Jmaac

Why did u disconnect the BOV?

Might of shorted the AFM, maybe borrow one and try that

A leakdown test of the cooling system and/or block/head will tell you exactly whats wrong, aswell as many other things If your missing water then its being sucked into the engine or forced out through the o/flow. Look for white milky residue under your oil filler cap, or excess moisture from the tailpipe on initial startup, bubbles in the coolant etc. The alloy head can crack pretty easily also

A nice crack in the block will do that too But more likely a head gasket, do a leakdown test

5-30 is recommended, i use 10-40 aswell so should be fine

Have you put new sparkplugs in since? Were they gapped already at 0.8mm to help with your old coilpacks?

atmo BOV dont tend to help

Supercheap and the like sell radiator flush that will help clean the system Rb25det i know holds 8.5l and rb26dett holds 9l plus whatever

rb26dett intake manifold and itb's on a rb20 head http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/307325

do an auto transmission diagnostic, in tutorial section

Apparently you have to replace the srs ecu after the a/bags have blown also which is located under the armrest (anything marked with a yellow sticker is srs) Ive seen a thread on here where someone has replaced these

replace the nozzle, sounds like its just worn out (holes too big for the waters ST to keep it retained)

solonoid is the smaller cylinder next to the main starter motor body, up towards the firewall. usually helps if its on its way out or is jammed if it sounds like its spinning, your SM bolts may have come loose and its not engaging the flywheel properly or you've stripped some teeth off the gearset but 'overstarting' (you know that thing girls do to your car:) or something

im guessing it would depend on whether or not you wanted to start tuning it yourself later on... remap and you'll retain alot of the nice factory settings, its cheaper, does the same thing ultimately. will need to spend more on emulators, eeprom writers etc. to start playing with your own maps. emu and you'll be able to jump right in and tune yourself later on if ure feeling confident enuf u'll always be able to find someone who can tune either so that shouldnt really be an issue? my2bobanyways

from what i understand if u get a remap you'll need to buy an emulator if you want to start modifying your maps realtime. you can also buy a cheap eeprom writer but you cannot do realtime and each eeprom can only be burned once. both require one of those piggyback sockets to be installed (which would be done if you had a remap) - either way it starts to get fiddly and expensive if you dont know what your doing. the nistune board pretty much does the exact same thing as all of the above but is much more user friendly i.e. you can plug your p.c. in it and tune it realtime, look at sensors etc. and know its going to work. the added bonus is that theres software/revisions specifically written for it. so for the extra cash you'll be able to do your own tunes later on quite easily if you want real cheap, install a piggyback socket thing, get a jaycar eeprom writer kit and find someone on the net whos uploaded a rom file to suit your specific setup, write to a blank eeprom, install and driveaway. Or copy a mates map with a reader/writer kit etc. correct me if im wrong

?? plenty of people are getting big hp on a stock gtr crank - not only street use either. who tunes his car? do a search, that might help you a little more

I would run a restrictor just to be safe than sorry. there'll be no pressure drop as long as its the same size as the one in the turbo correct me if im wrong

If the solonoids playing up just bash it a bit with a block of wood Try and roll start you car, that'll let u know if it actually is the SM. Two bolts, a plug, and an earth - real easy to do

Rebuild it over buying a new one - its new then anyways. Like Godzilla said, it could be as simple as $5 brushes, get a quote first I paid about the same from my autoelec and that included a rewinding

or get it rebuilt

That conductive paste is actually for heat transfer and not electrical conductivity. On older RB's, the grease/paste is put under the ignition module to help remove heat away from it via the heatsink (as the dizzy sits up and away from the block). On these motors, when the module gets hot the car will just cutout/stall while you are driving (should start when cooled). Doing this may kill your coilpacks prematurely as they're going to soak up that heat more efficienty/effectively now. Its the same paste used for computer ecu's. Ive seen it priced from 18$ a tube to 90$. I personally went to pick-a-part, pulled every ignition module (rendering every dizzy useless) and collected up all the grease Geetr is right about the non-dielectric grease however thats a different paste alltogether. As he said its used to reduce oxidation of the battery (which is generally sped up by poor earths). Grab some cheap earth leads from supercheap and start connecting them up (to clean surfaces!)

pre '96 z32 ecu - similar in ease to softmodding r32 but has support for vct

Not sure, I pulled it out of my factory R33 manual doesnt say

This works on my R33 Yep, sounds like it just needs regassing if the diagnositc proves the solenoid blend motors are ok