Jmaac

If its the S2 r33 with the battery in the boot. To keep it in RWC or Safety Certified you need a dry cell battery or a wet one with an external vent (run hose/vent through hole in boot pan)

Its not actually the motor, its like the gear teeth so its even simpler and cheaper to fix (dont u just hate that). Its just the dash thats the hard bit - you'll need half a day just to pull it out. There are a few links to tutorials on how to take it out. Do a search, but not long ago someone had the proper name and part number for the bit Just make sure the temperature is maxed to hot (yes u can press the button whilst its off) before u start it up and u shouldnt be able to here it

Go Rb26dett, no fiddling then and you'll have enuough left over to get someone to fit it

You'll have to run a piggyback 4 that setup. Go greddy EMU - cheap & easy 2 install & tune

Borrow a switch from your old's car and try that maybe??

Hey Ammon, With the bonnet up, follow the cable through the firewall. Follow it towards the latch. Before you hit the latch there should be a point where the cable is fixed to the car with a bolt and a small clamp. Loosen this and pull the cable back up to the firewall so the cable is nice and tight/taught and retighten the bolt. You dont adjust it from inside the car, I also believe you cannot adjust the bonnet striker (too much:). You may be able to try loosening these bolts and retightening to move the bracket a few mm also (only needed if its bent)

Is it just when its cold? Ive heard unless its really well/extensively tuned, alot of cars with PFCs have a poor cold idle which is one of the reasons why people wish to retain original ecu and have it chipped (to keep cold tune) or add a piggyback

Actual "AFM cleaner" from Bensons works a treat too

Big set of stilsons or multigrips will get it off easy

Actually test the switches themselves with a multimeter, dont just press them in/out and assume there ok

Yep, as above, that noise is the broken gears in the aircon position servo motor sliding over each other With the aircon off, just press the red/hot up button forever until you think its at the 28max and it wont happen until outside temp goes above it To access the filter, you have to remove the glovebox. To the right of that theres a panel that you can remove and the aircon filters will just fall out. Order replacements from Japan or just clean using compressed air. Will also get rid of the aircon stink - mine were pitch black

Got the right plugs in?

As above, try a good quality EBC with a stepper motor that has great resolution, this will prevent the wastegate from opening too early. Jaycar units are good & cheap

Definately a tuning problem, youve increased the airflow/density accross the board Yes the stock ECU has room to move; adding a pod or slightly bigger FMIC is ok, but the combination of the two coupled with higher boost pressures is just crazy- especially if you expect it to work hunky dory Get a SAFC2, PFC, or EMU

I'ld go the JJR unit (rhs one), the split pipe should be plumbed in at least 18" back

coolant temperature sensor will also cause bad fuel economy

Nope, just clean the ends on all the heavy gauge earth leads, or maybe add another one from supercheap

If it didnt fail on the test bench then the only other part that can fail is the regulator $40-80 One from a hitachi on a VL would work

550, same as driver 500, passenger

Ask them for a compressed fiber gasket and cut it out from that

Really hot water (tiny bit of soap). You have a bad earth somewhere, wont make anything rust but can discolor it.

1: http://ecu2.forumwise.com/ecu2-forum-2.html or http://www.tangentrix.com/forums/viewforum...d95efabe0c543d8 2: As above otherwise just pm me. I have a few different maps for varying AFM and INJ sizes, both GTST and GTR, r32 & r33 3: EBay, or do it yourself - dont worry what people say this stuff is pretty easy; its just peoples lack of tuning experience and them generally holding back on this info that makes it difficult. You just need an EPROM reader/writer, EPROM socket, blank EPROM's or emulator for realtime tuning and just copy the image accross. The money you save doing it yourself offsets the cost of this equiptment not to mention you can now do mates cars. Your lucky the R32 is a direct desolder/resolder whereas the R33 requires a seperate daughterboard to make it fit. Dr Drift mentioned I think mentioned somewhere that these are now easily available at a reasonable price?

Thats covered everywhere, search? An actuator rod is only used in integral type wastegates? Yes u can use the Rb20 actuator on Rb25 turbo to run higher boost

Chuckie's right, its the application of heat that will ultimately kill the welds. A manifold would benefit from being heat treated because it relieves any residual stresses created in the heat affected zone (HAZ) by the welding itself and thus making it less brittle. There are better&cheaper ways to prevent common cracking, i.e. elongate the bolt holes in pairs, starting at d, d + 0.06", d + 0.12" etc. This will allow the manifold to flex/expand whilst maintaining a seal, taking any strain off the welds themselves which is especially important for s/steel and less important for DI. Go at least 413 s/s as thick as you can get it. DI is heaps better but its costly mainly because of the cost of tooling

Sounds like the car is in R&R mode, you'll need to reset the ECU and also find the problem causing it. Try an ECU diagnostic that'll tell you which sensors are gone. (O2 is quite common for this)