GT-RZ

engineers report is not the do all end all anyway. they can still refuse something if they see a problem with it. and like said. that turbo instantly got you up sh*t creek. ecu must be standard. If they even suspect your ecu is tampered with (remapped) and cannot prove anything they can (and do) request a full report from nissan to certify it's settings $$$$$. anything that can be altered ie: coilovers (eng cert and modification making them unable to travel lower than legal height under full loaded car.) boost controller (same deal. much more involved as lowest level of boost and highest level would have to be emissions tested and the unit also locked so that it cannot exceed engineered limits.) you can have any modifcation you want so long as it's engineered, emissions tested and modified in a way that it can not be altered/programmed any different to what your certificate states.

not sure what brackets you have now but it's important to note that the RB30 brackets sit the motor back about ~5-10mm compared to the rb20 brackets. can help allot with bonet fouling issues but if you matched up an rb30 exhaust side bracket and a rb20 bracket on the intake side then your engine could be sitting potentially horizontally twisted (depending how much give are in your mounts) with the front facing your L/H headlight. plus if your going to buy a new crossmember you could just get a ceffy member which sits it further back again. if you wanted to change everything then go for the 33 turbo x member and brackets with rb20/30 mounts. probably not that much off an issue to do that though. mine is in a silvia and it is a problem with them!

yea normally the coating will go powdery and come off a bit but it stays a duller version of the colour you put on most the time... make sure you get it blasted or acid cleaned before you do it though otherwise its a waste of time. personally anything that is getting a bit of surface rust like exhaust manifolds or whatever i just dip/spray it in phosphoric acid which chemically turns the surface black/gray and it stays that way. phosphoric acid also works really well for brightening/ cleaning aluminium and is allot safer than the hydroflouric/nitroc acid mixtures.

26 stud size is bigger so no issue running it on a 30.

i can provide the rundown. doing it now. r33 turbo x member with r33 turbo brackets and rb20 or rb30 mounts (or any other 40mm or smaller, im making custom solid mounts anyway ) this setup is the lowest combo. (mine is a 26/30 so i need it to be low as possible) you will read somewhere that people use r33 x member and rb20 engine brackets. they are using r33 non turbo member so dont get confused and its not lower anyway just bad information. the r33 turbo x member and brackets sit flat and the non turbo x member sits on an angle like the 32 x member. also, if you use an a31, r32 or r33 non turbo x member. The rb30 engine brackets are identical to the a31, 32 or r33 non turbo brackets except the hole is not offset and they will sit the motor back another 5-10mm. using a 25 box you will need rb25 tailshaft yoke welded on the end of a manual s13 tailshaft (no need to shorten it) although i think you can break the uni joint and join it there (not sure as i have not done that yet) you need to customise the gearbox mount bracket using a 20box you can pop the manual tailshaft straight in. you need the gearbox mount with 'c' stamped in it i think.

No leak if you block off all the old connections. stock setup the blow-by goes back in to the intake and is combusted not back in to the sump.

hope you got your facts right mate because i was told rb25 would require an engineers cert directly from the regency call centre, aswell as the bigger brakes. so cant see why an RB26 would get the green card? the only advatnage you will have is that the cops generally don't know the difference between any off them.

hah. well don't think this problem is going to be resolved very fast. one pump per line or work out some issues with fuel pressure and return.

i never said fuel pumping back in to the surge. talking about fuel pourng from the surge in to the main tank... if you have wayy too much fuel coming up from the lifter pump and too much fuel pressure going down the line then the overflow pipe will be chucking it back in the main tank... maybe you should check it out. i'm having a wild guess but it's all i can think off ?

maybe. idealy if you have two 8mm lines going in to one line you would want that single line to be bigger? perfect setup would be two seperate lines? how much power are you making? is two necessary? maybe get one pump to supply it all? nismo? just a thought... that noise is not heaps of fuel pouring through your surge tank overflow pipe? one pump would not be chucking as much fuel back in to your main tank?

yea new nissan coils are a small fortune.

oh ell. thats what i was not hoping for.

i need a sump to fit a 180? does anyone know if the HE sumps will fit in no dramas? lewis engines, i checked your website and you have no information about any sumps on RB's??? only CA's... update soon? Don't really want to chop the front of my sump, rather it fit up all nice

why change the factory setup? its proven and reliable. it's lasted decades. did you 100% figure out it was the earth wire or was it your coils? heaps of high HP cars running splitfires with factory looms.

Wouldn't start running like crap and sounding like a WRX when you turn it on at cold start though and then suddenly pick up to perfect. to intermittent for it to be a leak imo. if you have plenty $$ to spend get some new coils and i'm almost certain the problem will be gone.

your in the forced induction section so i'm wondering did you mean RB30DET? or RB30e both will fit the same but just wondered should fit in to a ceffy no dramas. retain your ceffy engine x-member and use the brackets and mounts from your RB20. I noticed before though that RB30 brackets sit the motor back about 5-10mm compared to standard rb20 brackets. will fit either way i think. i'v got an RB30DETT in my silvia and i used r33 x member which sits it even lower, so if you have dramas thats another option but you would need the turbo r33 x member and matching brackets with custom mounts 40mm high with a stud straight through or just rb30/rb20 mounts... (they are also 40mm but tend to break under the torque (depending what power you push out) since the studs are simply bonded either side of the mount...)

most likely wiring or coilpacks. sounds more like coils though. common problem. next time it starts to misfire pull off the leads one at a time and when you pull a lead off and the noise doesn't change you know it's that cylinder. then replace the coil. have you tried cleaning all the jackets? you could always upgrade to spitfires but it's not always needed.

I'm just putting out a guess. I just think that with twin turbo the exhaust housing is unsplit and maintains an optimum flow path through the turbine. wheras twin scroll just has a divider over the one turbine (divider leaves a compromised flow path) which can't be as efficient as having two seperate optimum flow paths over the turbine? twin scroll would certanly work better than one large path but not sure it would work better than two smaller seperate paths not sure if i'm making much sense: i think the next thing that is to be adopted is them size varying turbines (dont know what they are called?) from diesel truck world. as the turbine speed increases the turbine opens up creating a bigger turbine so you get response and top end! seen them but only on trucks so far

just wondering if any of you have played with the squish zones? i guess if you remove them you will still have allot more down low with the 3.0l?

Twin scroll effectively tries to offer a twin turbo setup using one turbine... twin scroll just separates the pulses untill it hits the turbine where they will collide... Twin turbos has no collission untill the exhaust, where you could infact run two exhausts and have no collission. Theoretically paralell twins will always be more responsive than twin scroll.

Not so much the material, rather the wall thickness of the pipe. Generally all stainless items will be thinner walled than mild and titanium (think mines GTR) is thinner again. thicker the wall. deeper the note. i personally prefer the thinner wall... if you have ever heard a titanium exhaust you can hear more of a bark. each to there own.

all metalics need a clear coat. be it 2pk or acrylic. unless you want to have a very dull paint which wont show much because the clear coat brings out the twinkle in metalics. you can mix clear in with acrylic after the metalic has been thinned if you wanted to but still needs clear. best results is to mix in a bit of clear with the last colour coat and then apply clear coats over that. how come your selling the paint? are you painting your car another colour now?

probably. just get the neo kit then it's no dramas?

Na man sumping the baffle is old school. these days people baffle the sump

still keen for the head...