Jmaac

That is the induction noise going through your pod (yes air being sucked in) (noise is created by the restriction of filter, adding the two will half the restriction of the intake and thus noise) There are heaps of ways to measure the efficiency of your cooler, start by measuring inlet and outlet temperatures as discussed above using a thermocouple or a pyrometer (that laser thingy:) 1 - (%final - initial)/initial = cooler efficiency And yes they can be cleaned, do a search on here but im assuming you just pour some particular type of evaporative alcohol inside, swirl and poor out i.e. kero (heaps of black road grime should come out) Actually if you think about it, the denser air charge (long story short) will cause the turbo to spin faster, air is inducted through the impellor at a faster rate so the pitch will change

I believe GTST is 4.5, GTR is 4.7 and N1 is 5.1L I wouldnt try the no coolant trick, alloy head is far too sensitive for that. Just dont drive it too hard for the first few klms so oil builds up on the new seals

One of the holes wont line up but it can be elongated to fit. The twincam pump on the Rb25det has a higher flowing impellor/the same as the one used in the Rb30det. The N/a unit wont flow as much, but is ok if your not using it for racing. N1 pumps have a slightly different design which prevents cavitation at higher rpm

If you dont know this you really shouldnt be doing the work yourself

Try changing the brushes yourself first its heaps easy, there like 3$ and usually the cause of most alternator failure (or reg). Would one from a VL work? I got the same b/s about my hitachi and just replaced it with an old bosch unit (apparently bosch parts are much cheaper/easier to come by)

Yes the light will stay on, and a lockbar will only hold the rear wheels in a straight line. It will not correct the rest of the steering geometry in the rear

Yep, but there heaps stronger than original bolts because net strain on threads is almost zero

r33 ecu just needs a daughterboard soldered to it to fit the rom/emulator r32 can be rechipped without an additional daughterboard and can be made to work in an r33 i.e. switch 2 inj wires and add the r33 vq maps etc. - feedback loops are all crazy but?

stock ecu has provision for slight changes so I wouldnt bother unless you added a pod as well etc.

Got the dimensions of your cardboard cutouts handy?

r32, r33, r34, astra convertable and one slow ass lancer on a cruise in Tamborine mountains tooooo good for the thumbs up

Why would you want to do that? Catch can still fits - I like saving fuel not wasting it... most skylines havent even done 100,000klms, theyre even replaced/installed as part of complaincing when theyre imported so most are new anyhow

When you fill the radiator, a big air bubble gets trapped in the top of the alloy head. This means that the head, which is very sensitive to heat changes, has less water circulating around it thus less heat is being removed. W/out doing it you may find the car overheats alot easier/warps heads etc. This happens because the radiator is sitting at the wrong height. I know the Rb30's had two bleed screws, one near the water temp sensor and one ontop of the plenum. Head cracking from air being trapped is very common in VL's and they tried remedying it by dropping the s2 Vl frontend and inch i believe (if anyone noticed the inch difference between s1 + s2 front bumpers)

As above, S1 R33, R32 dont have built in ignitors like S2 R33

New seals will also leak sometimes until they seat properly i.e. rocker gaskets etc. but thats probably far off. Dont over fill her either Try what the guys said, soak your PCV valve in some thinners/degreaser and shake her until it moves freely. Should relieve any pressure off the seals O/wise after preparing the gasket surface again, use plenty of gasket gooooooooooo You could always put oil glue in there (stopleak crap) but then your just asking for trouble

As jeff said, it sounds like your earth isnt too good then

Check to see if they're full of water Are both going or just the one? May need to piggyback one off the other. Also check its earth... o/wise the easiest way is just to run some new wires Does the horn have a fuse?

Yep as above, using a multimeter is the most reliable way to tell. Its also the easiest.

It'll be fine, if its been sitting for years with no inhibitor you might have some problems elsewhere but not the block itself (i.e. thermostat spring, w/pump bearings etc.) it'll eat the alloy head but . There are no jets that will get blocked, the passages/galleries are huge anyways however its probably not too good for an old radiator full of muck. Driving around now after its been cleaned should dislodge anything thats been left behind Just flush the block properly (bolt under exhaust manifold) with water, and either pressure flush (~30 - 40$) or reverse flush the radiator with a hose and fill with distilled water and some glycol inhibitor

Yep, timing b/n gear changes wont be too good but

Thanks mate, the reason why I ask is that I have a full auto timer and the auto function doesnt work and I noticed yours was earthed to the ecu ground rather than the chassis so I might give that a try

Thanks, wasn't any particular motor, was just wondering if the increased cylinder fill/inc. temps made much (if any) difference to boosted performance... Thanks for the help guys

Caught driving whilst suspended is pretty much an instant jail term in vic (1 month?), caught driving with a cancelled license is just a $550 fine Try and confuse the copper into giving you the second one... Also wont go on your record so judge wont know when you reapply for it (just an infringement)

Is this a full automatic timer and thus why that wire goes to ECU ground rather than a chassis ground?

I think sards need a different oring to fit