Jmaac

Sounds like your ignitor if its a series one (being that year it should be) which is located in the engine bay, S2 is actually bundled in with the ECU inside the car to avoid this problem. As it warms up (and its on its way out it) it should cut power to the coilpacks. Once its cooled (or using a cool shorting trick) it should start again. Replace or reposition it away from the engine to fix. Common on RB30's with the ignition module under the dizzy

Try giving this a shot, no guarantees Turn key so dash lights are on (sounds like the immobiliser has successfully been removed from the coil/ign circuit). Follow positive cable from battery to starter motor. There are two nuts separated by a piece of metal. Short the two nuts with a spanner or shifter and the starter should crank and start the car. If it doesnt, then your starters fried. If it does, theres a short in the smotor circuit (similar to how a kill switch works w/ coil) created by the alarm install/removal. It appears the starter circuit is earthing to the chassis, one of the only peripherals large enough to supply a killer current to the engine fuse. If it is the alarm, follow all the smaller wires around (unless you have a mmeter) and find where the other wires have been piggybacked into the circuit (usually clean black wires with a number written on them in white) or where they have been removed from. Remove these or tape up any exposed wires accordingly. have fun

i was under the impression the neutral start switch just prevented you from starting the car, not from getting your key out sure the steering lock isnt just on?

gate has to be after all the collectors have merged. at least at the back of the manifold. a billet spacer with a 90* attachment for w/g b/n manifold and turbo will do. If you have casting capabilities tried to reduce the 90* bend into a smaller angle/smoother transition

have you looked at getting a gtr front cut and selling the running gear?

called softcodes. built into ecu so you can do certain functions without consult the workshop manual tells you how to take it out of diagnosis mode using a wire and the consult connector. I cannot remember the sequence for it anymore unfortunately

no, your car/smotor will only pull what it needs, 600amps is its current capacity. Should be ok if you still have juice in your battery (there only a small 6 anyway)

go the hyundi excel with the paint tin muffler!

Hey the first two are actually based on very sound concepts (although on such a small scale efficiencies are minute which is why it confuses people, could work but doesnt etc.) think capacitors and water running down a drain, the third is just a joke, breaks the conservation of energy law!

As above, its only really going to change the note. You need a full system to really change drivability. Remember your na relies on a certain amount of backpressure (unlike turbo), and can only flow as fast as the smallest restriction cat forward. There might be slight improvements from the scavanging effect caused by the pressure drop over the two sized pipes (cat providing the baffle/smooth transition of exhaust flow) but a full tuned system always has a much better effectiveness/efficiency at scavaging or pulling power from the motor. Save a little more and get a full system, you'll also save on labour in the long run. Anyway you'll have to do a bit of searching to find what your looking for because the improvements are so small and hard to judge on a n/a catback system On an N/a skyline i wouldnt go above full 2.5" and that will support all future mods albeit turbo coversion. Might find mid range drop off and top end increase without (torque move up rpm) them though. Only bother if you intend to

I wouldnt bother unless your going to do performance upgrades. Top end will increase, midrange will drop off - its real complicated, depends on the power levels your trying to achieve. Going big exhaust is not like going big exhaust on a turbo, your just gonna make noise and make your skyline a pig to drive

isnt the accessory wire just used for a rheostat switch (and ign use for signal?) i.e. only used for illumination?

do you have an aftermarket steering wheel? do a search, there are heaps of poorly written tutorials all with slight variations in their order which wont make it work. just try a few and you'll find one will. You'll have to make sure your car is out of diagnosis mode first before the reset will work and without consult its hard to tell hence why so many people have problems (door open, ign on, ign off then start procedure of something similar). I believe you can also use a consult device to reset it although if you cant use the softcodes, then somethings obviously wrong with srs/abag circuit

Check to see if your getting fuel pressure at the motor and/or spark and work backwards from there. Alternatively start from the battery and trace back any aftermarket wiring and remove it. Re-attach like wires. If the wires are all black, see if they have numbers on them and remove those too. Alarms and immobilisers are pretty easy to install, they all come with instructions these days. The skill is generally in hiding away all the wiring anyways Jaycar have cheap aust compliance immobilers&alarms also

You'll have to stick your hand up through the grill and either find the wires to the solenoid or using long nosed pliers pull on the solenoid/act arm

is power dying or is it just hesitating?

Get a jumpstart off a friend and let your alternator charge it or buy a cheap arlec car-battery charger from supercheap ~25$ Battery might not be dead just flat (but this depends on heaps of factors) i.e. not able to provide enough current, anyway you'll know when it wont hold full charge Another possibility is that youve run down into the filth at the bottom of the tank and that its blocked the fuel filter. Check fuel pressure as above All else fails check ign circuit

Another similar cheap and easy method is buying an rb20 ecu, and installing the nistune chip. Theres also two types of z32 ecu, make sure you get the right one (cant remember off the top of my head)

take the timing cover off and spin it a few times by hand. check to see if it hasnt jumped any teeth as godz said. heaps common with diyrs

blocked pcv valve?

Clunking is usually a loose caliper Thats normal for pad on disc. If its excessive the pads might not be worn in properly or could be be the wrong size (thickness etc)/cheapies altogether. Caliper piston could be getting jammed and not retracting off the hub properly, see if you can get rid of the noise first before trying to rectify this

There is a hicas computer down the back there somewhere, but theres also an external stereo amplifier. That might be it, not sure

same

saw one of an rb30 auto box - dime a dozen

Yes this is normal, if the tolerance is way too big (as on cheapies) they will sit off centre and vibrate so no amount of balancing can fix it Same as normal, nope Not necessarily, check the pitch of each thread o/wise you may find yourself rethreading the studs Re: first post, I took my wheel spacers out and the thinner stance made it heaps easier to flick the car s/ways Just dont use spacer on spacer o/wise the problems in 1st line will be magnified I wouldnt go anything made of Al billet, must be at least mild steel