GT-RZ

my engine mounts are 40-45mm high on an r33 x member i think. Then the engine sits about15mm further back then standard. No problems at the front as the swaybar pretty much bends around the entire engine.... When the power steering rack is fitted (didn't have any pictures) there is only maybe 5mm of room between the top and the sump. , The powersteering rack also sits closer to the x- member so i gain a little more room behind there if needed too? Would the custom pan incorporate the gearbox mounts also? Thanks mate.

The rb25/20 brackets that bolt to the block don't work as there is no mounting provision on the 26 block... How much extra would an rb26 dry sump cost if you source the pan too? I don't have one. (one of the main issues is that the sump cannot protrude any lower then an rb25 pan where it passes the crossmember as the standard 25 one sits about 2mm away from the member... Maybe the other style drysump would be better in my situation with the trench straight through the middle and flushed where the x member sits..? Thanks.

Did you get my second email brad? Just after some more info on the dry sump kit. Also wondering about the rb25 dry sumps as my intentions are to fit to an rb26. Do you have a solution for the bottom gearbox brackets (probably get away without installing them but....) Thanks mate, Dean.

Don't know what these are worth lets say $100 the pair, make an offer.

Thanks for the quick email reply brad, once i have this system installed i am wondering about vents/ regulating pressure: What is the reason behind creating vacuum in the crankcase excluding gained HP... I can't see how it would benefit the scavenging inlets? The greater the vacuum (better sealed the block) the harder the pump would have to work to pull 'x' amount of flow through it's gears.... (think about sucking water through a straw and then gradually plugging up the end... then it gets to a point where you give up sucking or the plug fails.... half moons seems to often be the weakest link.) I think the best way would be to set up a pressure relief valve (placed on the engine cam covers for a nice velocity stream to the scavengers) adjusted for optimum engine HP ('x'hg) and then accomidate the engines seals to deal with such negative pressure... (most engine seals are lipped to deal with positive pressure?) I personally cant see any advanatge on the pumps behalf to sealing the crankcase (unless of course your blow-by was creating the relative amount of positive pressure...) Also given the design of the pumps lets say we have 3 scavenging chambers and one returning then obviously this is how vacuum is created and we use it as we wish but is there a vent located on the return oil tank? Or do the pumps accomidate a built in relief??? Sorry but i'm just trying to get my head around these systems... I'm unsure if you already do this but i can possibly also see a big advantage in reducing the diamater of the scavenger line right where it plumbs in to the sump to create a little bit more intake velocity (not necissary when submerged in oil like a wetsump but when there is air and oil? Or maybe too much velocity is a bad idea as the oil could froth up?) I know your systems are proven but somtimes i have to understand the magic before i'll believe the trick....

sent you a pm regarding 26 block and crank...

they are only used because they give instant lock when using in drifting. nothing more.

Would prefer to find buyers in adelaide. Open to offers. PS: seen two pairs of cast iron knuckles cracked but never a set of alloy GTR ones these are reinforced by design where the cast steel ones let go.

i think the picture clearly shows an untouched RB30 bottom end.

As seen in the pic i have some R34 ALLOY rear knuckles they come with the slip on spacer to fit standard LCA (any skyline/silvia). These use the widest twin sheer strut connection so you will need either R4 strut bottom (can get this for most coilovers) or modify your own. Don't really know how much they are worth so chasing $200 for them. open to offers. pm me or message me on 0435127057 for instant reply. Located in ADELAIDE. Not open to sending interstate unless can't find a local buyer.

if you have ever taken the drum assembly off and feel the weight in your hand you will understand... You may as well put helium in your tires buddy, If you think that much weight will do any difference your dreaming. Besides it's different to wheels because the assembly, unlike wheels is not a rotating mass. You may as well fit plastic wheel nuts or take off your window mirrors and get the same effect. What car is it? If your concerned you should just go and get the alloy rear hub assembly. 32 or 33 GTR or any R34 depending on what you have.

wiser to use rb25 head studs.

What gives you guys the impression that the drum assembly weighs anything? It's fk all. Hydraulic handbrake is no good for parking your car either because the pressure drops off.

No need to alter coilovers when you can just go ahead and bolt in a silvia knuckle... I have R34 cradle in my s13 i simply swapped the alloy R34 knuckles with some s13 ones (kept all the r34 hub assembly) and switched the camber arms with s13 ones. everything else is R34. The R34/R33 GTR alloy knuckles use a much larger taper on the LCA Ball joint but that is just a slip on washer which you just pull off and slip on a normal silvia knuckle. No welding required anywhere. R33 gear will bolt straight in to s14 rear cradle, infact s14 and R33 rear cradle are idenitcal overall so not much point in switching it. Only other thing id rather do is use the r33 hub assembly so u have the best handbrake setup (drum).

wel if you get the flush ones you wont be using a drill bit will you. If you get normals pins and need a hole you will be using a masonry bit. ie no rake. Otherwise the drill bit will bite in to the fibres and crack the resin... As for cutting out the shape for the flush ones you will be using a small grinder, preferably diamond coated however thats probably not within ur budget for the job. We get our grinding disks custom diamond coated. Any large holes should be done with again a diamond coated hole cutter. big sharp teeth may crack the material. have fun. So in short you shoul be using diamond coated hole saw and cutting disk but if you cant get these any masonry bits for that job will do (normally bits of diamond or ceramic)

carbon fibre bonnets like yours are fibreglass with a top layer of CF to make it look pretty. even if it was ALL carbon its bonded with resin and will not affect anything if you cut holes in it for bonnet pins...

bad setup. imo. self draining should have an oil/air seperator that only allows heavy oil to pass back in to the SUMP not the head... The breather should always be higher than the drain. your drain is higher. Plus your drain goes straight to the intake and the way it's designed pure oil could go that way. not just gasses.

realistically mixing disimilar metals is not the go. if your dump and exhaust is stainless then feel free to use SS. If it's mild steel then steel fasteners naturally are choice... One word of warning though if your going to replace studs/bolts and nuts with SS items you must apply some lube/anti galling paste, it's good practice to do this with steel too but steel wont cold weld itself together like SS will. If you dont it's almost guaranteed you will sheer the stud/bolt when you try to remove the nut in the future if you tightened it up correctly. my 2c. don't overcomplicate things.

I have been using it as a digital and versitale drawing cabinet lol. Hicas eliminator (r33,r34,s15 etc) allows normal rear toe arms to be installed and acts as a brace too. rb25gbox in to silvia... very handy indeed saves allot of time in the design process allows everything to be stress tested pre fabrication.

Just thought id add some info here. The nitty gritty is very simple. flux core 'gasless' (there is also flux core 'gas') welding is negative electrode. In short it means the majority of heat is in your workpiece rather than the wire. Gas mig is positive electrode which is the opposite. Thats why generally flux core is not suited for thinner materials although is beneficial to thicker materials as the same input current can yield much better penetration. Best way to see this taking place is if youve ever tried to TIG weld aluminium without AC, with a normal DC scratch start TIG welder it is possible to weld aluminium (using electrode positive) but to prevent the tungsten from melting you have to use an electrode 3-4 times bigger than you would for the amperage. If you try to weld aluminium with DC negative you will not see a pool form but rather the material will literally turn molten and flop apart in a matter of seconds. Spitting could be any number of things; wire speed, amperage, stickout, wrong wire, contamined surface the list goes on. Realistically you get what you pay for and for any kind of welding on cars or sheetmetal you can forget fluxcore, get some gas and take some lessons is the best advice. Sorry if i went on but i remember learning to weld and there is a million people who think they know how to weld when quite simply; they dont have the slightest idea.

Stock turbos and everything that connects them, whatever you need. ALL clean perfect condition. Just taking up room on my floor, $850 ONO if your interested message me on 0435127057 or pm me but I'm not online often. Located in ADELAIDE.

fairly sure the 20/25 are around 250kg's complete and for the GTR's out there add on another lump of shit for the 4wd you would be pushing up near the 280+kg mark. 25g/box weigh ~ 55kg with oil... 26 more again with the adapter for 4wd... Makes me sick when i look at some other weights i have listed.. CA18DET without transmission is only 128kg... SR20 non earlier non vvt 150kg without trans... (later with vvt is ~10kg more) but they are just four bangers, not that bad? VG30DET 210kg without trans. ford small block 220kg without trans. chevy small block 260kg without trans. Infact the only engine i have listed that is HEAVIER (and it makes me smile) the old 2JZ which comes in at 340kg WITH Transmission. which is a good 40kg more than a 20/25/26 NON 4wd. GTR's would probably be around the same or more with there added fat. so if these block are substantially lighter the RB crowd would definently be winners. Not sure why you would bother with the SR20 though considering you already have a light alloy block with sleeves. but.

do you have stock rear suspension? pm me a price if you do. thanks.

still having trouble finding a split pulse 35r.... anyone got a link to somewhere that actually sells this model?

the problem is the larger hicas powersteering pumps with the larger v band belt, they sit differently to the non hicas pumps (r33+ hicas was electric) if your using the 32 hicas pump then you will need the matching bracket and a balancer to suit... if you have an r33+ pump then you can use either the RB30 bracket or machine the lug off the origional and it will fit. basically r32 stuff is the odd one out. R31 R33 R34 all have the same bracket basically and same alignment.