Cool Hand Luke

Cant get it at the right price. I like the car, but its not worth $50/week on top of car payments just for the insurance. I called everywhere and the best i can get is $2100. Could get alot better but just car doesnt honor driving company cars to change your rating so with them i have a rating 5. Unfortunate, because i was looking foward to my motec/TD06 ugprade Famous were the cheapest at $2195 or so, with a few others around the same price. Just car quoted $2200 with rating 5 or $1200 with rating 1, which i would pay but cant get I think im going to go back and try for a 12. The tyres on the car arnt that happy, down the the worn out marker. I reduced the rear tyres to 25psi, not sure if lower would help as they are 235/40/18's. What are the opinions on the clutch? The last run i slipped it a bit to control the wheelspin, and it just held there and slipped even after i took my foot right off, and wouldnt release till i missed 2nd gear about 5 times Its a 5 puck brass button that direct clutch said it would be good for well over 500hp, i dont think that my car would be anywhere near that much, and are quite dissapointed

Not a bad night last night, once i got my starts sorted though the clutch didnt agree and the pedal stuck itself to the floor... just what you expect from a brand new button clutch from direct clutch. Anyway, i managed a best of 13.4@105mph with a 2.2 60ft. The last run my 60ft time was 2.0 but i couldnt shift into 2nd because of the clutch, so with a theoretical best of 13.2 im pretty happy . With my over rich std ecu tuned im sure i could pull off a 12 Also if anyone wants to buy it, let me know, selling it because i cant get comprehensive insurance, which is a must for your daily driver..

Do an RB20 conversion on your 180! Ive raced a cat back 180 with sr and beat it by around 3 car lenghts from 50-90kmh... The only mods ive done to it are an RB25 turbo (hardly a mod, just making up for a design fault), FMIC, turbo back exhaust and a slipping clutch! I also raced an R33 with FMIC etc and beat him much to his disgust In terms of looks, i have a 93 180 with 18's and it looks not too bad, even with stock bodykit

What sort of power gains with a correctly tuned RB20 and decent turbo over the standard plenum?

so changing the fins does what?

About a week after changing to the rb25 turbo, my clutch hasnt been too happy, for a few reasons. I guess the extra power has worn the clutch, and it had run out of adjustment, which resulted in no fre-play and has effectivly rooted the clutch. Ive found out that the gearbox whine is only the thrust? bearing because of no freplay, but im going to have to buy a new clutch. Im after a clutch that i dont need to go on steroids to use, but wont need upgrading when i go for my proper turbo/ecu upgrade. What do you guys recommend, and how much would i be looking for the clutch, and how much extra would it cost to install? Im guessing that the stronger the clutch, the more bighty it gets, so i know i wont get the best of both worlds. Im in brisbane, so where can be recommended up here?

Do you mean take the kick panel off and take a photo, or take the ecu apart and take a photo of its insides? As for the cut, i guess so. But it will cut out in 3-5th gears any time.. Ive only reached 6000rpm in 4th and 5th at night, and ive only had the car for a few months so its always been cold. But it has cut out in 2nd early morning last week.

If i ran a diagnostics wouldnt it say if wire 53 was not hooked up? If it isnt hooked up what will it do? Also if the AFM is maxing out, why? I was told it would be good to a bit over 200rwkw, and cant see that my car would be making that much power. Ive been curious if it had been chipped before, because i have problems with detonation at 5700-6500rpm, but if i run octane boost it is fine. Just guessing that it was mapped for japanese fuel, not ours.

I have a series 2 rb25 turbo on my car running at 14psi and have had no problems, driven resonably hard for around 5000km, and is my daily driver. I was going to do for a VG30 turbo but it required different dump pipe and a few other mods, the RB25 has less lag and is a lot simpler to install. Definatley worth the upgrade, makes max power around 7200rpm, but pulls well all the way to the rev limiter. I still have an un-chipped ecu but still the power difference from the standard turbo was well worth it.

I went for a drive in a 180 with an RB25 and GT30... very impressive and suprisingly good throttle response. There was nowhere near enough lag to make me think about going smaller if it was my car, but thats just my opinion and i can put up with a bit of lag for good hp

Before everyone flames me for being a ricer, wanting neons... and no doubt people are going to say how shit external venting BOV"s are and whats wrong with the stocker etc etc etc, i just want to ask a question, because my stocker leaks and if i want an aftermarket bov, i dont want it to sound annoying.. Has anyone used the monza ssq bov? Does it make that high pitched whistle like hks one? If it does, can it be changed to a more normal sounding one? Also is the monza bov adjustable? Just seems like something must be missing over the hks one if its less than 1/2 the price... or is that just the name? Also what do the apexi twin chamber valves sound like? I want something that doesnt make the sneezing pssshhhhhh noise like the stockers and turbosmart ones make.

My gearbox has started to get whine alot. Especially the first 3 gears. I have checked the oil level and it was fine. It doesnt worry me if its not a problem apart from the sound, but i dont want to have a blown gearbox as its my daily driver

Hmm.. when you say 230 at the wheels, KW or HP? It wont be puttting out 230kw, at the moment i have these mods: RB25 turbo @ 14psi 3" turbo back exhaust, with seperate dump PWR FMIC Pod Filter mounted behind front bumper Stock un-chipped ecu Stock afm, just taken rear mesh off but did it before that came off It has also happened in 2nd gear, when i was doing a burnout up a hill, it was revving between 7500-8000rpm and was pinned for a 10 secs or so, its pretty dangerous because the engine just shuts down for around 5-10secs then takes off again. Also my BOV leaks around 1bar, not sure if this would cause a problem but im going to get another one.

Dont know what the speed cut wire looks like... I know what a rev limiter is Rev limiter is at 8000rpm on an rb20, and it doesnt change from gear to gear, also when you hit the rev limiter it doesnt shut down the engine for around 5 - 10 secs.

I recently went for a top speed test in my car, even though it has a 180km/h speedo (In closed course test conditions only). However it has this annoying, and slightly suvere engine cut at 7500rpm in 3rd, 6000rpm in 4th, 6000rpm in 5th, which is around 220-230km/h. Is this normal, the speed cut or something? If so, i thought it would be quite gentle, and at 180km/h. Its like you turn the ignition off for around 6 or 7 secs, then fires back up. Happens the same revs in those gears each time, so it wasnt a random thing.

I would almost bet my left whatever that its your oxygen sensor. I had the same problem with my car, disconnect it and see if it idles better. When i got a new one, the idle was perfect and a big difference in fuel economy (I had to disconnect the faulty one till i found the new one)

Hey what mods have you got done? A mate of mine has a 180 with a nice RB25 that made 260 or 270rwkw... 100km/h wheelspins

I had the same problem and it turned out to be that the knock sensors were disconnected. at around 5300-5500rpm there was a noticable drop in power, drove me insane. Search the froums on how to do a diagnostics with the ecu and that will tell you. Good luck. Also now with the knock sensors connected it made ok power to around 62-6500rpm.

also to me please: lukep87@optusnet.com.au

No, any aftermarket computer will use a lambda probe (same as the standard) to measure fuel ratios. However if you disconnect your sensor from the ecu and plug it into the guage, then it will become inaccurate because the ecu needs the sensor to make fueling adjustments for part throttle, and wide open throttle. Also unless a guage gives a figure, i dont really see how its accurate... the whole rich/lean thing with a light inbetween would be no where near as accurate as a number reading.

I saw some sleezew driving around with a red VT SS and XXX-69 Also a vk tried to drag me with his NOS-38 My RB20 180 has NOT-04.. most people dont think thats any good :shake:

sorry mate found the pics. whats your best price for the gear knob??

Hey, Im in Brisbane will take the gear knob if it looks good. can you send me a pic cheers.

That is the water line.. I changed to an RB25 turbo last week... good fun . Im guessing you mean the line that runs under the exhaust manifold onto the back fo the block

When i installed my bleed valve, i had to open it around 12 clicks before it would let the wastegate shut.. What was wrong with yours?