Jmaac

Hehe I was going to say use an electric, industrial strength impact gun (shits all over air tools). After 2 days of pulling and wiggling, less than a second with the gun and bang off she came. Same gun sheared all my diff bolts straight out of my old BW78 series diff!

Shrink-wrap for wires instead of tape. You just slide it on and heat it up

No matter how big of battery u get make sure you alternator is big enought to charge it o/wise you'll burn it out and kill your new battery anyway Anyone know quickly off the top of their heads the load rating of an r33 alternator?

Reset the gearbox ecu similar way to computer ecu. Should tell you whether or not it is an actual fault Unplug battery, depress brake pedall a few times to remove residual, and connect back up. It might be the OD (over drive) solenoid thats stuffed which wouldnt matter, just switch it off www.importworkshop.com also has all the manuals Sounds like you may have a problem with your CAS or the ignition coil/earth and your car is bumping into R&R mode maybe? One of your previous posts said 88 R34 did u mean 98 R34 or 88 R31?

Oh I wouldnt, just asked. You can also go one afm, two intakes and copy the signal accross the two and scale it

Go EBC, your wastegate is opening too early like all mech. ones

walbro's are crap, bosch much better

On R33's, was there an option anyway to have a butterfly system (all the wiring diagrams ive seen are on them)? can this be modded to suit newer systems?

I had all the same problems with my Rb30e after rebuilding it. I managed to fit the IACC plug onto INJ1 (only plugs that will go back together wrong!!). Did weird things like that, although it didnt miss at higher rpm usually (coilpacks?) quickest and easiest way is to goto wreckers/mates and offer them $10 to borrow one for 30mins to check.

I'll have a look tonight. Try calling Nissan, they should be able to tell you straight up if your mechanics got no idea - didnt he get a book with his consult?

any mods?

Do a good cut and polish, maybe even get a professional job done, and make sure you keep putting heaps of wax coats on to protect it. Dont do it by hand, get a mecahnical unit (30bucks scheap). The paint will ultimately become thinner however

Ensure car heater is on hot (not fan, this ensures that the water in the heater coil is exchanged over aswell) Remove radiator cap (vaccum will slow the drain considerably) At bottom of radiator theres a plug, unscrew and drain water from radiator, hoses, and head. Underneath exhaust manifold, at bottom of block theres also a plug, unscrew and drain water from block. Pull radiator out, flip upside down and flush with garden hose, drain and refit and plug Flush block with garden hose, drain, refit plug Fill cooling system with premix inhibitor, or mix concentrate solution with demineralised water Fit radiator cap, ensure overflow bottle is full, start car until warm At the top of the plenum theres a radiator drain plug (You can also use temp sender). Remove and wait until water starts pouring out and refit. Stop car, top up overflow bottle and radiator if needed.

I believe you cant

I know you said you checked a mates, but the wiring is different on series 1 and 2 R33's - see below Not sure what you've done but you cannot just do a straight swap. You need to modify the VQ table in the ECU to get the AFM working correctly (on the same scale) Skyline (RB20, 25) R32 & R33 Series 1 & 300ZX (Z32) (Same, wire F not used) - 80mm Wire A - Not Connected Wire B - Signal Wire C - 12v Ground Wire D - Signal Ground Wire E - 12v Power Skyline (RB25) R33 Series 2 - 80mm White with Blue Trace - Ground Orange with Black Trace- Signal Black with White Trace - 12v Power Inifinity (Q45) - 90mm Wire 1 (White) - Signal Wire 2 (Black) - Ground Wire 3 (White(or Red) & Black) - 12v Power

They're different. Series 1 has green sticker, Series 2 red/pink. Aside that they are the same size and calibration so each can be used. You may need to rewire the plug however. Series One R33 AFM is the same as the R32 AFM Series One R33 AFM is also the same as the Z32 AFM however a plug change is required because of one additional wire. This wire, F, is not used. Z32 will require ecu remap Series One AFM - 80mm Wire A - Not Connected Wire B - Signal Wire C - 12v Ground Wire D - Signal Ground Wire E - 12v Power Series Two AFM - 80mm White with Blue Trace - Ground Orange with Black Trace- Signal Black with White Trace - 12v Power

whats wrong with the gearbox?

its afm - air flow meter. Follow the airbox (where the air filter is), its the first thing bolted to it with a plug attached to it. You'll see a nice fine wire running accross the diameter. r&r will retard ign and richen mixtures. It'll run like a dog, blow lots of smoke, have little power, and not let u above a certain rpm If it is the coilpacks, u can fix this easy if you have an a/m ecu by increasing the time they fire for. You could also try reducing the spark plug gap to 0.8mm ild take it to nissan and get it onto consult

The Solenoid simply wont work what is the gearbox solenoid supposed to do? are u talking about an OD gear?

Smell is normal, remove the glovebox and theres a panel which u can remove to clean aircon filter elements This wet patch is bad, either means your heater coil has rusted out or a hose is broken (b/n firewall and heater)/hose clamp needs tightening (Unless condesations is somehow running back down into your car). U can tie off your heater in the engine bay and loop it around or fix it properly. Im not sure if u can get replacement gear for these or one from a hobby shop to fit. I used a little glue and was able to build the gear back up, but it didnt last very long. If anyone manages to get a replacement (not 2nd hand) can u please let us know, I may make an plastic injection mould if not avail.

Checked your cas timing? have you been fiddling with your fuel/ignition maps? Death rattle is never good. Nock has a k too

Picture is not working for me, but most likely it will be used to change between maps/tunes i.e. Drag/strip or street etc.

Nope unless the gap creates a fair amount of turbulence - just noiser, more bad gasses...

www.importworkshop.com has the manuals If you go boost controller, get an electronic one. Mechanical ones are crap, boost generally falls off because they open up early. Jaycar has great EBC's that are cheap and very nice to use. Otherwise any of the Traders in the For Sale section sell good bits

Go MAP. Get a greddy pressure sensor or something