Jmaac

is the screeching like a grinding screech? i.e. starter solenoid not disengaging gear properly? if its screeching when your taking off your increasing the load on the belts hence slipping so i reckon its them

spray crc on all the belts and start it up. If its the belts they wont screech anymore then you'll know

Should be able to lookup the right battery out of the catalogue. If you want to go quality on that, get one with as many plates as you can (heaviest one)

Not relay but flasher unit?

This is a little out there but I had the exact same problem on another car. The globe had actually blown but the filement was still entangled and looked ok. As I went over bumps or bashed it there would be sufficient connection for the lights to come on for a bit, and then a few bumps later it would go off. Took a good few months to figure that one out

That is the right way but to get the lift pump (intank) to prime the lines between filter/tank

may just be the hose from the waterbottle not pushed on all the way. If u have a blockage they tend to push themselves off

Mine used to leak a little bit so I just ran a nice bead of silicone around the top of the rear taillights. Theres no seal there on mine and the rain tended to run down the back of it into the boot. Another thought, the rubber gasket between the boot and the spoiler usually dries out and deteriorates causing leaking (well did in my r31)

Depends on the state of the circuit, either naturally open or closed. As above you'll have to trace back the wires and look for any potential problems. Check the connections at the s/wheel, fusebox (inc. relay) and at the horn itself. Is it the stock oem s/wheel?

Picture aint working for me, but it sounds like the clutch master cylinder which is an easy fix. Two bolts fix it the to firewall, one bolt to back of clutch pedal in the pedal box (this ones fiddly), and one hydralic line to clutch slave cylinder - thats for an Rb30 anyhow. Bleeding the clutch afterwards will be the most fun part of the job. Paid $40 for mine, will be a bit more for a skyline

Battery conditioner will usually fix a reasonably new battery If your car is not going flat after starting it a few times or your lights etc. dont dim as you increase the load on the circuit then its not your alternator i.e. regulator, brushes, windings etc. 14v is within the normal op range I thought? There may be a current drain coming from somewhere else which will require you to look around the car with a multimeter to find the short. Not sure why you would measure voltage with an ohmeter (only measures resistance) unless you mean a multimeter which does the lot. That click is the horn relay. If your horn isnt working it may be associated with that. Check to make sure the horn is actually plugged in and that the correct size fuse is being used. If its already plugged in, un plug it (tape the wires so dont touch car) and see if it happens again...

Yeah make sure you havent wrecked that changing it over I wouldnt be driving it like that either

Preferably. Heard some people just cutting them out of the Al from coke cans

Selling the LED from your rear spoiler?

Thats why ATMO bov are useless. It dumps metered air, what do u think the ecu does when this goes missing?

Wouldnt be worth doing the upgrade without the VLT ecu and VLT injectors. You can chip an n/a ecu to run VLT injectors but you will have no knock sensor (ears should be good enough) - this is a much cheaper option than buying the above for 300. Ebay generally has them for 100... If you have a death rattle now then I wouldnt bother. Putting in a decomp. plate to lower the compression may also help here

U only need a relay for the remote switch. Piggyback second amp in parallel with the first one and ensure your running heavy gauge

Little more in it than that, but yeh name brand will give u better resale

Would you consider a swap for R32 GTR wheels with the wide offset (JJ) and cash?

Do u have a S2 Spoiler LED for sale?

Jaycar gear is great stuff. I would much rather buy a product that puts money into engineering it than companies like sony which spend millions on marketing, pretty pictures and plastic decorations on their products

Yep use a relay, you'll loose signal strngth just splicing into it

Go's to REMOTE on amp

What the bloke is saying is totally correct. You will need to run shielded RCA's and a noise filter - Jaycar stuff is good

Found this on a site somewhere, some people may find it helpful Airconditioning Diagnostic's Self-test diagnostic mode.. It is a six step process, although step six is not used for trouble diagnoses. Step 1. Self-diagnostic test. To enter diagnostic mode press the OFF button for more than five seconds within ten seconds of turning ignition from OFF to ON. Step 2. Sensor check. Step 2 is selected by pressing HOT switch (the red triangle) while in diagnostic mode. The microcomputer detects whether each sensor input signal is within correct parameters. The results are displayed on the screen. The sensor numbers are as follows: 20 - All is normal 21 - Outside air sensor 22 - Inside air sensor 23 - Water temperature sensor 24 - Intake temperature sensor 25 - Sunload sensor 26 - PBR 27 - Refrigerant temperature sensor This should tell you if any of your sensors are faulty. Step 3. Mode door position check. (This is probably not the cause of your problems but it is a nifty self check to play with). While in step 2, depress the HOT button again. This will operate the mode door actuator, and checks the whether the position detection switch is operating. Again the results are displayed on the display. The sensor numbers are as follows: 30: Normal 31: VENT 32: B/L (Bi level) 34: FOOT 35: DEFROST/FOOT 36: DEFROST Step 4: Actuator operation check. By pressing the HOT button while in Step 3, you can actually send a signal to check the operation of the actuator manually. Step 5: Sensor recognition check. Press the HOT switch again and a "5" will be indicated in the display section. If you press the "AMB" button in this status, the display will show the temperature sensed by each sensor. This will give you an indication also of which (if any) are faulty. Temperatures will be displayed in the following order: 5 -> Outside air temp -> Inside air temp -> Suction temp -> Refrigerant temp Obviously if any of these temps seem excessively different from actual temperatures you have a problem! Step 6: Calibration If you depress the fan switch during Step 5, you will go to Step 6 in which you can set the difference between the indicated temperature and sensed temperature. I found this very useful because when I got my car I found I had to set the inside temp to around 22 to feel comfortable even though I knew it was probably more like 20. While in Step 6 press the HOT or COLD buttons to change the display by plus or minus 3 degrees in .5 degree increments.