justified2.4

how much for just the gearbox, minus crossmember [email protected]

Yes I have a pair of R31 GTS, the car had RB20det in it.

I am also interested in oil temp and oil pressure, I dont need control unit. PM me as well if you are interested in separating. Thanks

Who are you planning on getting Microtech from? Touge Factory or Phase2 by chance? I just realized you were in NYC, I am up that way all the time. AIM: JCAP Tuning

Located in the US, willing to pay for shipping. Automatic or 5-speed, the motor I am using is from a 1994 Skyline GTS-t Auto. email: [email protected] Thanks.

I sell lightweight aluminum flywheels here in the US, $320 USD + shipping. email: [email protected]

Well... I continued to check the resistance (ohms) at the TPS. I cannot get it down lower than .8 ohms (closed) and 8 ohms (WOT). Not sure if that is a problem or not, but pulled a TPS from z32 and they are opposite of r33, so now I am pulling a R31 TPS and testing it. Hope this works. Not leaving the shop until this car runs right!!!!!!!!

The TPS voltage reads 0.9v closed and 5.11v open, I know thats a bit high. Will just calibration fix this or not? Going thru the FSM and following all the checkpoints right now

I have been trying to diagnose my hesistation problem, checking the codes on the ECU shows code 43 "throttle position circuit". So... now to figure out why.

Thanks for clearing that up, I recall reading on here somewhere that I could use Supra TT injectors, but after doing research here in the US I found that they will not work on my car, but as you stated only applies to US spec cars.

I am still having the problem, I am using Techtom to monitor and it shows that timing is not being pulled. It is almost as if there is no spark where it cuts out. And it is not leaning out either. Checked spark plugs and gapping and they are fine. Not sure where else to look.

I am having a very similar problem, except occasionally after letting off the throttle it starts stumbling really bad and takes a bit to recover as if the MAF is not working properly. But like your problem, if I stay on the throttle after hesistation it kicks really hard and often spins tires afterwards. I am using a Techtom MDM-100 to monitor, and it shows that timing is not being pulled and that it is not leaning out. I checked plugs more than once and they are fine and gapped properly. I am only boosting 10 psi MAX. I am also now running a z32 MAF along with Apex'i S-AFC to try and fix the problem but that is not changing anything. Very frustrated and do not know where to look next.

Supra TT injectors are 550cc and low impedenence, I believe RB25 is high impedence but not exactly sure.

I am interested please email [email protected] with pics. Thanks.

Some symptoms of serious problems are arising and I would like to go ahead and start my search, what are most of you rebuilding doing (i.e. pistons, valvetrain, etc) I would like to do a pretty much standard rebuild, although I would like to beef up the head a little. Any recommendations and good source for these parts? Cheers! Justin www.up-speed.com

Does anyone have the Techtom on their R33 GTS-t? On the s14 there are only three wires from the ECU that go to the CONSULT port: TX, RX, and clock. However on the R33 there are four wires: TX, RX, clock and start diagnosis. I am trying to figure out if Techtom uses the "start diagnosis" wire or if it is used specifically for CONSULT.

here is a R33 gts-t engine with a Blitz Nur Spec R full cat-back Right click and save as

one of the ECUs I had got shorted and I was looking for a replacement and I happen to have quite a few z32 ECUs sitting around.

Just curious, anyone ever tried plugging a z32 ECU in their R33 GTS-t with a z32 MAF.

I have heard that the S-AFC will not allow use of the Z32 AFM on the R33 GTS-t, I am curious to know if it has worked for anyone. I know that the S-AFC allows use of the Z32 AFM on s13/s14 SR20's so I do not understand why it would not work on R33 GTS-t. Cheers. _Justin

is the wiring the same for R33 GTS-t also, or is there wiring directions somewhere online? Thanks _Justin

Just running stock automatic ECU with S-AFC, waiting for the shop to email me the A/F ratios, they said they were fairly steady, but need to see them for myself. I was only running around 9 psi. I am going to try disconnecting NVCS, although I think maybe it is not working at all sometimes and that could be the problem. Plugs are Autolite, gapped down low where everyone recommends for SR and RB.

here you can see where my power drops near 4k Help!

My other hypothesis was that it is the ECU pulling timing, but I need to verify that to know what to start replacing or rewiring.