Jmaac

Does anyone have a list of the softcodes for the R33? I can find the odd few (i.e. SRS reset, Aircon debug etc.) on here but Im unsure where to source the complete list from. I have a number of different manuals but cant find anything. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers

Sometimes if you use cleaning chemicals (mainly the wrong ones) on the rubber to clean inside the engine bay it leeches in with the heat (reactions speed up) and if it hasnt been cleaned off properly it discolors it and slowly destroys/breaks down the rubber. Same with plastics. But if its happening at all the hoses then it sounds like you havent put the hose clamps back on correctly. Use a tiny socket rather than a screwdriver. My two bob

Ive been looking for a seperate LED for 6 months but no one will part with it, getting the whole spoiler/led assembly is probably cheaper and easier off ebay. You can get similar LED's from Autobahn but theyre crap, the LED colours dont match, and only fit with double sided tape. Try and pull it apart and replace the LED's. Craved is right, if she aint working and your breaklights are, then theres a break in the led bank. Let us know if you can get it to pieces, im lazy

yeah loosen it up, get someone to sit in it so it settles, then tighten it all up

Just squeeze two screwdrivers in behind the pulley and lever it off the block (not the sump), but wiggle it, one side and then the other - do this for 1-2hrs and you'll get any balancer off The only way I ever managed to get that stupid bolt out, was to pull out the startermotor and jam a great big dirty screwdriver into the flywheel, oh and use an industrial strength electric impact gun that once sheared my diff bolts off

That idle up then down is the clutch engaging the aircon compressor, which increases the load on the engine, and the AAC valve increases your idle to compensate so it doesnt stall. The drop down occurs when your thermostat is at the correct temperature and the clutch is disengaged from the compressor. Perfectly normal unless the Aircon switches aint working. The clicking sounds can also be the vents opening and closing, its a common problem apparently, the little plastic teeth come off the rails so im told??? but requires the whole dash to come apart - stuff that I dont think the size of the molecule matters witht the aircon hose, I think its more the press fittings which are the issue, or any threaded joints especially if youve been moving/bending aircon pipes/hoses about the place to get your FMIC to fit. Take it to an aircon place, they inject a die into the cooling system to check for leaks, make sure you tell them o/wise theyll just fill it up and send you on your way - they love it, cos you come back in six months to get the same thing done. O/wise keep the windows down and make sure your heaters turned up - problem solved

I think so, or a poor earth from bat>car or to starter. If you want to check if your battery is really dying, grab a battery tester from supercheap ~$8 i think, theyre really handy and you'll keep it forever

Glycol or something? Its all the same, just look at the concentrations to compare quality. If your going to do that you might aswell flush the block properly; engine drain plug is under the rear of the turbo manifold. Dont forget to bleed the air from the cooling system also when you fill it.

Aside that black box for your indicator stalk, the rest im pretty sure is the HICAS steering position sensor. If you remove it you'll just get the HICAS light on the dash which wont matter if you've put a lock bar in anyway

Under the diff if you want to raise the rear

I always put my car up on axle stands if im storing it for a while, should prevent the shocks from leaking (been doing it for so long now im not sure where I heard it from) I wouldnt worry about the ECU if its stock, it automatically resets after 50 starts or so...

name: justin loc: currumbin beach cars: s2 r33 gtst, s2 vl calais colour: white mods: low klm stock aside r32 gtr rims

led out of the rear spoiler?