Jmaac

whats a toptank?

Probably stock ecu going from low boost to high boost mode. The stock ecu automatically switches boost levels around that rpm. You just need to earth the signal wire to keep it high all the time. Check technical archive. If you put in a manual controller you should definately be doing that o/wise your ecu will kick it all over the place or could be your coilpacks, replace or regap plugs or search&read

could be either or both put a m/meter accross the bat terminals and measure the voltage, check to see if its within spec take your battery to supercheap and get thme to test it with an electrolyte/battery tester (or buy one ~7$) if its near new you may be able to clean the plates with a battery conditioner of some sort...

maybe unscrew it, put some threadlocker on and screw it back in

throwout/spigot bearing?

did it start doing these things before or after changing these things? Im assuming you have a S1 if you replaced the external ign. module, did u get the right AFM (S1 & 2 are diff). Whats the gap on your plugs etc.

R32GTR gear is 2mm thicker (disc & caliper spacing) than R33GTST gear if that helps. everything else is the same

These things are realy expensive (i think someone mentioned 500+$) Use a VL one or use an electric fan - much, much cheaper I actually have a brand new one from a vl with a few klms on it if your interested You'll need a mate to test, but once the viscous fan gets to a certain speed it shouldnt go any faster, just keep revving the motor up high and see if it increases with rpm all the way up the scale. If anything it may of shift indicating wear You can also just turn the fan with the car off and see if its fully seized

Oooo cant remember. Maybe cas

rotate the engine over a few times to ensure the belt tension is correct and then see if your marks are lining up

it will 'blip' up when your ac is on to compensate for the load. Stalling will prob. be an air leak or an atmo BOV mod. Mines great on the juice, even with my foot flat to the floor

I believe the same

del

in your cat?

Glad you fixed it. Squeaking is also common when putting in HD cluthes/pplates. The extra force to disengage the clutch actually starts fatiguing the pedal box quite quickly and it starts to flex and crack - squeak, squeak

Go darkest legal ~20% Make sure you goto a place that supplys a lifetime wrranty and then you'll have no issues Make sure you use the right cleaners on the tint or it will bubble as you said Make sure it has a titanium film (scratch resistant) And onces its installed, dont open your windows for a couple of days... Its really cheap and easy to do it yourself also. All you need is a squidgee and a bucket of water (+ tint)

Oh and if the trim plate around your gearstick is gone you'll get a bit of heat and fumes up through there also

Look in the engine bay at your evap cannister and see if all the lines are plugged into it. Also check fuel return hose config. at petrol tank end. I believe the AC air intake snorkel is on the passenger side of the firewall, have a look around that also On one of my old cars, my ac intake was literally sucking the fumes straight out of the petrol tank via loose hose to charcoal cannister - mmmmm nice

When u install the timing belt and lock off the tensioner one side is actually tensioned more than the other, and this uneveness causes it to move one tooth on startup. Sounds like your mechanic put it on and didnt turn the motor over to even out the belt tension out before checking the alignment of marks (lazy). I found in many old RB30s that I had to line up the belt with one tooth out up on the cam for it to line back up properly when the tension became even

interested in swap+cash diff?

someone measure it up for me and ill write the program up for you or post me a gasket

R32 GTR discs, calipers & wheel offset are all 2mm wider than R33 GTST The surface area is the same so braking isnt improved, the thicker discs just allow more heat to dissapate

Ive been looking for that Bundy white rum for ages but it doesnt exist anymore, can u guys still get it up there?

Yep, check your earth connection, not only on battery but on ignition system, and if it doesnt help then one of your spark plug leads may of had it (which good shielded RCA's will fix anyways)

Just cut the signal wire to the box so for reverse, there might be a switch underneath the centre console trim near the shifter alternatively it could be near the neutral start switch etc.