WHITEBEAST

Hi, need the 2 vents out of the dash, you got them for right price?

Hey mate, let me know if you don't sell 'Power FC'.

Hi mate, I was also after the vents for dash as mine are missing/broken. I live in Bendigo, Victoria. Let us know the price. Thanks.

FOR SALE $27,000 ono 1990 Twin Turbo 4wd R32 GTR Nissan Skyline / 120,100 km I am selling my GTR due to unforeseen reasons, I have loved this car and and I have serviced this car more regularly than needed. It was purchased a couple of years ago from JSA Imports/Melbourne with 86,000 km, as I was the first owner in Australia. It was originally intended to be a street registered track car. The engine undertook a rebuild at 105,000 km and has had all internals replaced with track racing quality gear. The company EAS Performance, from Airport West/Melbourne. Rebuilt this engine. All the engine machining was done by Williamstown Engine Reconditioners, where it was Blue Printed to (specs), receipts for over $11,000 worth of work. I have been driving this with standard turbos, on the standard boost of 7 psi for the first 5,000 km, then had it mapped and dyno'd for 12 psi since. This engine is capable of over 25 psi. As this car has a lot of potential yet. The engine internal replaced were: Arias Pistons Eagle rods Nismo rings Metal head gasket ARP head studs Nismo main and big end bearings JUN oil pump collar Nismo oil pump Tomei Oil Pan Baffle Plate Re-conditioned Head, (valves guides and seats replaced) Twin Plate Nismo Spring Button Clutch - Been engineered for easy rebuilding of clutch. 5" Jasma Muffler (straight through) 3.5" Stainless Steel Exhaust 2x new 'Drift' air filters (better flow) 4x new tyres Alarm and engine immobilizer, 'DRIFT' gauges, central locking, turbo timer, CD/MP3 player, very clean interior, body. If you are interested please call me on, 0431-629-670 for any further details or information. *This car will be on www.ebay.com.au | www.tradingpost.com.au

Engine/Car: RB26 DETT 1989 R32 GTR Type of failure: Broken ring landing (scored the block) State of tune of the engine: Stock apart from an K&N filter pod and 3 1/2" stainless steal exhuast system Factors influencing the failure: Old motor that required tunning (common sense) to be able to remove 'restrictor valve' out of the stock boost control solenoid. Putting boost to over 12 psi maybe 14 psi on standard fuel management. NOT A GOOD IDEA. << is now learning how not to break a car! General comments: Been rebuilt with some better stuff inc. N1 oil pump, baffel kit, something for oil pump on crank that took 3 weeks to get from Japan. Forged pistons (ARIAS), strong rods (Eagle), bearings, rebuilt head. Good to rev to 9000 RPM now supposely. Please don't fellow in my foot steps.

Might be onto something there. Going to just have to see where it all ends up, done my share of stressing about it. I think the way the police are going with all these new laws these days. Is to run an illegal shutter valve in the exhaust when cruising around town and when you see these Police Blitz. (hope they don't see it).

Im screwed!!!! Got a letter a few weeks ago, I was in a shop, and mate comes in after 15 mins. He states to me cops been sitting behind my car for the past 10 mins. I was in a pickup/drop off park. Went out there and they were gone. Thought to myself. "Well, that went well." Got a letter in mail two weeks later stating my car was spotted driving in a particuliar street (load of shi..), and that the exhaust needed to be tested due to a certain police officer thinking it was 2 loud. Fair enough. So went down to exhaust centre gave them a 2 1/2 muffler and said could U mount this and weld up half of the 2 1/2 inch pipe (3 1/2 inch into a 2 1/2 inch), to quiet it down enough. $260 later, did a great job. Went in got it tested 89 db. Woo Hoo passed. Got home removed muffler and put my bad boy muffler back on. Mrs borrows the car! The other day to get to work, guess what! Yes, massive police blitz on Calder Highway on incomming side of Bendigo. Get the phone call from Mrs. "They about to do a EPA noise test on your car." Not good! Got a reading of 113 db! They didn't know the car had just been through a test a gathered. They didn't ask her about it, but stated that I would be getting a fine maybe in the mail. I gather I will, not to sure how BIG yet. Heard a bloke got $2500 fine fore removing his CAT's. I will eventually get through this in the end. Just to make things worse, my clutch shi... itself today (nismo twin-plate spring button clutch) done a hole 15,000 khms since it got re-conditioned. <------------DODGY AS! Anyone had this happen to them before, or simular. Any advice would be muchly appreciated. WHITEBEAST.

Im screwed!!!! Got a letter a few weeks ago, I was in a shop, and mate comes in after 15 mins. He states to me cops been sitting behind my car for the past 10 mins. I was in a pickup/drop off park. Went out there and they were gone. Thought to myself. "Well, that went well." Got a letter in mail two weeks later stating my car was spotted driving in a particuliar street (load of shi..), and that the exhaust needed to be tested due to a certain police officer thinking it was 2 loud. Fair enough. So went down to exhaust centre gave them a 2 1/2 muffler and said could U mount this and weld up half of the 2 1/2 inch pipe (3 1/2 inch into a 2 1/2 inch), to quiet it down enough. $260 later, did a great job. Went in got it tested 89 db. Woo Hoo passed. Got home removed muffler and put my bad boy muffler back on. Mrs borrows the car! The other day to get to work, guess what! Yes, massive police blitz on Calder Highway on incomming side of Bendigo. Get the phone call from Mrs. "They about to do a EPA noise test on your car." Not good! Got a reading of 113 db! They didn't know the car had just been through a test a gathered. They didn't ask her about it, but stated that I would be getting a fine maybe in the mail. I gather I will, not to sure how BIG yet. Heard a bloke got $2500 fine fore removing his CAT's. I will eventually get through this in the end. Just to make things worse, my clutch shi... itself today (nismo twin-plate spring button clutch) done a hole 15,000 khms since it got re-conditioned. <------------DODGY AS! Anyone had this happen to them before, or simular. Any advice would be muchly appreciated. WHITEBEAST.

Anyone got any good priced brand new Z32 Mass Air Flow Meters for me!

Hey, Been tinkering a little, getting it on dyno tomorrow, get him to check for any vacum leaks while its there. Had it on the consult again today and it faulted the MAF/s again after reseting ECU. Getting odd readings out of both sensors, points me in direction of airflow meters. Unpluged one of the MAF's and was getting simuliar fault to the ittimitient one while idling, apart from I couldn't drive at speed due to the ECU putting the rev limited down to 2500 rpm. I will post once I have new MAF/s and more info. Thinks im going down right path now, thanks guys.!

Bump. No ideas? You guys gotta have something for me!

If I get my car working well again I would love to come out for a day, and as long as weather is permitting. You guys can show me how to drive!

Hi all, I have an issue with my RB26. After it warms up, or after a squirt. Once the cold air circuit closed loop has opened. It started off really intermittient. Now it is getting worse. Shutters/hunts and stalls. Started off happening on the highway where it would be driving fine untill it starts surging/misfiring, feels like ECU cuts ignition and fuel, and it stalls, restart/jump start then it will be fine for a little while. I managed to get consult plugged in, and logged data stated faulty Mass Air Flow Meter code## (mind you this could of been from past unplugging of sensor, from having to clean oil out of sensors with contact cleaner (Co2) was causing simuliar problem earliar to this) have now pulled off most of piping around turbos down to housing, now clean!. I can see a little puddle of really sluggy oil (amount of a 5c piece) in bottom of back turbo housing, was also a small amount in front housing (blowback from running 12 psi now maybe) installing a catch can this time. Front turbo shaft feels ok no oil around it, can't reach back turbo shaft or get any further visual inspection of it, apart from a slight amount of greasy old oil around outside of rear turbo. I am thinking it is either of many of things after been reading a few posts. Faulty - Mass Air Flow Meter sensor/s (enough, was enough). Faulty - Air Temperature sensor. Faulty - O2 sensor Faulty - CAS. Faulty - TPS. (allways had odd idling 900-1200 rpm depending the outside temperature) Faulty - Fuel pump (pressure). To much oil in the system (intercooler, plenium, AAC valve, air regulator). - not fun to get at on a R32! Turbo said enough, is enough. Or maybe even a injector/s or even possibly a ECU giving up. If you can help to my cause it would be much appreciated.

I think I might of done the same thing with my stock turbos, They were on edge and I boosted them to 12 PSI! Know where to find a 'good' rear RB26 one?

Sorry, I had a quick look at it DIY.

Hey, I have a issue with my RB26. After it warms up, or after a squirt. Once the cold air circuit closed loop has opened. It started off really intermittient. Now it is getting worse. Shutters/hunts and stalls. Started off happening on the highway where it would be driving fine untill it starts surging/misfiring, feels like ECU cuts ignition and fuel, and it stalls, restart/jump start then it will be fine for a little while. I managed to get consult plugged in, and logged data stated faulty Mass Air Flow Meter code## (mind you this could of been from past unplugging of sensor, from having to clean oil out of sensors with contact cleaner (Co2) was causing simuliar problem earliar to this) have now pulled off most of piping around turbos down to housing, now clean!. I can see a little puddle of really sluggy oil (amount of a 5c piece) in bottom of back turbo housing, was also a small amount in front housing (blowback from running 12 psi now maybe) installing a catch can this time. Front turbo shaft feels ok no oil around it, can't reach back turbo shaft or get any further visual inspection of it, apart from a slight amount of greasy old oil around outside of rear turbo. I am thinking it is either of many of things after been reading a few posts. Faulty - Mass Air Flow Meter sensor/s (enough, was enough). Faulty - Air Temperature sensor. Faulty - O2 sensor Faulty - CAS. Faulty - TPS. (allways had odd idling 900-1200 rpm depending the outside temperature) Faulty - Fuel pump (pressure). To much oil in the system (intercooler, plenium, AAC valve, air regulator). - not fun to get at on a R32! Turbo said enough, is enough. Or maybe even a injector/s or even possibly a ECU giving up. If anyone can help to my cause it would be much appreciated. Thanks WhiteBeast!

I have a RB26, and having issues at the momment can I post it here since were here? Also to this topic. I got my injector maxed out to nearly a 100% at 12 psi on stock turbos. got 209kw@7500 rpm (280hp) at rear wheels. and that wasn't spinning that hard, is a new engine can go to 9500 rpm with more $$$$! To this new topic about MAF's, I was thinking of pulling the mesh off my sensors to clean them better. Alot of oil been through them. I have seen a DIY fix for these meters where U have to re-solder the filaments to the probe (I wouldn't advise anyone to doing this though). They are a sealed unit, with the time you waste, might as well just buy a new or good second hand one. It wouldn't be a good idea to remove this mesh with a standard ECU would it? The voltages under throttle and none throttle be affected. Maybe not.

I would say it could be the CAS (can cause these symptoms, intermittient stalling) would be a good choice for next atempt. sounds like it has been a big hassle for ya man, hope it all works out. P.S. Don't sell it man!

Thought I’d look at another issue with my gearbox (transfer case) looking for a noise under full load off the mark. Bad clunking/banging noise coming from shafts or clutches in transfer case. What I was thinking. I’ll change the oil and get around to buying some rear tyres (nearly bald). So, a easy solution was to disconnect the 4WD by pulling the fuse in fuse panel and one under bonnet (heard the R32 GTR is ok do this, for it doesn’t have pre-loading torque to front diff constantly), is this correct? Can I leave the fuseable link in under bonnetand just pull 10 amp fuse? Still getting a ABS light on dash. How much FUN is it now! Was thinking about hooking up a toggle switch for the 4WD/2WD. To much fun not to have. And a little to much fun for wet roads.

Ok, I tested some sensors. Seemed to of fixed the problem whilst testing, completed test when cold (ECU looped circuited) and then once problem was occurring tested again. Tested A.F.M's. Tested air temperature and engine temperature sensors. When problem was occuring after running for about 20 mins under normal load. I thought I would test the P.T.U (Power Transistor Unit) which I started the first test by placing in a look tight bag in the freezer for about an hour. It wasn't as bad for about 2 mins under load. So gathered might be on right track. The next day got the contact cleaner out and cleaned some terminals and tested the continuity of the loom and continuity of P.T.U when cold, seemed fine. That was when I went to plug loom back into the P.T.U and it refused to. So I removed a rubber water seal from the plug and it clipped straight in. Took it for a drive and havn't had a problem since.

Any info out there? Help!

Yea, and there is oil on it, from my intake maifold.! WTF. Brand new motor. Is it coming from my turbos? I hope so!

My air intake temperature sensor is reading 0.2 omhs short of the the GTR manuals specs. Does this mean it is stuffed? Where can I get a new one? Nissan I guess $$$. It should read. Aprox. 2.5 ohms (when cold) Aprox. 0.8 - 1.0 ohm (when hot) it's reading just under 0.6 ohms

Going to start testing all my sensors. AFM's, O2 Sensors, C.A.S, TPS and if I get the chance the AAC valve on manifold. Hope I find something. On way home from work tonight, I took off with a bit of a squirt, and spotted alot of black smoke (real dark). Never seen this much smoke come out of the new engine , Think it was alot of fuel. AFM's can cause this, fuel + air mixture issues, or the O2 sensor. Who's bidding! lol Please be a O2 sensor!