GT-RZ

i'v been looking for one of them manifolds for ages. where to get???

Without starting another page i would like to let you know if you are shearing threads from the bolt then you are only doing so when you are turning the nut on the shaft, over tensioning. I can guarantee if you were to place a nut on the thread of the head stud and somehow attach this piece in to a tension breaker the shaft will 'neck' and separate before the threads on the nut give away. Again you have missed the point (this is not for idiots with keep on tigtning something untill the threads let go) As for the class of fit that depends on the thread and material. Anything rated over 800mpa generally will be provided with a lower rated nut and yes you are correct in saying this is due to the yield strength in the nut providing the grip. Obviously Generally the higher the UTS of steel the higher the start of plastic deformation in regards to the UTS, which is why there is such a rigorus tightning procedure with fastners like head studs (very high MPA). Obviously tightning a tensioner up correctly is simply a method of reaching a level around the maximum level of the materials elastic limit nibbling the plastic limit (providing the maximum amount of spring in the steel) which can be a hard task when dealing with hard materials as the boundary between elastic and plastic deformation are extremely close, too much tension and you permanently elongate the fastner too much rendering it useless and too little and you run the risk of the working load providing more force than it was tensioned with, creating working stress and potenial premature failure. As for 1400Mpa then that is what it is... 1400mpa or 1400 newtons per mm in laymans terms. That is all you need to know along with the area under tension to calculate the maximum load. The factory tensioners will not be rated at such a level, bolts in general due to the way they are used have much smaller loading maximums like i explained before. Again a nut does not determine the UTS, the shaft does. I found this on ARP's website:

I'm quite confused by reading your post, no! amused... Unsure if you grasped what i was saying or if you were too busy looking up google for random jibberish. Without going in to much detail i'll leave so,e brief points. First of all your opening statement is absolute rubbush. You are forgetting allot of key factors here (or maybe you never new them in the first place?) First of all a NUT is NEVER manufactured with a lower thread shear tolerance than the shaft it will be attached too. The stud/shaft always defines the UTS. (especially when we are talking about quality fastners here not some chinese plastic metal) Furthermore a bolt is always going to be inferior to a stud and nut simply due to the way it must be tightened, As i'm sure your aware off the UTS of torsional shear stress is far lower than that of the UTS in axial tension, by tighning a bolt (especialy a long head bolt) you are multiplying the torsional stress on the bolts shaft in to a far greater stress than a stud will ever get to see, the nut takes care off all that torsional force and translates it in to clamping force. I could go on but really i'v ranted this stuff on here before somewhere. As for the complicated torque wrenches, have you ever used one? Not too complicated really? What is important is how you use them, tighten then loosen untill you get minimum friction and if your a smart as you can measure the stretch on the bolts each time and tighten your bolts up the perfect way. Less torque required with greater clamping force the better, bolts are crap. period. PS: i believe ARP head studs are around the 1400mpa mark so i rekon that' splenty of strength hey?!! forget 26 head studs. They are rated almost identicallly to the 25 ones.

Here in SA i got told no way hosay! No 3 litre 26 or 25 was ever made therefore it can never be done! If you speak to someone over the phone in SA who is not sure what they are talking about maybe you will get some hope of a stroker or something but when you go and fill the forums in you will see. In all honesty though you would have to try ever branch before you really know. My mate tried three different rego offices before he was allowed to get his three day permit with his double defected car. First two were no no and the last one said ok. I dare say if you got someone who does not know exactly what is going on looking over your paperwork you may get through - i sort of believe that's what happened to mint-r33 - got lucky.

slightly off topic but does anyone know how to tell if a r34 diff is viscous or helical??? I don't know if the thing was from an auto or manual and a quick spin of the drive shafts tells me the ratio is around 4.11:1 but i hear the vicious ones were 4.8 or something so too hard to tell. Any markings as such to give the game away?

Did you look at the cam covers at the rear? the half moon rubber seals at the back ALWAYS leak, check for oil down your block around the back and sides.

Best way is too keep the original engine stock and build up another monster. I always sell my cars stock rather than modified then sell the bits off individually if you want or transfer to a different car. Never get your money back when you sell with or without mods or different engines in it.

ah nice work! I'll be in 100% if they come out like planned.

Whats happeneing with the gears? can't seem to find the group buy- probably blind i'll have another look.

PCV valve has almost nothing to do with it. The PCV valve only operates when there is negative intake manifold pressure, so unless you have a N/A it is closed apart from off boost... The factory system utilities a passage from the breathers to the intake before the turbo which allows the vacuum from the turbo to continuously pull from the crankcase. The main thread has better details, no point going over it again in here.

Don't worry about the extra weight of an RB. Silvias with RB's are tried and proven... Just look at Kuroi in his s13 RB26 and now he's been using the 2jz s13! the 2jz is about 40kg heavier than a RB. If everyone was so worried about weight distribution then go a CA18 because they are allot lighter than the sr20. Stick your battery in the boot get some alloy brakes, glass hood and guards and you start to peel off some weight you had gained.

Think we're going around in circles here? All engine cranks have harmonics to deal with. Engineers know this and deign components connected to such stresses in mind. Nissan oil pump design was a fail, period.

Actually in the case of the RB30 block it's wiser to maintain the original tensioner size. The block is not quite thick enough around the holes to allow for rb26 bolts imo. Which has been backed up by quite a few engine builders who stay with the 25 standard size (including RIPS). The clamping force provided with aftermarket studs + nuts is superior to that of nissans bolts.Generally if you look at aftermarket 25 studs and 26 studs they have the same tensile strength anyway because they both have the same minimum thickness. No advantage in using 26 tensioners unless you could only use nissans bolts. studs and nuts are superior to bolts in an application such as this. With a shaft and a nut the threads under tension stays constant throughout tightening but with a Bolt the further it is screwed in the larger the thread contact area which is more friction and more torque required to get the same clamping force. Hence why it is possible to provide greater clamping force with less torque using a shaft and a nut. The lower the thread friction the more accurately a tightener can be tensioned. That is the reason torque wrenches are not always the bees knees, preparation to the manufactures steps is key. In a production assembly it is cheaper and more efficient to utilize a bolt however... NISSAN you...

yea rust converters mainly use phosphoric acid. but generally allot of them come in stupid gels or creams and turn brown. pure acid makes it black and leaves no coating.

R34 X member on my RB with R33 alloy brackets (they looked prettier ) sat on 40mm high Nolathane mounts with ONE Bolt straight through the middle. No drilling, none of this nonsense anywhere. Bolts straight up. Here is a pic of a R33 turbo member (or series two as some dummies call it- Actual fact there is only two TURBO and NON TURBO) And here is a pic of the R34 x member Dimensionally they are one. exactly the same, there is some fabrication differences but apart from that they are the same in every way because i measured them just to check. So lets forget about the TURBO member (series two as the dummies call it) needing new holes, be it in the chassis or the member itself - rubbish. The flat mounted style is the TURBO member and the angled mounted style (same as the 32, a31 etc) is the NON TURBO. PS: You can't go lower with the a31 than the R33 because i am already practically touching the steering rack with it installed and i cannot move backwards either because the rear of the drop section in the sump will hit. as you can see by my earlier post. ONLY way is to drop the whole crossmember now. which would put my sump stupidly close to the floor.

i see it as waste of time. I'd rather do things right the first time. i'd be an unhappy man if i built a motor then to rip it out a month later because i never gave it new rings. might be lucky, might not be. i don't have the time to take the gamble and rip my car to pieces because i was lazy the first time round.

the source is full of cow mud then. s2 x member from a Toyota or something R33 s1 and s2 are the same. turbo and non turbo are different. One has a flat mount setup (turbo) and the other has the same style as a 32 with the angled mount. Anyways just clearing up as this thread was not supposed to be full of cow mud. just facts.

Crap. sorry, but he said not to post rubbish and that is. Are you suggesting the r33 s2 skyline is wider than the s1? No. have a look where the holes are in both cars and you will see they cannot be wider. There is no difference between the s1 and s2 crossmembers (well actually there is and it is that one has 4 spot welds at the top and one has two strip welds... apart from that... The confusion as always from information being passed down and down is the non turbo and turbo crossmembers. It's just the same as when you read people using r33 turbo x members with r32 brackets - it's impossible. For further information here is a pic of my engine mounted to a r34 crossmember which is EXACTLY the same as my r33 turbo x member apart from the welds i mentioned earlier . no fresh holes drilled either. It sits on 40mm nolathane mounts and cannot be moved further back on the crossmember for obvious reasons and cannot be moved down any further either as it will hit the steering rack. Any lower will require you too space the whole crossmember down.

well if you don't mind putting in a stock bottom end and having a guess if it will last then it's up too you? personally i wouldn't want to rip my motor out just because i now realize it's blowing like crap and the 20yo rings needed replacing... bearings, rings, hone then at least you have an old component motor running like new. plus doing that wont cost too much.

The tolerance issues are in the air. that's why people started making there own collars a long time ago. But tolerances are not the only issues with the pump. various problems exist and the main ones being material and design. End of the day a tooth design will be superior and hopefully using a matching material. lots of collars fit right, infact almost every aftermarket machined one from aus i have seen is machined with good tolerances. Lewisengines here in SA are a nice fit. that does not mean i will be happy using an n1 pump after what i'v seen. Rather get some insurance.

lewis engines are my choice. they are local but that's not my reason. darren told me the drift sumps @ $399 have baffling etc and the circuit sumps at $599 have a one way corridor and extra baffling etc all the sumps fit no worries, including rb's in to silvia etc. lewisengines.com.au

sorry i didn't mean to sound offensive! i was just pointing it out then backed up with some past experience! with the 32 x member the front timing cover will hit too. Keep in mind though if you use the a31 or r32 stuff you can slot the engine brackets and let it drop another 5+mm or so.

why the custom tailshaft? silvia manual tailshaft will bolt straight up with an rb20 gearbox. been there, done that. 25 needs custom gearbox x member and the 25yoke in place of the silvia yoke (doing that now)

Both can be treated to the same tensile strength. then it's the impact resistance that sets them apart. good info below: But then i guess if they are doing the tempering it's what they say goes. i'm not a metallurgist. tougher the better imo for a high toleranced gear, maybe not so important if it was a push fit or alike (driveshaft etc) keep us informed with more details, i'm keen but would like more info!

well you can use a31 x member with matching brackets. 32 x member, wouldn't bother. I used r34 x member and 34 engine brackets with custom nolathane mounts 40mm high. As for the gearbox i don't know. Personally i know that if you use an RB20 or RB30 gearbox you will not have to modify your tailshaft at all presuming it's a manual tailshaft. 25 box need the 25 yoke on the end of the silvia shaft. have fun.