GT-RZ

i like that, sounds promising. i'm happy with wet sump so long as the dam oil pump wont break!!! billet splined would be well worth any cost...

keep in mind you can see the crack now and it's cold. once a bit of heat gets in there coupled with stress from the head bolts... time for the bin. I hate to say it because id be frustrated with wasted money but next time make sure you get it crack tested first!!!!! At least you have two spare blocks for backups... better to spend less money now than having problems later down the road and ripping the motor out then..

You did it the best way too.... looks like it's still connected so the piggas with half a brain won't know the difference. And yea now on idle your computer can read the correct amount of air that's going inside the crunch and add the appropriate amount of fuel! perfect.

so we need someone to machine up some splined collars and gears for the pump

I did this to my silvia when i crashed it in the hills. joins between the rear taillights and half way down the left qtr panel... Like said above make sure you take your time with the welding... .8 sheet is too easy to warp... if you have a tig it's much easier... when your done make sure you seal the inside with zinc fortified paint or alike (and any panels that are to be spot welded back at the seams must be painted before they are joined..) It's really not all that hard if you use common sense. best for me was finding a silvia at U-pull it. so got the whole qtr for $88 . cost me les than $130 all done with spray can paint (still needs a proper paint job but...) Good that you can take some time over it, i had to get mine done in one sunday!!

lewis engines in SA do CNC head porting i think too... bit closer to home

I was referring more to the standard rb26 pump, it has more fins and flows more so by putting a larger pulley on you would simply slow the flow down slightly which is better for higher rpm driving. Probably in the middle of the two...

Could always change the pulley size with either n1 or standard to change the flow... I'd rather have a more efficient pump rotating slower...

sit in the middle mclarren style. In saying that how far back is the engine sitting... Can see this being a precise weapon when its done, look forward to more updates!

ah this is the money pit! GL with the build mate hope it goes well.

I'm looking at the same path as you. only difference being the head which is a 26. This car is primarily for drift so i'm not after too much top end. Origionally looked at highflow the stockers, twin r32 gtst highflows (as i have one and another one available for cheapo) and then started looking in to maybe just biting the bullet and going single; GT3076, 35r, t04z... quite a difference in power bands and after reading some conflicting things over the last two i was almost set. What car is your motor going in? my whole car with the 2630 should weigh in around <1200kg (silvia) so i was inclined to go for a slightly larger turbo with maybe some diff gears off around 4.11 or 4.36 which is another ball park... I'v never even had the chance to drive in a 26/30 which is why other peoples experiences are a big help!!! I think you should ditch the idea of sr20 twins and look for a proven combo (when i work out what that is....) until then, suggestions people?

Baring in mind turning a VCT off is not the same as running a camshaft that is designed to run without any form of VCT. I can see VCT having benefit on the road with stop start driving in traffic etc which is most likely the major benefit of having it. IMO correct cam choice and adjustable cam gears is more than enough. In saying this i have never had a direct comparison. Never saw anything too impressive in comparison with that HKS car either with the 26 VCT.

Off topic but since you mentioned the whole twin v single thing... In your opinion is it worth going twin scroll single or twins...? I was contemplating getting stock 26 turbos and getting them highflowed, really want about 330-350kw... (Want the maximum response for that power goal) other option i was considering was the gt3076? PS: This is a 3ltr bottom end. sorry to drag off topic a bit.

Why do you want VCT so much? Cam choice is limited anyway. imo there is not such an advantage with VCT in the first place.

I agree i should not have placed EBC in there. Some do a good job and some do not. My post is edited and imo that's the best way, unless you get an EBC that monitors boost in a similar way. With a pneumatic valve in place it cannot let any noticeable amount of pressure through to the actuator until it hits the set level then your away, which gives you no loss of boost untill you want it. Then you can keep your current actuator too as it really does not matter. PS; your right though, i never even read the first post only a couple of responses on the last page when i clicked reply... There is only so many fixes to these problems.

I think somehow we are forgetting what an actuator does? An actuator does not snap open @ 'x' preset boost level, If an actuator is rated @ say 8psi then it will be fully open @ 8psi however it will gradually open up from much lower pressure. The whole idea of an actuator is to create a linear onset of power. Simply increasing the the preload will increase the boost rating of the actuator not necessarily help with response... The only way to fix the problem and have ALL your boost hold until 'x' desired level is to fit either a mechanical one way pneumatic valve before the actuator or use an EBC (which is basically the latter but with other fancy crap added to it and in cabin control...) If you soley rely on the actuator you will never have your turbo's true response potential, however you will have a much smoother increase in power and provide your driveline with less hassle. Depends what you want.

Aftermarket 11mm Head studs have a higher clamping force and UTS than that of the factory 12mm head bolts. Like said earlier the best option is to fit some sleeves over the studs to support the head correctly.

if you end up stripping the engine pm me.

yes. I know at least one person who had done this and got regular stalling until they blocked the pcv valve off.

It's not so much the flow its relative to the air density going through your intake. The airbox separates the hotter engine bay air and allows the cooler air to direct away from heat soak. There is no reason why you cannot just make your own airbox and have a pod in there for simplicity.

Your idle will be much smoother once you block that off. Any air going in through your catch can is not read by the AFM and will result in a crap idle... You should still attach a filter as sometimes the engine can naturally create vacuum and you don't want the risk of anything getting in there regardless as it would go straight in to the cam cover (When the PCV valve is blocked off) PS: If you want to keep the PCV valve connected then you should plumb the line of the catch can back in to the intake AFTER the AFM. Then it is the same as the factory setup but with something to catch the oil. vent to Atmo = Block off PCV valve Re-circ = two options... 1, Block off the PCV valve and run a single line from the catch tank to AFTER the AFM 2, Leave PCV valve and run a line ALSO from the catch tank to AFTER the AFM The setups above that vent to atmo with the PCV valve connected will run fine when on boost because obviously the PCV valve only opens during negative pressure in the intake manifold (idle) But will have noticeable problems when at idle especially on warmer days.

Anyone know the top speed AVG for the 4.36 ratio? Even with all the torque the more response the better seems to chime in my ears... But then i don't want first to feel like a waste of a gear...

I feel inclined to comment here as you have missed the most obvious point. Clearly two turbos of equal size will spool slower than one of the same size turbo. That's not what was said. The statement was clearly made based on a judgment of his turbo making > or = potential HP and much faster spool up. Using your theory a twin turbo setup rated @ 600hp would spool up slower than a single turbo rated @ 600hp just because the twins get less exhaust gas individually. Lets not worry about twin pulse turbines for now. Lastly displacement plays one role of many in resulting turbo response/spool and saying a 26 will spool the same turbo quicker because of the tiny increase in displacement is foolish to say the least.

Do Not dig yourself a bigger hole. Have you no hazard perception>? really lets be honest for a second if you really knew this strip was unsafe then why would you 'drive it like a good strip'. You are making things worse. Accept your at fault, accept that you owe that other driver. Then do yourself a favor and rectify the problems be it the track, car or your technique. I think if you originally came on here and exposed your crash and your lack of judgment/experience and were horrified at what happened and did not immediately blame it on everything except you! Then a couple weeks later ask about more power people would be looking at you in a different light. But you didn't and the best thing you could do IMO is keep quiet for a while

1250kg with 850hp @ wheels is 8.6s Keep in mind these are examples and theoretical outcomes given perfect runs and perfect grip... Not to mention you should be adding the weight of yourself in to the equation. Here is the online calculator http://www.race-cars.net/calculators/et_calculator.html You can crunch the numbers yourself and take in to account traction loss etc but it requires effort and that calculator does not. have fun. PS: when you get your car tuned next get them to weigh it with you inside and everything else you will race with, then you know.