GT-RZ

what belt did you use.

head + water pump + oil pump + oil squirters is what i need. let me know if you don't sell it complete!

i'll buy the complete head. minus exhaust manifolds for around half what your asking for the whole motor? i'm in adelaide so if u don't wanna split thats ok. easier if i get one down here.

just get a second hand loom from a wreckers... mine cost me $60. turned out that wasn't the problem it was a dodgy coilpack on cylinder one. have you tried cleaning all the jackets and lubricating them with silicone spray? Generally i would say it's more likely a coilpack. sounds similar to my problem, started intermittently and then it would come back every now and then (generally when it got a bit hotter) until eventually it ran like a boxer continuously... which is when it was easy to find out which cylinder wasn't firing and that the coilpack wasn't working... but then it could be any off the above also.... and much more..

misfiring will not be directly related be due to low compression. like said above, check your wiring loom they can get a a bit crispy and stuff up... if it's not that then make sure everything is clean and your spark cannot escape elsewhere. if all is good it's likely to be a fuel problem but i think it's wiring as my first guess would be coilpack.

Basically i have a 25 gearbox going in to s13 and i need the rb25 yoke to be on the silvia tailshaft because the silvia one is smaller (same size as RB20) i know i can cut and shut the 25 yoke on to the silvia talshaft but i was wondering if anyone has split the uni joints on these tailshafts and if its possible????

Only problem i'v ever had with coils is when one died. Not sure any of the aftermarket ones can offer a much if any greater spark unless you introduce leads in to the equation like above... before anything, like said before, clean out around the spark plug hole and clean the sleeves then spray it all with silicon spray and i can't see why unless a jacket is damaged you would have problems given that there is not a fault in the coil or wiring itself...

Anyone got any experiences with plumbing a catch can back in to the sump? is it a good idea? my sump is a 7l one with wings and along with plumbing an external oil return from the head in to the rear of the sump wing i thought i could use a Y piece and connect a return from an oil catch can i'm making to sit above the cam covers? Not going to bother venting to atmo and iv never liked the idea of putting it back in to the intake... ideas!!

can you confirm if there is any damage to the head? if not maybe some better images...

was the car inspected prior to the change of engine or did they somehow just update the details. i was told here in SA there is no way possible to register it because like said on page one. Rb30 twin cam motors never officially existed and never can. what happened to allow you to get that done?

it's for a cheap as chips r31... i will be doing the extra plates for a vl manifold or maybe a cheap one with an ext gate flange i don't know. i thought the size of the turbo would be responsive enough for a 3 litre. will be running on a vl turbo ecu and no extra management. does anyone know the comp ratio for a standard rb30e? i might infact simply weld the turbo to the manifold to save custom flanges...

I have aquired a free oil cooled Garret turbo!!! of a truck... the size looks fairly good with a 3" front and rear mouth and: Front A/R 50 - M24 B.O 4 Rear A/R 81 - M1 L.G 2 problems apart from the fact i'll have to make custom flanges to fit it. There is no waste gate internally and no opening to fit an external gate either. Anyone have any solutions apart from not use it... i don't want it to continually increase boost and then pop my engine...

ah ok! so obviously because of the higher compression the boost does not have to be as high to produce the same output power. which gives the turbo an easier life because it doesn't need to work as hard (and supporting mods)? thanks for your input. i'm decided now. to4z with 9-1 comp and i'll be using VVT also. should be a very responsive and powerful engine. cheers.

ahh, thanks for the info sydneykid, makes it a bit more clear now! hmm i'm interested now because i know to4z means more power . what kind of compression would you suggest a to4z to run atand what boost would you guestimate would be safe! thanks allot!

how that chart makes sense to you is beyond me! but thanks for the info. i think a to4z might be too laggy for what i want tbh. i read in one of the dyno examples a peak power of 470rwkw... i'm going to check that again because that's the kind of power i'm aiming for.

hmm yea. i don't know. i did a bit of reading but no flow charts. good example i found is below: link to the page with the dyno results: http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f169/gt35r...779/index3.html i didn't read enough to see what engine it was running on though!?

thanks for that. i'm aiming to get as much juice out of the 35r as possible so i guess it would be wise to go for mid 8's! wonder if CP make a piston for this ratio? back to my origional plan but with lower comp! thank's allot. ps: what is the max boost a 35r can run anyway? EDIT: read up on it. max i'v read was 40psi. 35-38psi is safe for the turbo?

i was talking to an engine builder today who said my original plans of building an engine with 9-1cr with a gt35r is not a very good idea. said i won't be able to put much boost through it. reckons if i want more response go with a gt30r... recommends 8-5cr he also said it's pointless going for forged pistons as they only help with the load the engine gets from revs (lighter, friction etc), and if i'm keeping hydraulic lifters the engine would never be able to go past 8k anyway (even though i was planning to cap it at 7k...) recommended high pressure cast pistons, prepped rods, 8-5cr and turbo depending on what i want the car for. for response gt30r is better than a gt35r unless i want more power... i know the question has arisen before but how much power do the stock rods take? i'v read a few different replies now. some said 500rwkw and someone else said 300rwkw? anyone know for sure? ideas?

first page there is a pdf you can download. covers allot of things.

gt35, low mount cast manifold, external gate... possible? don't think so but i like to dream. keep them cops eyes at bay.

what's the disadvantage of using the 3.0 litre sump? them 7l sumps look sexy too.

I'v got two RB30 blocks. One is from holden origin and the other is out of a silo. they are both different but they both have the oil/water holes drilled and taped? The silo block is the one i see in all the pictures and is what i bought seperate for my build up (other one is still in my car, was an engine transplant a while ago.) the only thing i have noticed is that near the rear of the block there is a hole that appears to have been welded shut. this hole doesn't appear to have any use but i'm wondering if this is normal? image below: (within red circle that hole is full of weld) the block from a holden doesn't even have this hole, it's just smooth??? ideas? cheers.

1/2 is just a general term, not sure you can buy imperial studs anymore anyway. i work with a mill almost every day. i don't see why it's a big job? infact id go as far to say it's an easy job. although i am interested to why you regret doing it?

what machining did you get done to the crank? isn't it nitrided? i think the conversion to 1/2" studs is a very good idea if your going for a bigger turbo too. imo.

picking up an rb30 this weekend and 25 head. just reading through the pdf file for the conversion it mentions that i need to make sure the block has provision for the oil/water return and that both lower tensioner locations are machined flat. this engine is coming out of an R31 GXE i believe. any know if this engine will have the above? don't wanna buy something i can't use.