Jmaac

Yes they work down here. A mate sent one from the US to his dad (hes always on the road) and ive seen it work personally quite well. Hes saved heaps... With the exchange rates its also much cheaper buying them from the US. More than double here... Try this site, it'll give u the run down on AUS laws, and comparisons between the best RD's for here. The US bell sti works better than the AUS bell sti apparently mate. I would personally install the valentine becuause its permanent and u can hide it. The bell is good cos u can move it b/n cars easy or just flog it out the window if ure scared of being caught http://www.delonixradar.com.au/queensland/ Yes the bell sti cant be detected by new Stalcar RDD's

Like heller said? Why bother????

This might be a bit off but could your battery be dying or too small as it seems to only be a problem when your cars starting? If your battery cant hold enough charge/supply enough current during the cranking process this would result in the poor/reduced fuel pressure delivery during intitial stages of priming the fuel lines etc. Check the voltage over the fuel pump when cranking, the fuel pressure and go from there

Im not sure what a new is for an rb26 but your injectors will only fire as you crank the engine I cant see your pics, whats the Rb26 going into???

Sounds like your coilpacks are on theyre way out (ignition modules), no amount of spray will fix them Thats just your aac hunting for a stable idle/compensating for increased load?? Do an ECU diagnostic before you bother doing anything else just to check your sensors such as your o2 etc, and Im not sure on this, but also check cooler piping for a boost leak cos thats where your turbo is building boost.

I believe your coolant temp sensor is also responsible for fuel economy i.e. on coldstarts the ecu will run richer than normal???? Common problem in Rb30's re. fuel economy aparently

Clean and check all connectors to sensors, i.e hicas computer, speed signal wire, steeringwheel angle sensor etc. The diagnostic thing is funny, after heaps of badly written tutorials and manuals I finally got it to work. If your light is flashing, you actually need to get it out of diagnostic mode first before you can reset it. If you do it correctly the light should flash at a slightly slower rate (watch closely!!) then do the reset. If its the stock ECU might aswell reset it to eleminate any problems. Learns fuel mixtures faster R32 is definately hydralic, R33 electric A lockbar isnt a good fix. It only fix's a small part of the problem i.e. that being the rear wheels in a straight line, what about the other angles?

Cant you just elongate the hole a little/alot so you can get the bolt in? at least then you can put a bearing load on that portion of the gasket. I wouldnt go much higher than recommended torques as you could possibly damage/warp the pump sealing faces...? Make sure you seal around the gasket and the inside of the bolt holes with gasket goo and u should be fine - you want a high temp, hard drying type Watch your water temps. as there are impellor differences between the SOHC and the DOHC. DOHC has an improved, higher flowing, design that reduces cavitation

arnt the r32 and r33 pinouts different?

This ones going in at the start of Jan M1 between the Birdwood Road overpass and the Usher Road overpass at Tarragindi (Tarragindi off-ramp), Brisbane's southside

Sorry about the confusion, I thought they were meant to have conductor paste/silicone underneath like ignition modules/pc cpu's etc. The paste acts like a conducter/heat exchange and helps draw heat away from your coil packs preventing premature failure. Im sure ive seen someone put silcone on them, insulation maybe? my mistake...

As everyone says the batterys dead, if you leave them flat for a while the wont retain there charge

Shouldnt you be putting that special silcone underneath?

got the led from the rear spoiler left?

Damn a little too late

Get an el'cheapo ebay catch can You could also try cleaning pcv valve, might be stuck all the way open...??

Sounds like the ignition module. Everything will test ok, but the car will usually die when it gets hot or it wont start after driving until its cooled. Pretty common in older RB motors apparently

Just ask for a reco kit from supercheap etc. there a few dollars

Open the window and stick a coat hanger in there and try and pull on it

Get a new belt, could be just dry and old. Depends on the load on the vehicles circuit, cant imagine why the non turbo is higher but you can burn out the voltage regulator... eventually (I really wouldnt worry it) maybe even your coilpacks? Shouldnt be an issue until you turn everything on, i.e. stereo, air con, headlights etc. even then you can measure the load accross the battery terminals to make sure its ok. if anything your lights may dim every time your sub is kicking etc. maybe even stall...

Do a search on here there are a few tutorials. Remove the glovebox, and on the righthand side theres a panel you can remove. Behind this there are two filter elements - usually black from sitting in traffic jams in japan, remove and replace. Some people clean them carefully with compressed air, some importers sell them new

U need a whole new cable Or just take it to any engineering/fabrication place

Im thinking it could be your CAS. If it is a sensor you'll save yourself a crapload of money doing the ECU diagnostic which will tell you which one broken. Sensors are usually pretty cheap and easy to replace. O2 Sensors seem to be going left right and centre at the moment. $300 for new Z32 afm under $100 for 2nd hand stockie

I was thinking this aswell, but that body strengthening plate i believe is only removable on R32's???

As everyones said above, increased RPM is your engine compensating for load on p/steering pump noise behind dash are the plastic runners that the air conditioning vents turn on/off with. It is extremely common in skylines, they come apart. Whole dash to come out to fix - not really worth it. If you want it to stop, even with the A/C off, slam the red button a few times or direct the air in from outside...