krizza_ca18det

Yeah, but the Sentra specV is like the Pulsar SSS of the Sentra range so it wouldn't surprise me if it runs different cams to the X-trail QR25DE which let it breathe better higher in the rev range. The GT2871r might be a smaller frame turbo than the old VG30ET T3, but it flows a lot more air (400HP rated in 52T 0.64AR trim).

This is something I have thought about as I bought the missus the same model x-trail about a year ago and love how torquey the motors are down low(at least compared to my ca18det with cams anyway ). It will be interesting to hear how the QR reacts to forced induction especially over 5k rpm, as even after replacing the factory headers and cat on our exxy with extractors and a hi flow setup the cams seem to really be matched to low rpm torque production. The power really feels to nose over after 5k, and because of this I have thought that an RB25 turbo with its light weight internals (ceramic exhaust wheel etc) would be perfectly suited to a stock QR25DE+T setup ie. no lag and the right amount of compressor flow. I think the aim with these engines would be to improve low down torque rather than aim for high rpm HP. Also look forward to hearing how the driveline copes with the increased torque loading too. Discopotato03, the brakes are actually pretty good on the xtrails as they put reasonable sized rotors all round, but the handling leaves a fair bit to be desired as you would expect. Keep us informed.

Yeah, as blind elk said check your rear shocks. I had a similar problem when I bought my silvia where the rear would "steer" over bumps. It turned out that one of my shocks was completely knackered and not providing any spring control while the other was OK.

Just received my rotors in Perth today. Cheers!

Here are a couple of pics I took of my cooler this arvo. Only one small stone chip after a year of use ( but plenty of bugs! ). I don't have any pics of my mates cooler but it doesn't look too bad. I can't help you with a price either, as his uncle owns an anodising business so he got it done for free.

Forgot to mention, a mate of mine has anodised his cooler black and it didn't damage the fins in any way. Only complaint is that it looks a bit patchy (ie. not the same colour all the way across).

I have painted my intercooler black and can't see it making bugger all difference to it's efficiency if done sensibly. I masked up the rear of the cooler and the sides of the end tanks and only painted the front so it looks stealth but still allows the majority of it's surface area to be free of paint. I bought good quality etch primer and matte black acrylic paint and laid a very light coat of each on the front of the core and end tanks. The primer was just to try and guard against stone chips etc. By masking the entire rear of the core you stop the majority of paint being passed through the core and coating the cooling fins. My cooler still works great.

Why would you want to break the CAS drive off the exh cam? Generally when this happens you need to replace the cam as the timing jumps all over the place without a solid drive. Why don't you just undo the 3 bolts holding the CAS onto the timing cover and turn it until you get the timing reading your ECU is expecting. Then mark it and drill/tap 3 new holes in the timing cover to locate the CAS in the correct position.

Symptoms point to it being the input shaft bearing, mine makes quite a racket after the box has warmed up. When the box is in neutral and the cluch is not depressed the input shaft is turning, when the cluch is depressed the flywheel is disconnected from the gearbox. You might want to get onto it before the hardening is worn off the shaft.

From my experience with different oils in my mech diff, you can't go past Castrol SAF-XA synthetic if you want a more street friendly diff. I found that other LSD oils (including Redline lightweight shockproof) make a tight mech very clunky. I went through a long saga with mine including getting it pulled down and inspected / reshimmed, and the only thing that made it streetable was the Castrol oil.

I'll be down for N92446 if we can get 5 people, already got the rest. From my experience the Noltec bushes are a very good product.

It looks to me like the SAFC stops making any adjustments when the AFM maxes out. I have noticed on my car that when you recall the peak figures on the SAFC it says that the correction is 0% when the AFM voltage shows 100%, even though it is set to make corrections to the AFM signal from 2000 - 7000 rpm. Of course I haven't been able to watch it in real time at 5000rpm+ on the road

I got sick of going through the same bs with RAC every time my renewal was due on my silvia. Each year they would drop the insured value a heap and when I wanted to change it I would need to take the car to get it inspected by them. This year I decided to get a quote from Just Car and for about the same premium as RAC they insured my car with all it's mods declared for the price I paid in 2001. My NCB was carried over as well. The only downside is that the excesses add up to about $1000 more than RAC ($300 vs $1300). The way I look at it is that I don't plan to smash the car myself, and I always worried that RAC would try to worm their way out of a claim due to modifications anyway.

That's some awesome work you have done there Don! It sounds like you have it running OK now, but I thought I would throw in my 2c that may or may not help. If you take a look through the SAFC install guide you will see that there is some info on setting up different AFM combos (ie. non factory setups) for both GTR and VG30DETT motors which might help you. The one I'm thinking of is the 2 AFM conversion for the VG, where the 2 AFM voltages are set to be added together before being passed to the ECU. This might be a better way of going about it, as you can use the correct AFM resolution setting (RB25 instead of Q45). Just a thought.

G'day, I recently wired a SAFC (blue screen version 1) into my ca18det S13 so I can give you my experience with this unit and hopefully answer some questions. The SAFC doesn't have a knock sensor function (the SAFC2 does) so you won't find a wiring diagram showing it. Your SAFC should have 10 wires - red, green,grey,black.brown,yellow,white,blue,pink and orange. For your R33 gts-t you won't use the blue, pink or orange wires. The grey wire is the throttle position sensor input. Red is +12V power, balck and brown are ground, green is RPM, white is AFM input and yellow is AFM output. I recommend you go to the Apexi website www.apexi-usa.com and download the 2 PDF files from the documentation page called electronics_safc_ins.pdf and electronics_safc_wire.pdf. These contain all the information you need. Make sure you read all the warnings before you attempt to install it. Hope this helps Kris