Jmaac

Just buy the sill adapters, especially if you keep on doing work to it. If you do it wrong it will eventually bend no matter what anyone says. Trust me ive munched heaps

Im pretty sure its an option on GTSTs, maybe GTRs also

I have no idea, maybe just torque it up and let it run in on idle for a while, that way any oil should burn off? I know what you mean, theoretically im thinking it should be perfectly clean for best result... does it really make much of a difference if you do it now or if it fails later? just leave it and give it a shot, you might even save yourself an afternoon - just keep an eye on those sensors! Remember when your torquing it up try not to stop until you hear that click or start/stop. It can take up to 30% more torque just to get it moving again and potentially give you a misleading reading

Usually when you walk into a hospital theres a receptionist to deal with it. And yes, you do ask if they "can have a look at my busted knee". From there your usually given a number/time/appointment whatever to wait, but in this case the guy just fobbed him of with b/s. He would of been better off saying "sorry mate, i dont have any time, its not worth me doing it, or call later and make an appointment", not saying if it aint broke it aint need it. Im sure he was willing to pay for the blokes time. Nothings free Its not the fobbing off i dont like, no offence, its just the level of detail/sophistication people generally work to. Im anal, precision all the way

Im pretty sure it does, an RB30 pump is the only one that needs a little elongation in one of the bolt holes

Pull the plug on and off to see if theres a drop/increase in revs.

Yeah sounds like your AAC is stuck open or the regulator is faulty

Yep im down here on Currumbin beach, up for nething Few blokes here at work with R33's & 180sx's interested too

Its all here, http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/diagr...ter-wiring.html

Pull off your entire dash, you should see some rods somewhere down the side of the AC and a little link that fastens to it. Tighten that Or its your blend servo motor, do a search in the forums for it but you'll have to also dismantle the dash

Check and clean the earth to the ignition system Positive its code 21? is that your interpretation or one from consult?

Yep thats why I hate mechanics&autoelecs, better off doing the work yourself Just download the workshop manuals, its all in there www.importworkshop.com, with all the codes etc. Eventually I'll make a cheap tool that plugs in and does the pulse/code interperetation to a single LED sometime soon Sorry to hijack your thread, but can anyone confirm this, im not sure if its a typing/translation error in the manuals i have. on an R31, R32, R34 the error code for "43" would be: long x4, short x3 pulses and on an R33 the code for "43" is: long x3 short x4 both 12secs in duration

Justin 25 (just call me grandpa) BENG(HONS) Mechanical/BCOM Banking and Finance Working as a Mechanical/Design Engineer, for the last 2 years, at Tyco Water designing patterns/prints/coreboxes/tooling for valves/flanges etc, machinary, structures, control systems etc etc etc. Currently working on re-designing the Meltdeck to suit another 5 tonne furnace, conveyer and vibratory shaker/feeder we just bought and I like beer

see if CRS already has an adapter plate for it Why not just measure it and draw it yourself, then u can get u're plate CNC cut

check aircon diagnostic in tutorial section

I got the darkest legal tint done about a week ago. Mastertint $300 lifetime warranty etc. The car looks sooo much better and yes it does look really dark on the outside, but i dont really have any problems seeing out of it from the inside, even at night im not struggling. And as long as cops can see in somewhat they wont harass u Also u dont need to use your aircon as much and u can root away no problems Dont bother keeping that old tint, just rip it all out

whats the volume of the box

You dont. When you put your ignition to the on position thats Diagnosis Mode 1 - this is the one u notice every morning when u start the car. With the car running, u have to short two terminals in the diagnosis plug (or using consult) to switch to Diagnosis Mode 2 - this will test another array of sensors not usually checked every time u start your car. Turning off to the ON position and turning it back on after DM2 puts it in DM3 - or o2 sensor mode DM2 errors will not flash up i believe until u run a diagnosis. Your ecu remembers the errors for 50 starts unless u do an ecu reset even if its fixed BTW u can do the same thing that a consult can do with the check light on the ecu, or the engine warning lamp. If u can steal an oscilliscope from uni your laughing

Yep, thats why people retain factory ecu or piggyback - nissan spent lots of time and money tuning that stuff You can tune it out with you PFC

Its the one below fire and theft. Any damage to any 3rd party is paid for I.e. u hit them, pays for their car and anything else u've hit but not yours I wouldnt bother with anything else, even being over 25 im looking at 1200 a year on a clean record Thats 1200$ per year on go fast bits - and hey if u crash, u should of saved enough to buy a shell and swap it all back over

racq will only do 3rd party on imports but its cheap, like $100

Yes, its been a while since ive seen it. Its either under your centre console (maybe airbag comp. here?) or under the rear parcel shelf You will then have the light permanently on the dash unless u pull the whole thing apart to cut a single wire. You will need to remove the electronic solenoids motors in an r33 or hydralics in an r32 to fit a hicas lock bar which will lock the rear wheels straight this will not fix the rest of the steering geom. that hicas looks after. It will handle crap but at least the rear wheels are pointing forward.

Thats actually the ignition module that cuts out when it gets hot. Exactly, CAS operation can be very intermittant, especially in crap copys (anything non ACA). Mighty big dust particles to block up those holes I think its more to do with dust sitting all over the optical lens of the laser. You could try putting a cas kit through it. Apparently people have problems with the bearing underneath in Rb30de dizzys. They get old and dry and tend to eject fine dust particles throughout, eventually interfering with the lasers ability to count the pickups on the optical disc

If u have a stock ecu it may run funny you'll have to alter the temperature tables/conversion factors in the ecu to get it running nice and smooth i.e. poor cold starts, runs richer etc. Thats only if the cooling capacity (capacity to cool, not water volume) is increased and normal operating temperatures are reduced Just make sure you bleed all the air out of the head. No amount of water will fill the cooling system if theres a big air bubble sitting up in there. If your feeling really handy you could just scale the signal from the temperature sender with a few electronics Ill scan the RBxx instructions and get them up for u

All of them. Did u lube them up before you replaced them? they tend to roll and not sit properly if u dont...