Jmaac

+1 bilsteins, great allrounder

I've never seen a drivers door with a act. master in it. If the alarm doesnt have an option for it you'll need a relay, Could just be a flat battery from sitting in the box for a while.

Try locking/unlocking from the passengers door. If it doesnt lock/unlock the drivers door then you will need an actuator for it Try retrofitting a secondhand passenger door actuator to the drivers side or get a DSE kit

spot on. dump the pod

vvt switch point, change your plugs first or regap. if it continues to missfire at high rpm then buy some second hand coil packs and switch them in/out until it stops happening (or just buy some splitfires). tape wont work (poor insulator of heat)... possibly better than nothing

cut out a carboard template and take it to a glass place. glue it right back on there

Jack the car up and spin the wheel. If the stub axle is bent the caliper will bind on the disc every revolution

have you tried switching the ecu for another s2 one?

i believe the blitz lm cooler is another option if you dont want to drill holes

how do you impregnate the resin properly without an autoclave?

If you want to save time you can unscrew the cover and slide it out without taking the hard pipe off. This will give you enough room to pull plugs on all 6 coilpacks to diagnose the fault. If your lucky like me the dead one will be one of 4 (out of the 6) that you can pull out like this.

series 1? sounds like the classic power transistor/ignition module is on its way out

glovebox manual for anyone wanting a quick read http://www.courtesyparts.com/pdf/2009-Nissan-GTR.pdf

how much for the turbo actuator

whoa got a little sidetracked whilst responding to a clutch email (same theory). by slaves i mean the pistons in the calipers. I think it was only a little more for a caliper reconditioning kit (2 pot), not sure why i threw out a clutch slave cylinder price but you get an idea on the cost of a few seals, springs etc.

The master&slave cylinders are just housings that contain a piston that moves hydralic fluid. If they were to go bad im sure they would be leaking fluid allover the place under these pressures (in theory its posssible that it can be sucking in air under negative pressure/vaccum. This means the unit would be extremely close to failing and/or just a crap design). Alternatively the inernal spring may not be giving you full return. Im sure you can get master cylinder and slave cylinder reconditioning kits much cheaper than buying the overall unit if you feel its an issue ($14 for slave reco kit for VLT box few years ago, $50 for master i think but totally different design). You can even improve your breaking force force by machining the housings out and make a larger pistons to suit if you wish (use F/A = F/A as a guide). Do skylines have vaccum assist? im not totally sure as I havent really worked on that side of the engine bay yet but leaks there wouldnt help either. Any air can definately make it feel spongy (air is compressible whereas (most) fluids are incompressible). Some manuals for other nissan makes state, "turn ignition switch "OFF" and disconnect ABS actuator connectors or battery ground cable" before bleeding. Hope that helps

If its not leaking again then it sounds like your not bleeding it properly How are you doing it?

If air becomes trapped before the abs modulator then it can be really hard to push out. Im not sure with the skyline if theres special bleed screws on the modulator for this purpose as I dont have it on my car. If there isnt you will need a special device to cycle through the abs solenoids whilst you bleed the system

As above. If you really want it you can purchase the standard from www.saiglobal.com, ISO 9141-2:1994 Road vehicles - Diagnostic systems - Part 2: CARB requirements for interchange of digital information pdfcopy is $66.71, hardcopy is $74.12

My car was repaired 2 months ago, apparently they paid over $1100 for a new S2 replacement headlight from nissan (telling fibs I think). way too much if you ask me

sill adapters are needed so you dont bend it

Not sure if you touched the radiator cap but its possible its starting to fail or is the wrong one. Heres a lesson, an increase in cooling system pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant, this prevents the flashpoint conversion to steam when near cylinder hotspots thus better cooling (higher altitude also reduces atm pressure and lowers boiling point). That smell could be the cap opening prematurely and flushing coolant out of the overflow. Put a new stock cap in or one rated a little higher (not as cold as japan here so dont need the heat). Dont go too high because if the pressure release is rated to high it can burst hoses etc. The clutch on the fan is could be gone also My 2 bob

BOV's cant exhaust to the atmo and your only allowed one intake mod. If you add a pod (rather than larger cooler) it must also be fixed to the car with a bracket

You cant replace the boot on a ball joint, you have to replace the whole thing. Ball joints are cheap and you can get them from any auto store however you'll need to buy a special tool to install them (also pretty cheap).

If u get the right sized battery for the car it will fit. Your alternator should last longer too. Just look in the catalogues provided in store. Cover the terminals in vaseline or petroleum jelly once installed also Kinda as mick said, you can get a fully sealed battery which is legal and requires no vent (expensive but), or a battery with a vent. Using a tube, the vent is used to carry flammable gas (thats created during the charging process) outside the car.