Jmaac

Its really easy, just run two wires from your RHR drivers light, black + red If your car came with 3 stop lights you will req. them for rwc. Im pretty sure relocating it to rear window is acceptable - grab one off an old magna or something, $5 Ill buy your old LED if you've still got it.

That vaccum is normal, just differential pressure from fuel expanding/contracting with temperature and being pumped from the system by your fuel pump

Take it back, u didnt pay 1800 for more problems. Exactly what Dave said

Stiffer springs are really needed for these cams. Dont worry about port and polish, cleanup & deburr will do just fine. Not sure about springs but you could always upgrade to solid lifters if u have the spare $$

drive off boost

Its just a cheap method for not having to upgrade your AFM but you will need the a/m hardware to get it going in the first place. I believe it can be done with a cheaper SAFC2 Having the two pod pipes halves the restriction through the afm intake hence you can double its potential airflow (potentially halving its full flow resolution) and still metre the correct air. Ok in simple terms. Driving down road with one AFM, flowing enough air to register +1v. Now driving down with two, you know you have twice the airflow at +1v. Retune to suit - simple! pod-------afm------========== tb pod-----------------'

z32 for a rb25 or get greddy emu and pressure harness - no afm = no probs

http://www.emanageforums.com/ has info on them Any decent tuner will have them, Greddy supplier etc. Try the traders section on here About 500$ for computer, another 300$ for pnp looms etc. Power FC is double that, and no longer made anymore I think that also includes pressure switch, so you can throw away your AFM and save money on that upgrade, you dont need it anymore

It would of been your bov, youve just stabilised the MAF (benefit of having a/m ecu)

Very popular in Supras and just starting to become so in Rb25det Skylines since the PFC's ceased to be made, theyre also half the price and you dont need a hand controller to tune them. There excellent, they can do pretty much everything i.e. you can mix and match presets to diff. cars i.e. Z32 AFM on WRX etc. Injectors etc. and you can also tune it yourself with a laptop. If you get the pressure switch, you dont even need an AFM. Updates are firmware flashes so upgrades are free, and theyre programmable i.e. there are programs out there already on it that will do an auto-tune This will also correct your problem with ATMO BOV. Dont quote me to this, but I believe the only stupid restriction is upto 50% larger injectors i.e. upto 550-580ccs (good for 300+rwkw easy)

Could be a number of things With that HP your clutch should slip at high rpm. If its rooted replace it o/wise just get a heavier p/plate. i.e. clutch fork stuck on something, retaining spring fallen out, piston in the master cylinder or slave assembly jammed? Follow the clutch line down the gearbox, it screws into your Clutch slave cylinder. There are two bolts holding that on, unbolt and get a friend to step on the clutch and see if the piston moves in and out freely. If it doesnt, then pull it apart and inspect (a rebuilt kit is $7) so doesnt hurt to try first. If its fine, then its your master cylinder assembly. That can be reco'd aswell but just as cheap/easy to get s/hand on off ebay. If thats not it you'll need to pull the gearbox out for a little spring loaded piece of wire - the sh^%s!

Could be a number of things With that HP your clutch should slip at high rpm. If its rooted replace it o/wise just get a heavier p/plate. i.e. clutch fork stuck on something, retaining spring fallen out, piston in the master cylinder or slave assembly jammed? Follow the clutch line down the gearbox, it screws into your Clutch slave cylinder. There are two bolts holding that on, unbolt and get a friend to step on the clutch and see if the piston moves in and out freely. If it doesnt, then pull it apart and inspect (a rebuilt kit is $7) so doesnt hurt to try first. If its fine, then its your master cylinder assembly. That can be reco'd aswell but just as cheap/easy to get s/hand on off ebay. If thats not it you'll need to pull the gearbox out for a little spring loaded piece of wire - the sh^%s!

Inlet My temp sits about 1/3 way Temperature may be different because of the % of glycol in your new coolant, clutch on the fan etc. You may of also poored water on the thermo fan switch which usually shorts them and renders them useless, replace switch not whol fan if thats the case I think theres also one more bleed valve ontop of the plenum, there are 2 on the Rb30

Yeah just pull the input shaft out of an Rb30 auto box, or even saw it off

You may find the wire runs to your dash and not ecu

Occasional backfire could be from a number of things, TPS, atmo BOVS, coolers etc. but firstly look at the timing/tune. Crap fuel shouldnt cause a backfire just a more spontaneous combustion rather than top/down?? The only benefit you'll get from resetting the ecu (apart from resetting other computers) is that the fuel mixtures are more aggressively tuned (i.e. first tune to suit first run), and that benefit will only be realised if you keep using the same blend of fuel i.e. BP Ultimate, Shell Optimax etc. all the time. Ive been told that this occurs dynamically (real time) aswell but it is far less aggressive i.e. tune happens over weeks rather than minutes Just keep using the same fuel and your ecu will reset itself automatically at some stage. Not sure about the diagram above but the R32 and 33 pinouts are different. Just unplug battery +ve and hit the brake pedal to remove residual - this will also work with most other cars. An automatic shop tried to charge me 150$ to reset the Auto ECU in a magna doing the same thing, Nissan charge $70 for an ECU reset also, 120$ for a reset & a consult - ridiculous!!

If your AFM meter is maxing out, there are ways to bypass around it and still meter the correct airflow by having two inlets so it would come in handy then. Think instructions are somewhere on zoom website

Keep it if youve got a pod, you'll need to change it over for RWC

I dont have an R34 so I cant help you but if you can grab a multimeter and do some probing its real easy

Dont quote me but it kinda sounds like your CAS is dying??

greddy emu

Thats your car going into R&R mode (limp mode) so you can drive it home without detonating the engine. You'll need to reset the ECU and do a self-test diagnostic, this will tell u whats broken i.e. as above 02 sensor etc. I believe

You need an aftermarket ECU that will read the Z32 or Q45 AFM. You dont need the complete harness, you just need to make sure you get the plug with it so that u can change it over with the old one in your engine bay. Z32 AFM has a higher resolution (i.e. can read a bigger/finer spectrum/range of voltages) and the Q45 has an even bigger ID (100mm?) but the res. is not so good not to mention trying to get such a big afm to idle properly.

I like HICAS, if you understand it then it works to your benefit Dont ya just love a snapping o/take...

It could be the HICAS getting confused but if its always to the left then thats not the problem, as above check suspension bushes. Do u have an active lsd?