Jmaac

I was thinking about this the other day, pull the trim off and where the skin meets the door shell spray some deadner in the gap or that gooey stuff that prevents the sound of metal on metal that the panel beater should of put in there. That may be that annoying sound

Try above, you may just find it has a million twists in it

Could be many things like cas, plug leads etc. Do the coilpacks you have support the boost your running? Do you have an a/market ecu? Have you run a self test diagnosis?

Anyone know if you can just press fit your own bearing and impellor into the old housing/rb30?

Did it just start happening out of the blue or did you add a fmic,inj,atmo bov,q45/z32 afm and expect it to work ok without a/m ecu? Have you got your coil wires mixed up?

I think there like 12$ from global auto spares

Yeah you'll have to do an srs airbag reset after changing the s/wheels over. If its a/market make sure it has an airbag (not rwc if youve removed it) Follow the link above, I didnt get this one to work, but another variation of it did found on here.

Weld your old sump plug in and drill and tap a small dia bolt hole into the back of it. Thats if its quite large, i actually havent looked yet so not sure. O/wise as above get a helicoil kit from bunnings and helicoil it if theres enough meat. Not sure about having to go oversize, helicoil drills out oversize and the helicoil/thread brings it back down to original????

As long as the auto ecu is from a turbo R33 it will run. As above, the auto ecu retards timing between gear changes so it will feel funny when changing. Is a quick fix if your planning on selling it o/wise just get a greddy emu

I would get the mines ECU retuned to suit Aus octane levels if it was a fresh import, o/wise isnt the impedance of the GTR injectors different to the GTST? Better yet get a greddy emu

It seems to be a common problem. Alot of people on here just leave it or just replace it with one from a wrecked skyline. As its broken already I would pull it apart myself and have a look - wouldnt hurt, you may just find its a loose contact or similar

Maybe the motor has just come off the runners? or its jammed up and running over the top? You'll have to check the switches in the door with a multimeter and I think its an orange wire (r32) on the handbrake

Wouldnt be fuel pump electrics would it (Pic1)?

Damn I just melted mine putting it in the oven to prise away that glue I was told about. Oh yea theres no glue Can u make out the colored stripes on the resistor?

Sounds like your mixtures were out and the cars gone into limp mode to try make it through the rest of the day. Should of got it tuned properly ages ago... Mate your cars driving crap because of the style of BOV you've got. Excess air is vented to the atmosphere and not back into the engine (i.e. plumbback). The ECU has measured the amount of air coming into the system through the AFM and is ready to control the a/f ratios but as the excess air is simply vented out of the closed loop the ECU has simply lost it and mixtures are all over the place and the ECU is trying to compensate all over the place

Resetting the ECU lets the computer retune to suit the fuel mixtures your running (depends on fuel & quality/location etc.). Your ECU will do this/reset itself automatically after 50 starts or so anyway...

dont quote me but i think the pickup would be in the deepest part of the sump so it looks like u may be fine

RB30ET pumps are different to the RB30E, they have a slightly larger impellor and a different blade design to prevent cavitation. I believe the Rb25 uses the same impellor. I would definately use an Rb30et pump on an rb25 not n/a

i think its u're valve springs

yea gasket goo

hehe yea, u will have to drill out factory spot welds and reweld it up when done, but pointless unless its got a big ding in it

Wont help, you'll have to modify the s/wheel to make it work

Mafia is it reliable at 20psi i.e. no boost leak? i was thinking about this the other day atmo bov's give us all a bad name and generally reduce overall performance i.e. dumped air is usually 'lost' (not metered by ecu) causing running/stalling issues. just use the stock one that actually works well i.e. plumbed into compressor side

Any car place like Autobarn, you just want a HICAS compatable boss to suit R33, i think about $70 or something. Its the big round thing your steering wheel bolts to and then u bolt that to the car, two plastic tabs will sit inside it if they havent been broken off. It measures the turn angle of the steering wheel used during HICAS calcs on the R33. R32 is hydraulic on the other hand. Some people also cut the speed signal wire so the ECU doesnt speed limit the car to 180kph, this will also cause your HICAS to stuff up (used in calcs). Has anyone tried pulling out the hicas sensors and cleaning the dust off? If its a/market it could be slightly out of tolerance also???

Not necessarily, heaps of imports have a/market ecu's installed. Would need a photo to tell I know on some RB(30)e motors with the later ecu that they have a similar hole that looks like theres nothing in there, but the screw is actually right down inside rather than sticking out near surface. Have heard of internals being switched over to keep factory ecu box to look stock for rwc also