but once again depends on what cams, what exhaust, what turbo specs, how much and how big your piping is, what intake you run

With my SR180 and 195's i could wheelspin at 110km/h for as far as i wanted in the dry (i got a fine on the highway within 20mins of driving with those tyres ). Tyres make a phonomenal difference i had 2 difference sets of 235's, once were pathetic and would spin for a fair bit when i shifted into 3rd, while the others would just twitch and hook up well. To answer your original question i would say 220rwkw with a stockish suspension/tyres setup.