Roy13

I am thinking of selling my Plug and Play LT-12 Microtech for an R33 GTS-T or a RB 25DET equiped car! Asking around $1500 as it has a full matrix mode tune worth $600 to suit a standardish car with around 200rwkw's. Total cost $2300 still under warrenty. Tuned to suit- STD motor with a FMIC. NEW price $1200 its got to go!

Just getting a Microtech tuned to 15psi so prbably just 200rwkw's for now, but was worried id get there for the tune cause it is 3 hours away and find the feul pump was going to lean out on me!

The trouble is i am getting the car tuned on tuesday so either it will do and the car gets tuned (then i install one later) or it won't sustain the capacity and i ring up and cancel so i have time to put a 044 in.

I am about to reach the magic 200rwkw's and was wondering if anyone out there had 200 or more rwkw's and was using a std fuel pump. Even better has anyone reach there limit whilst tuning so i have some idea of how much room for error i have left?

Do a serch on Microtech LT-12 you'll find heaps and yes they've been out for over 6 months.

Ended up going for a Sumitomo as i have heard only good things, soon will see $220 each unfitted 255/45/17. Would love the Ggrid II's but not available in Aus. Brig S-03's are $430 a pop and gone by 20 thousand. Wouldn't mind looking into the Bridgstone RE 540 but dont think the size is compatable?

Benm i'm not trying to give you a hard time , and i'm not all R33 with these mods get 203rwkw just that 203 is the most i've ever seen with all these mods they seen to vary from 190 to 203rwkw's with those mods. My sugesting you boost gauge is saying i have never seen a R33 produce 203rwkw on 12psi, so my sugestion being maybe the dyno's preasure sensor is incorectly calibrated and you were actually producing 15psi. As you do have a 95 which seem to be the go with std computers!! You have a point with your injectors but with problems as you sugest a graph of air fuel would not be so perfect i am to think. I am telling you this as nobody could give me any feed back on my dyno sheet. If you wish to gain time not kw's i suggest using a plenom that faces the front mount and reducing the length of all the pipes and maybe diametre if you are going to only use the std turbo.

Benm this is what a std computer does, the lowest line is std boost at the time i think 8psi. The next line 14psi and the top line 12psi. Look at you 12 psi compared to mine std computers trip out over the mass of air going throught the air flow meter. All R33 with FMIC, aftermarket computers and 15psi of boost only just make 203rwkw, just curios as to what is going on, my main idea is that you boost gauge is telling porkies! You may actually be running 15psi. Your injectors arn't going lean as they are good for about 215rwkw's.

There you go frank i wasn't being mean at all i just had a suspicion that something was wrong, hate to let you go off thinking 180 odd kw's was enough!

This is a hell of a lot of power for what you have, as a std R33 has only 138rwkw's what is a FMIC? Is it some air flow meter tuner?

Ah yes the bridgestone potenza S-03 is the next tyre up they make 255's but they are $430 each!

do you have a power fc like franks, you should post you settings so as poor frank can reek the potensial of his R34!

I have 255 45 17 rears and they are nankangs not overly happy with them so want to try something new they are only $220 each. Tempe tyres are selling 265 40 17's falkens for $200 never heard of the model number of the ones they are selling though.

I'm not quite sure the difference between your car and benm's but shouldn't you be getting more the same kw's as benm. You are nice and lean so what do you think the diiference is as the HPI R34 has also 1 bar and 202rwkw's, i ask as i am about to get my car tuned and expect to get nealy 200rwkw?

Guys we are still waiting for someone with a standardish R33 to post there microtech dyno tune?

Do a search for "choosing a 200rwkw clutch" good ideas there!

Ok to try and make my comments more useful i am using a 450x300x76 with std pip diameter approx 61mm running 10.5 psi with both coolers manual R33. I am making my comparason to several roll on drags with a 187 rwkw auto LS1, on the same stretch of road. My piping doesn't make a 180 deg turn as i have it running up into the hollow of the quarter gard in front of the wheel to make a smooth turn around. From 50kph in 2nd with the std cooler i can lurch forwood harder he pulls away a little in 3rd he pulls half a car between us then in 4th i can only retain the same gap till the speed cut! From 50kph in 2nd with the aftermarket he instantly pulls away harder then in 3rd he can still pull half a car between us but once in 4th after about half a second boost builds up and i can go from 1/2 a car behind to my tail inline with his nose then the speed cut hits and he smokes me. I have been driving with the std cooler for a while now due to the extra towyness around 2700rpm.

Guys i'm not sure how well you have looked into this stuff but i have done some extensive testing ON ROAD. I have the cooler that plumbs back to the standard piping and you'll find that you loose a heap of bottom end punch from 2700rpm to 5000rpm and will only gain HP in 4 gear between 160 and 190 kph. So unless you are using the car on a duno all the time, are installing bigger turbo and or computer a front mount is only good for the wank facter! Testing done on an R33 and SR20 180SX.

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If it hooks up to your existing oxygen sensor it isn't good enough to tune with but just give you an idea of how its running!

Yes link make one $400 and $350 for the sensor (wide band) perfect for tuning! Looks great to but out of my price range!

You carn't use the standard items as they have a response curve centred around 14.7 : 1 were they are designed to work, you can buy a Jaycar kit that turns the output to a digital read out exetra like 12.8, 13.2 but they are only good for a rough idea. Like mensioned above you need a wide band sensor which cost about $350 and a display to view, like the one link make for $400 expensive but look the part too. Clint i got the ceramic clutch you sugested it is great!

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Even post those lamba tables so we can tune owe Microtechs to those air fuel ratios.

Yeah now your talkink guys post some of your timing graphs or simple tables rpm vs timing and vacume vs timing!