Cool Hand Luke

When i tried to run without an AFM, i got 2 meters down the road and it hit something like a 2-step revlimiter exactly on 2500rpm, so it sounds like possibly the connection to your afm might be faulty. Do the ecu diagnostics, it will tell you

Im going to go and buy a fairly low KM single turbo VG30 turbo on monday for $450 (to put on my rb20). What mods need to be done, at the moment i have a turbo back exhaust with a seperate dump, will i need to get a new dump pipe made up? Thats my biggest concern. Also does this turbo have a ceramic or steel exhaust wheel? And what else do i need to do to fit it on? What is the max boost i can run with it?

Is the single turbo VG30 a steel or ceramic exhaust wheel? Also i got that info about running higher boost with a 25 turbo on a 20 from meggalas site

Hey ive also heard blow off valves that flutter under high boost when they shut off. Sorta like a shivering sound, what causes that then? Not realy a f-t-t-t-t-t-t but a sh-i-o-o-o-o-o-w sound An example would be the supra on exvitermini.com on the dyno. Under full load, then shuts off, you hear the bov opening but instead of a constant whistle, it makes a fluttering whistle. Also on fullboost if you listen to most of the cars on this site, they do the same, and no doubt run BOV's

If its pinging, you can hear it anyway....

Bl4cK32 - Think about what you said in this thread, then what you said about downing someone elses opinion, and how that relates to what people were saying to you. Im pretty sure you will find that they were just expressing theirs, and it seems like you got a very good price for your rebuild. Anyway, how can i tell the difference between a VG30 Single turbo, and the turbos off the twin turbo engine?

So on my 20 box, when i shift real quick and it crunches, its not un-normal? I was thinking the synchro's were wearing out, and I must admit, ive never missed so many gear changes untill i drove this car. Seems like one of the wost gearboxes around. Did you sell your old box? How much can u get for a '20 box anyway?

great, so does anyone know any answers to my other questions? Also GCG have told me that the 500hp hi-flow on a 20 does not work on a RB20, but im sure a 25 hi-flowed is not the same.

The only thing it shortens is the life of your exhaust manifold and tubine wheel due to the excessive heat that it builds. There was a feature on anti-lag systems in zoom a few issues back, might be worth looking into.

a wrecker up here has a vg30 turbo off a single turbo vg30? Is this right, or a different one? I always thought they were twins? I remember reading one has a ceramic and one a steel wheel? If so what are the boost differences between them?

There is a TO4E for sale, it says it has an internal wastegate and suits 3SGTE. Are they all TO4E's the same?

Unfortunatley its not as easy as that. For 2 grand, i agree that you could build up an RB30/25. What about the money for installation and removal of the engine, purchace turbo etc Not to mention that this is my daily driver, so the time it needs to be off the road. Also i dont think that will fit in a 180sx. How much taller is the twin cam 30 over a 20? Even with custom engine mounts i can only just clear the bonnet with the intake pipe running over the top. So add another $1000 for a intake, $800 for plumbing. Im not disagreeing with what you say, but personally i'd rather have an rb20 with 230rwkw than an rb30 with 250. And anyway, i was just asking a few questions about turbos, not engines

What were the specs of your to4, and what price was it?

Ok i thought i had my ideas of a good turbo upgrade sorted for my RB20. I was going to go for an RB25 turbo, then leave it like that for a while and upgrade to a hks2530. However now after reading more, ive become not more, but less certian on what i want to do . My hunger for more power is getting strong, but i dont really want to spend $2500 on a new turbo at the moment, so i have a few questions. At the moment i have these mods: Pod Filter Turbo back 3" exhaust, with seperate dump, & gutted cat 550x270x70 PWR FMIC with custom end tanks Bleed valve VL Turbo fuel pump I have an Motec M4 coming (i know its not the best option, however its off my race bike and will only cost me $1000. New it cost around $4000 with upgrades and IEX expander.) With these mods (motec excluded) what power would i be getting now, and what gain could i get from correct tuning? I havent been to the drags with it so i dont know any et's yet RB25 Turbo: Seems like the best all round solution, but will only give 15-20rwkw gain over mine, which seems not so exciting . With correct tuning what sort of rwkw can i expect from these? Ive also been told that i could safely run 16psi with it as its feeding a 2l not 2.5, and therefore less stress, is this true? VG30 Turbo: How much boost can i run with it as it has a steel wheel, and for people who have had one before, when does it really start to pull hard in say 2nd gear? Also will the VG30 turbo fit straight up no other mods required and with good tuning, what sort of max power could i get from it? TO4E: I read that clint32's RB makes 234rwkw with an TO4E. How much is one of these, how easy is it to get and does it have an external wastegate? I know that some people say it would have terrible lag as its big and plain bearing, but im well aware that a 2l 6 wont be like a BA turbo, nor would i expect it to. When would a turbo like this really pull? I read that clint's made full boost by 4500rpm, would it start pulling hard before or after then? GCG HI-Flowed RB25: I thought it was a fairly expensive option, as GCG dont have cheap prices, but sydneykid was also saying in a post that 250rwkw is achieveable with this turbo, and the boost wound up. How would this be in terms of lag etc? Being in a 180sx, what sort of times could i expect if it hooks up with say 200, 230, and 250rwkw. Just so i can get an idea of what difference in performance it makes as i know well and truly that dyno figures can mean not so much in the real world.

I have a FMIC with a standard turbo, and dont have a problem with lag... it was not really noticable from the standard one to what i have now, plus i was able to wind up the boost to 1bar. Where abouts in brisbane are you? I have a 180sx with an RB20, would be interesting to catch up and have a look at yours, go for a cruise or something.

Why do some BOV's flutter under low boost? I think it sounds unreal

Nothing wrong with the ole' key bang. My car pops as loud as a key bang almost every time i drive it as it has a gutted cat. Only when the exhaust is hot, but when i accelerate, and start slowing down i just have to tap the throttle and it goes BAAANG! Good for a laugh and in busy closed spaces such as cities:)

Did you find out what the hesitation was caused by?

I'll take the bleed valve!

is this a standard R33 RB25 turbo apart from the wastegate, or is it a rb25 turbo with a vg30 exhaust housing/wheel & wastegate? Or something totally different .

what is your number plate and what color is your car? I dragged a s13 silvia with a 6 and beat it tonight .

Can i disconnect the knock sensors to see if they are sending false signals to the ecu so it retards? Im wondering if they are causing a power loss? Otherwise they can stay broken, i dont have a pinging problem anymore

25% increase where in the rev range? Its a common mistake, especially on naturally aspirated engines too go for to large a cam which gains top end power, but sacrifies too much bottom end/midrange which in effect makes the car alot harder to drive, and unless is screaming, less powerful. The RB's arn't under-developed like all the push rod dinasours, meaning that i would be sceptical with the money and research nissan put in and the power gains people claim on standard engines especially.

To give you an idea what 230rwkw feels like, i went in an RB20 with a 25 turbo in another 180sx, and it was easily noticable over my RB20 with std turbo . Thats probably got a 25rwkw power difference.

After only 2 1/2 weeks of fiddling testing and changing bits, i finally found out what was causing my car to ping and loose more than it should 5500rpm+.... the AFM . It was filthy, sprayed it with carby cleaner and it was instantly noticable. Even with more timing now it still doesnt ping, plus is developing alot smoother and better power. I guess i didnt need to buy 6 platinum plugs, 1 FMIC, and the fuel filter, plus retard the timing so much and do all those diagnostic tests after all ... oh well it was for the better that they were replaced. If my knock sensors are playing up, will they cause a decrease in power?