Jmaac

So detonation may become a problem in some instances which would make sense- i like the sound of increasing cylinder capacity by upto 5% but Good question, im interested in this one too

Hmm Matty thats what I was wondering, so if i did block it off it would fill the cylinder better i.e. exhaust gas that wont burn will not occupy unnecessary cylinder volume, and thus improve potential charge mixtures/burn efficiencies/thermal expansion? and slightly faster spool times because of increased heat/exh. gas flow??? So it could potentially improve cruise economy/power? I assume this is the energy robbed by the engine by the pollution gear people talk about?

Yes you can bleed off the air like that. Theres a tube with a restrictor in it already somewhere - i believe it has a yellow dot on it to identify. Change the size of the restrictor or even just prick small holes in it with a hot needle until you achieve your required boost. you can also cut the solenoid arm in half, thread it, add a threaded sleeve to rejoin it, hence giving you full adjustment you can use the stiffer spring from an r32 and run the slightly higher boost remove the spring, drill a hole in the top and weld a nut to it, insert a bolt and fit a spring seat to the otherside. This will allow you to adjust spring pre-tension, thus giving you full adjustment All these retain the factory setup

I was wondering if anyone's ever removed the EGR valve and blocked its exhaust/intake ports to stop exhaust gasses entering the intake and improving things like fuel vaporisation and burn efficiency? Apparently upto 4% of exhaust gasses can pass through at any one time... (dyno results anyone???) Im assuming charge temperatures would also go up? I have heard of people blocking the vaccum (i.e. ballbearing) to the EGR to stop it from working but apparently exhaust gasses can still circulate if the spring gate is left open. It also gives the appearance that its not working correctly for those RWCs/pink slips etc. A small welsch plug would fit the round exhaust port nicely in the intake manifold and with the EGR valve put back on it would look like its operating normally but wouldnt be 'hampering' the engines performance? Thoughts?

You can freeze them beforehand to shrink them down a little. This way you can get them in easy and make sure that there sitting nicely before it expands to an interference fit. Similar to valve stem guides Doctor30 try blocking off the rest of the cooling passage and vaccum it towards the opening, otherwise force some compressed air in there or maybe a magenetic part grabber (not sure what material the stock ones are made of). If your game stick your finger in there crank the motor and try and grab it whilst it wooshes past fun fun fun (put the water back in of course) Might even float to the opening? Dont you just hate it when things never go right? especially when it seems easy or so simple... ahh life!

Sounds like it was just the alt. regulator and/or brushes... they trick you into buying a whole new one? Your windings would of been fine for a car so young Your lights wont dim if you rev it. They will dim if you dont cruiser

As above, could be a faulty coolant temp sensor (tells the ecu to run rich until the car is warm) Another possibly is check your brake drag (jack car up and spin wheels freely). Handbrake might of dropped a spring or maybe even ceased a caliper piston??? Both happened to my VL

He's full of crap, its giving no outputs because you havent given it an input signal on the handbrake wire. I had the same problem, took me ages to wire the thing in because I didnt have any installation instructions. If yours just plugs into the ignition harness, make sure the spare black wire is earthed (if you have a variable resistor pod on the back) or on the ECU ground wire (if theres no resistor on the back). If it doesnt plug into the harness, then wire it. Connect the spare brown wire to the handbrake switch or just earth it (this is why yours isnt working) o/wise it wont time down and it will just switch off. If your car has the resistor on back, run engine at 3500-4000rpm for a few minutes in full auto mode, if the timer doesnt go up, rotate the resistor one increment and try again until it does. TT's are just really,really simple plc/gate circuits. Very hard for them to die in such a nice happy environment

go MAP if your not going to take long drives that vary in altitude much o/wise go MAF problem with maps is that the ecu takes a base reading of the manifold pressure at startup to take an atmospheric datum and its tunes are based on that. If your going on long drives up a few mountains and havent turned your car off since starting it your car will soon start playing silly buggers. Some notice some dont

CJ ive got one of those basic Pivot all-in-one turbo timer copies (Racing boy, Super Mini/Baby Timers etc.), what exactly is your problem with it?

led from rear spoiler? pm me

Get an old car/mbike/pushie inner tube tyre and cut it to fit

emu marco

Yep, it shouldnt be the gearbox internals, just something in the bell housing you'd hope. Probably best to seperate the gearbox and the motor and have a peek inside. My mate had a badly scored clutch that did similar things

Have you got that plate on that prevents the heat coming up from around the gearstick surround?

1000 bucks and a saturday if u do it yourself. Its real easy mate, its not like u have to unplug a sh!tload of wires or have to try and make it start Couple of bolts & some heavy lifting and its done Tripple that for a mechanic Im sure theres heaps of people on here who can do it

Sedan and Coupe tailshafts are different lengths. Deal with as above Everything from R31 will fit an R31GTS I believe you can also retain your original pedal box. It has provision for the two manual pedals, provided you remove the auto brake pedal first. Make sure you use a manual ECU and not the Auto. Auto will work but it'll drive like a pig every time you put the clutch in Dont forget to join the neutral start relay wires (purple) near the battery On another note, whilst youve got the master & slave cylinders out put a seal kit through them. Takes 5$ and 5mins each and can save you heaps of time later down the track

Lucky, I was thinking that stupid circlip thing on the clutch fork

Yeah like said above, that noise with your clutch in is your throw out bearing Its inevitable, your going to have to seperate the two to replace the bearing but it soulds like your clutch may of let go, which would explain the vibrations (maybe tramp/violet grabbing also). Like your mechanic said you may have also warped the flywheel and it needs machining.

Yes they do go together and work well

Well as soon as u put the second set of leads in your drawing a bigger current... Are your speakers earthed to the chassis at all? Could it be just the lead? I dont think an inline noise filter will help. Get some expensive shielded wires and that should solve the problem

That will give you lounder, deeper bass to rear of car (lower freq. range/const) Punchier would face front of car (higher freq./deconst) Think wave formation and nodal constructive/destructive interferance Put that plate back in, its there to strengthen the body and is needed for RWC. Shouldnt make too much of a difference

Does it have an illumination wire? some units have these to plug into old chool rheostat switches... i.e. that change the illumination of all the dash lights etc.

U measure it all up and ill draw/model it

If u have a GPS, you can add current camera locations as points of interest from this site... http://www.ozpoi.com/Safety_Cameras.html Save those $$ for skylines boys This may also help "Some States publish the locations of fixed speed cameras, red light cameras, and the common locations of mobile speed cameras." http://www.trafficlaw.com.au/speed_camera_locations.html