GT-RZ

Weight of your car would be nice... As far as i can gather a stock s13 with engine/gearbox conversion of a stock rb26 would weigh about 1250kg compared to just 1170kg of a stock sr20det s13. Then i suppose you can add on some more weight for a larger turbo setup, more weight for fuel (not counted in dry curb weight) and then with any sense take some weight off because you would have removed HICAS on a drag car... right? lets say your car weighs 1250kg anyway for arguments sake.... On a weight vs Horsepower @ wheels calculation you would be in the 8.2s range... with 1000hp @ wheels Then take in to account the traction on your previous efforts and your terrible vehicle control and try and finish without hitting someone else would be a good goal. If i were you id leave your turbo setup as is and get the best out of that. With that weight and lots of traction and good control you could get a 9 with around 600hp @ wheels according to the calculator which is not perfect but...

harmonic balancer tightened to 460nm...?

Really without a picture so people can see what you have got space wise people can not be much help. If you can't fit the snorkel just chop a hole in the airbox and run some pipe from your front bar (assuming you have a vent on it somewhere) to the airbox.

Ok i'v seen a few good stories of stock rods taking a punish and living. R.I.P.S have a few good examples. What is your intended RPM? All good examples with stock rods utilise low RPM. If you want 8-9k RPM+ with them power figures forget about factory rods. Building a potential 1000hp monster and using factory shot peened rods seems a little slack. Shotpeening can only help in hardening the outer skin and only proves of benefit on rods due to the resulting surface finish, the tensile strength of the rod remains unchanged. Dreaming to think otherwise. I would hate to build such a car and skimp on little money for such a vital component to a high revving, high power machine. And clearly with turbo's that size you will want some revs up top becaser thats where your power will be living. As for response i think a twin setup utilising 2x 550hp turbos is going to be sluggish of the line. Twins or single that size is drag car or dyno car application only IMO. PS: Makes no sense to build an engine for 800hp then to rebuild it later on with aftermarket rods going for 1000HP, no sense at all. If your that short on cash that you are skimping on rods for now forget about an engine with this power.

thanks, will take a look

looking at the graph however inaccurate it may be the yellow line twin scroll t04z setup looks the bees knees compared to the others. same response as the 2860's and loads more top end. I still can't decide what turbo choice to go for with my new build. 26/30 twins or twin scroll is the question response is the main goal but i wouldn't mind getting 350kw+ i was origionally thinking of slapping some ss's on there. be nice to have the cash and your own dyno to change them all over and pick

Which is why i asked him to make sure what was broken. I have seen sheared gear teeth before from someone who did exactly the above. the bearings in the CAS locked and it went to sh*t from there. If the CAS was installed and running then clearly the gears were engaged. Unless the CAS was literally out so far only the locator was engaged which would be something hard to miss.

I think he is saying the end of the camshaft that mates against the CAS shaft has sheared off! If this is the case then your up for a new Camshaft for sure. Are you sure it's not the end of the CAS shaft that has sheared off? Adriano brings a good point because if you did not run the timing cover then you must pull out the little spacers or get some to suit otherwise when you tighten the CAS against the bracket it will sit on an angle and too tight, almost certainly leading to failure.

maybe you misunderstood him and he was saying your exhaust turbine is ceramic and if you boost it too much you may break it.... which makes sense. because i don't think you have a ceramic exhaust and i don't think its too thin... unless you made it with coke cans Really why run the risk with the turbo? it's not like you will ever get good performance out of the stocker without modifying it... Leave it stock to minimize the chance of turbine failure. If you want performance get it high flowed or a new turbo.

You should be posting up how many k's each turbo has done. Nissan used Silicone Nitride in it's turbines which has no worries with strength under 'hi-temp' conditions regardless of hearsay... unless your talking over 1500* The main problem is age. I believe silicon nitride does not like thermal shock, they have a lifespan in such conditions and to think otherwise may cost you a re-build. I think Nissans stated period of renewal 60,000k's? Unsure. How many k's your stock turbo's have done? i Wonder... tick tick tick. As for shaft speed. Obviously the greater capacity an engine the greater the shaft RPM needed to produce the same boost (Keeping all other variables constant between engines, turbo, intercooler etc etc)

Well if your power went down after your intercooler install id be looking at that first. Personally wouldn't be buying a cheap intercooler. If you get one with crap flow resulting in a pressure drop @ the other end your turbo will have to work harder to keep the same power... Or in your case will just make less power as you didn't change the turbo boost? If your last problem at 5500rpm is fixed forget about that for now.

dual - tri - quad spark they're all around on bigger machines. I just go with what works.

First up tractive effort is a Force (Mass * Acceleration) not a Torque. You have 950Nm which is a moment or torque if you like. (Force * Distance) So who said it was tractive effort? For the answer earlier. No you can't work out exactly the engine torque from the chassis dyno. Too many variables and losses. you can however estimate it. If that is infact your Torque @ wheels (or centre of the axle to be correct) Then you simply divide by your diff ratio (4.36?) and gear ratio (1.00 if in fourth) You then have the torque @ the engine but not accounting for drivline losses which varies... You either read your dyno sheet wrong or you've got 950Nm of torque @ the wheels...

i thought they only had one? I like there sumps because it will fit in the dam silvia without a custom swaybar!!!! http://www.lewisengines.com.au/prod109.htm

I would agree with that all the way. There is allot of talent and success on these forums, be it learned from paper, teacher or experience but everyone eventually comes to there own conclusion on the way to do things. This is the reason i take most note of those who accomplish what i would like to do. If i want an 8 second drag car then i'd be bothering R.I.P.S and dirtgarage all the way - they have been there, done that. If i want a fast track car then where else better to look than the very best - tsukuba lap champions, m speed clearly are offering the best way to do things for that discipline. I use a wet sump and so do they. Any principle they think is good enough for them is most definitely good enough for me. To add to that i love the innovation of prostock it appears so far ahead and shows of what is to come. Inspiration and motivation for everyone who tries to fix there own problems. There is never right or wrong, disadvantages to every setup. It's always the way and a top class car at any specific discipline will never be top class in another. What is foolish is to turn down new ideas and bombard people with specific corners and numbers and a "i'm right your wrong attitude" those are the people that will fall behind in many ways. An open-forward thinking attitude in a discussive manner is always the way forwards in engineering. Always has been. No one man knows the best way to do everything and no idea was ever thought of by one man. In dirtgarages defence why does it matter that he has had trouble in the past? I have a saying that i always stand by "without failure there could be no success" If you don't learn the boundaries of failure you will never develop any system of control.

The only benefit i can see is if your breathing excess amounts of oil then you can return it without worrying about coming up with no oil in the sump, but i think if that is happening you have other issues to look at. unless your in a 24hour race. If you look at m speeds setup (very similar to dirtgarage) due to the position of the 'drain' from the oil/air separator i believe it would primarily be acting as a crankcase vent with the possibility to allow heavy oil (if any) that has been separated a way back down. Anything that makes it to the next can is very light and would not want to be recycled and is dumped. They have another drain specifically for oil that plumbs in to the bottom of the sump though from the head. Bearing in mind i can guarantee they will be changing there oil after every race and do not worry about any kind of premature breakdown of oil. They clearly know a thing or two since they are tsukuba champions. In saying that keep an eye out for the prostock r34 that looks very serious!!! even moved the engine back a fair way in to the firewall and have custom made all the cradles/crossmembers: My source is unable to confirm but i'm lead to believe they change their oil after every race too!

No one said that? Main reason for cams is to move the torque band to where you want it (big ass turbo that is gonna kick in late will benefit the most from bigger duration cams). Factory cams often have that torque band lower in the revs and as quite obviously power is torque x rpm /**** the higher your max torque up the rev range the higher the final power output. Hence why i don't give a crap about dyno cars, probably utter crap on the track and driving a car on the dyno aint all that fun really. And given that he only wants 260kw or whatever he said then why worry about cams when he can get a better choice on turbo components that match his target HP better. What headwork did you have done. What cams? No one said they can't aid response it's just not the best way to do it. Did you go for a bigger exhaust cam? or did you have larger exhaust valves put in? Of course this can help. He is clearly after a simple bolt on jobby. Almost all the torque you get out of your motor comes from turbo selection. simple as that really. If i wanted 260kw then id go for a turbo that is in it's efficiency range right there and cams to match, for that level i think factory cams will be alright for now.

There is a link right above you, for free. no need to Google.

If response and low down torque is what you want i wouldn't be worrying about cams too much. unless you want to increase top end power and revability spend it elsewhere for now. unless you want to rip the motor apart not too much you can do. obviously a smaller rear housing will come on boost faster. depends what your after. i'm unfamiliar with the ecu... do you have boost control? if your only relying on an actuator you could improve response with a pneumatic valve/ebc.

It could yea. did your fuel pressure get changed? what injectors do you have now? If you got a new turbo etc you must have already upgraded them? What turbo did you get? try the obvious first and charge your battery before worrying too much about other things though. Maybe with your new tune/setup your spark plugs are struggling a bit.

i'm sure it will be of use to someone...

You know bumps and bounces don't mix too well with a drag setup car... that is soft suspension and low pressure tyres. pointless comparing them to a rally car that is designed for it. end of the day what was the recommended tire pressure for them tires? not 7.5psi. That's where the major mistake was had. Anyone else try to keep control of there car at high speed with practically flat tires... i hope not. There is a difference between lowering pressure to allow some sidewall flex and ensuring a flat footprint and deflating them so they don't work at all. The second major mistake and the potentially lethal mistake for you both is directly your fault. You almost killed someone as well as yourself never mind the damage to their car. When you started to wobble all over you should have backed off immediately. The track did look craphouse i agree but what you did could have netted the same result on any strip. At least you did it on a strip and not the street which is why your posting to us, not like plenty of others who can't who are frontpage news.

how about new injectors or spark plugs? had them changed recently?

My original statement said in race application an oil drain from a catch can would have little ill effect due to contamination especially since the oil is changed more frequently. I may have said after each race, I'm not here to nit pick - more frequently than street application is a better phrase. I said race engines THEY did not. If you read back they were talking about general ill effects of having the oil drain back. not just from RACE ENGINES.!! Hence my statement: "For people arguing about oil contamination that argument is flawed in a race car as the oil would be changed after every race anyway". So i'm unclear what your original post was about? you run methanol and have zero blow-by (apparently) in your engines...

I think he is trying to say his engines have minimal blow-by hence less contamination and now that he is on ethanol he has even less to worry about. So really not much of that applies to the majority of us who are not on ethanol. In reality all engines have blow-by and in a street application where people do not change there oil as often contamination is something to be aware off. Don't think many of us get our oil tested either, id rather just do regular oil changes eh?