Jmaac

whats a sitc?

Ill give u 250 for the splitfires

give u 50 for non adj one

Stock OEM Remote Control Entry System To prevent someone else entering your vehicle with the remote i.e. lost/stolen, disengage the remote with the following: 1. Open all doors then lock them 2. Place key in the ignition (removal position) then in the space of 10 seconds pull the key from the removal postion and place in the ignition over 6 times. When this is achieved the buzzer will sound twice 3. Place key in the ACC position 4. Open all the doors Remote control will no longer open the vehicle (Battery type for these remotes is also Lithium CR1620 type)

Will be next to the relays, it does the blinker timing. Have you cut any of the wires? Have you tried fiddling with the stalk and checking the connections? Fuses?

are the manuals from both links the same?

dont put a lockbar in either

The clicking noise is from your Air Blend Servo motor (controls hot/cold mix). The gearteeth that control the flap have slipped off. It is really easy to fix, the only problem is removing the whole dash to get to it. Easiest way is to make sure the heat is maxed all the way up, i.e. slam the red button a million times before u start the car (can be on or off), wont make the sound - leave it like that and wont happen again

You'd be better off with two gaskets. Goo will take weeks to get it hard enough to be heat resistant. Usually melts or burns out - and its messy If you machined it flat you shouldnt even need a gasket as the materials are the same and will be running at the same temp If you pull it off yourself it would cost less than the goo to machine

Get a workshop manual if your unsure. The stuff above are some of the easiest mods you can do yourself. The boost controller will come with its own easy instructions aswell.

Checked all the injector plugs are on correctly/right order? timing?

If youve already got a 3" system just keep it, the amount of restriction on it will be neglible unless your running massive hp. Better yet gut it out and bolt it back into place

http://www.importworkshop.com/nissanskyline.html

http://www.skylinegts.co.uk/R32-Fuses.htm Hope that helps

Car covers are great. As discussed above, make sure you get an anti-static one. Generally as you pull them off/on the charge holds dirt/dust particles to the surface of the cover. This aint too good for it when you drag it on/over the car

Make sure u drain all the old water out of the block. There is a hole underneath exhaust manifold for this. Bleed the cooling system when you fill it. Near the plenum/manifold theres a bolt to syphon/remove the air bubble as you fill the system up. This air bubble usually prevents you from filling the cooling system to full capacity and ensures the top half of the head remains dry - bad!

If you go anything bigger than stock or made from a different material it may not run the best. Built into the ecu are temperature & temperature correction tables that have been setup for the stock radiator. Just means all the temperature readings may be a bit out hence leaner/richer mixtures etc.

Theoretically yes, but I dont seem to notice it after the cars started Think of it as a stepper motor that doesnt turn 360*. It isnt the gear teeth in the motor, its on an arm that moves backwards and forwards that controls the hot/cold air mix. The motor/gearset were talking about i think is called the blend servo motor

Yeah jiggle round some coat hanger wire, you may move it enough to pop the lock with the remote

If u have an aftermarket ecu u can increase the dwell times. This will fire your coilpacks for longer and ensure a good spark. Increasing it also reduces its life. You can also reduce the spark plug gap to 0.8mm to reduce misfire brought on by shite coilpacks

I think in the S2 R33's +onwards the stock oem location is in the boot. Usually to shift weight to the rear, make room for intake piping, bigger/forward facing plenums etc. Also makes amp wiring a little easier

Its hard for the fastners to slip on the mechanical control arms. I would say your gas system has developed a leak. Take it to aircon shop and get them to pressurise the system with coloured die to show u leak also check aircon fuses

Your flange is bent/warped. Machine it flat or use a much thicker gasket

Depends which series walbro pump but generally bosch units are better. If you put them side by side the bosch units are physically bigger. I've seen current/voltage vs flowrate comparisons and walbro's generally drop off and top end, unlike the bosch units

Most likely not the motor itself. Its actually mechanical as described above and its very common. This is the same part that makes that clicking sound on startup on other skylines. Gearteeth are just probably completely broken off rather than just a few. Have fun pulling out the dash If it has gas in it will get cold (actually the vaccum makes it cold nehow). To check compressor&compressor clutch operation start car, turn on ac and see if RPM increases