Jmaac

nope she should still run ok (compression ratios just different, weaker g/box, fuel reg? different etc.) I know u said the fuel pump is working but did u check the voltage and/or fuel pressure? Check the timing also Even though your getting spark from the CAS it might still be no good. Is the spark regular or irregular? have u checked its internal resistance (think procedure is in the book). Check plug voltages also Sounds like u may have a bad short in your wiring loom if anything or killed the CAS Do you know where the wiring was roughly running to under the dash? Was it just hooked to the HICAS light/fusebox?? How many wires etc.????

use small oxy to heat bolt, or add heat by welding to the top of it

Use the hydralic method as above, works great. If its stubbon, drill a whole right through it and crack ot off or use a die grinder

Theoretically a little bit, but neglible in your case. Resonators just change/shift the sound of your exhaust system (natural resonance due to size and shape of exhaust system) to another frequency. Some times much quieter, or sometimes making it sound like a hyundi excel with a 6" paint tin stuck on the back

I wouldnt worry about it that close, theres usually a tolerance allowed for machines such as these i.e. as a result of other noise interferance, position when taken (wave patterns/nodes cancelling in/out), plus more. I would say +/-5% easy which would make your exhaust comply with EPA Otherwise, stick some steel wool in there, it will deaden the sound enough to pass a epa test and will burn out after about a week. Doesnt harm exhaust at all..... o/wise goto motorbike shop and get internal fibreglass baffle to suit 2 stroke muffler and stuff that in there (you'll have to dig that out cos it wont burn like s/wool) Unfortunately if you wrap the exhaust you'll just force more noise out the back straight into the device (it will make it quieter in the car for you) only way to quieten it is improving the internal baffle (increases turbulence) hence above. Alternatively you may be able to buy/fabricate a restrictor for your muffler. These fit into the tip and increase backpressure at the outlet causing the sound to bounce back into the muffler, in turn cancelling some frequencies and disapating more noise through the baffle all these methods will increase your backpressure obviously and decrease your peformance at high rpm.

have u upgraded injectors? got an a/m ecu thats been tuned for the setup?

shot peen the stock rb30 rods should be ok

same thing, balance and blueprint (to design spec). Allows your engine to rev higher and longer, or as a safety factor for high rpm turbo cars etc.

engine mods?

Sounds like it aint your hicas, but your alarm system playing up and the light is coming up as a result of the power down/engine kill. If its an R33 then thats why your hearing the clicking sound in the boot (alarm relays) It could also be just a coincidence as a result of something else or poor wiring into the hicas system if u have an a/market steering wheel without a hicas boss then the light will show up if u have a r32, i think its this light that also incidcates low hydralic fluid (for hicas) try the diagnostic when you know theres no problem to try and narrow it down HICAS Diagnostics What is HICAS? And do I have it? Good question. HICAS is Nissan’s version of four wheel steering. It is an acronym for High Capacity Actively Controlled Suspension. Unlike other Japanese car manufacturers 4WS (eg Honda’s system) HICAS never exceeds +/- 1°. It is designed for high speed response rather than parking manoeuvres. The system is electro-hydraulic - the ECU in the boot directs a hydraulic actuator at the rear axle to steer the rear wheels using the rearmost suspension links. The result is usually no more than 0.4° of movement. HICAS gives a touch of counter steer before settling with the rear wheel pointing the same way as the front. (Maybe this explains why my Skyline feels so loose on high-speed gravel...) This results in sharp turn-in, and enhanced stability at medium to high speeds. Anyway, have a crawl under the rear of your Skyline and have a look. After following the description in the paragraph above and if it looks like the picture below, you have HICAS. NB: The R33 series has an electronic actuator, it looks slightly different. Procedure: Switch ingition off, transmission in neutral or auto in Park. Start engine Very quickly (with a couple of seconds), turn the steering wheel left and right about 20 degrees from centre five times, and then pump the brakes five times, then press the brake pedal once more - this will enter diagnostic mode. Drive forwards or backwards about 5 metres at a speed less than 10k/ph, this will enter full diagnostic mode. The HICAS light in the instrument cluster will be flashing quickly (for normal) or will flash a code indicating any problems. Long flash = first digit, short flash = second digit. Diagnostics will return to normal after five minutes, or any speed over 10k/ph, or ingnition is turned off. HICAS 1990-1993 (seems OK for '89 as well) 1 HICAS solenoid right hand 2 HICAS solenoid left hand 3 Cut off valve 4 Power steering solinoid 5 Vehicle speed sensor 6 Steering angle sensor 7 Neutral position sensor 8 (Auto) Parking brake sensor, (Manual) Clutch sensor 9 (Auto) Inhibitor switch, (Manual) Neutral sensor HICAS 1994-1999 11 HICAS control unit 12 HICAS motor power supply not present 13 HICAS motor output not present 21 Vehicle speed sensor not present 22 Steering angle sensor not present 23 Steering angle sensor neutral or not present 24 Rear main sensor input not present 25 Rear sub sensor input not present 31 Parking brake sensor input not present 32 (Auto) Inhibititor switch input not present (Manual) Neutral switch input not present 32 Engine speed signal not present --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

oh why did you have to say that, now i have to find myself a new gtr!

Make sure the speed signal wire isnt cut also, HICAS uses it. Use your a/m ECU to get rid of the speed cut

Just dload & print the manual and give it a shot, if anything you'll loose a weekend and 230$ for a cylinder head service and gasket if you get it wrong. You'll be suprised at how easy it actually is, just time consuming. If you dont want to spend the 130$ on the test, just get a perfectly straight metal edge/table and use a feeler gauge or even torch to check whether or not it needs machining. I dont think a VAC test on the valves is really necessary on a low klm head like these atm. If its warped, definately get it pressure tested after getting it machined.

If you want to quieten it just for the RWC just stuff a bit of steel wool in the end pipe, should burn out within a few days although some of you with the 3.5"rs may be stuffing for a while

Love the R31's, used to have a sexy s3 silhouette. Whether or not the HICAS lights are on or off the car should start (just a pig to drive without a lockbar). If it happened right after you pulled the wiring out then thats definately your problem. Can you remember where the wires ran to? If the cars cranking over, make sure you have power to the coil - do the dash lights come on when your cranking the engine over? Wiring schematics for the car can be found on www.r31skylineclub.com. If you live on the GC i might be able to give u a hand

Grant it depends on whether or not the boss is hicas compatable, if it is it will fit on perfectly without fouling on the plastic lugs that sit behind the steering wheel. When you change it over, you will have to reset the HICAS to get rid of the light (i think). There are a few tutorials on here how to do it. You may also have to reset the SRS computer too The HICAS light will also come on if your brake fluid is low on the R32 or the connections are faulty, or just the connections on the R33 + GTR's so check these before buggering around with this test... To put HICAS in test mode: start car in neuteral with the steering wheel in the centre, starting from centre, turn the steeing wheel 20deg (about 10 and 2 o-clock) left (10) right left right left then to centre. pump the breaks 5 times (do NOT hit the break at any time before this or it will disable hicas test mode). Hicas light will come on and the rear whels will move when you turn the steering wheel. Put the car in drive (a/t) or first (m/t). Drive slowly foward (under 10kph) in a straight line. 1 of 2 things will hapen after about 10m, 1 the hicas light will flash fast, this indicated all ok and NO faults found. The other is that it will flash a code if a fault is found. The r33 onwards has 2 flashes for the code, the long flash is first digit, short flash is second digit. Codes are: R32 1- hicas solinoid right 2- '' '' '' '' left 3- cut off valve 4- power steering solinoid 5- speed sensor 6- angle sensor 7- neuteral position sensor 8- park break sensor (a/t) or cluch sensor (m/t) 9- inhibit switch (a/t) or neuteral sensor (m/t) R33+ 11- hicas control unit 12- '' '' motor power supply awol 13- '' '' '' '' output not present 21- speed sensor 22- steering angle sensor awol 23- " " " " " " " " or neuteral 24- rear main sensor input awol 25- " " sub sensor " " " " 31- park break sensor awol 32- inhibit switch (a/t) or neuteral switch awol (m/t) 33- engine speed signal awol.

Found this somewhere, hope it helps RB engine fuel consumption in Skyline engine -model-auto/man fuel use per 100km rb20e (r32) =10.6L/8.9L rb20de (r32) =12.0L/10.2L rb25de (r32) = 12.3L/ 10.5L rb20det(r32) = 12.5L/10.5L rb20det(r32 4WD)=14.4L/12.0L rb20e (r33) = 9.8L/8.7L rb25de (r33 4WD)=11.9L/10.8L rb25de (r33) =10.3L/9.6 rb25det (r33) =11.2L/9.8L rb26dett(r32) =12.1L (man coupe only) rb26dett(r33) =12.3L (man coupe only) rb20de (r34) =8.7L/8.3L rb25de (r34) =9.4L/9.0L rb25det (r34) =10.2L/9.4L rb26dett (r34) =12.3L (man coupe only)

They are Like elk said, spray some WD40 down the button or make sure the grip sleeve is as far down as possible because it sometimes catches on this, otherwise its been tightened way to tight i would say

I think on that plug you should be able to prise it open and reuse it. Double check the globe, I had the same issue and thats what it was, the coil filament was broken but still touching, so it would work intermittently or whenever i thumped it. Plugs are plentyfull off wrecked skylines on ebay. You could also try pulling out the globe and cleaning the contacts on the inside. They usually get electrolite/oxides buildup when theres a poor earth

Cool, Ill check after work if its there. Have you had a look at a wiring diagram for that wire?

What temp and how long roughly to get the glue prisable? Leds all good now? For your driving lights grab and relay and just run the feed from the fusebox

yeah different units

just put the 5$ worth of relays in

oh yeah wont affect your power steering

yeah just exchange it for a hicas boss if you plan to take the lock bar out at some stage. Not much in the price difference i would assume