juggernaut1

The following is a quote from Trent in a previous thread on this topic: heres the latest dyno i will post up a table later comparing the two datalogs of inlet temp and timing. with the new gaskets inlet temps were reduced by a substantial amount, to the point that the turbo outlet pipes would were so hot they would scald and the plenum was COOL to touch after 21 runs......... if you dont believe me check our the run number on the dyno sheet The cooler charge allowed us to dial in another 3-5 degrees of peak timing throughout the peak torque and top end IGN map areas. Attached thumbnail(s) Reduced 88% 1228 x 868 (124.36K)//

Autospeed.

Why the accusations and inuendo Nismoid.....this is SAU not Facebook? Despite your accusations, and I find it funny that I even have to justify myself to you, but I wasn't holding back on any info....after my last post I searched the net and found this and promptly posted it. From memory I also recall Trent (URAS) posting up comments in another thread on this forum where he made the comment he was able to add a couple of more degrees of timing after he installed such a spacer.....thought I should mention it as I could be accused of holding that back too.

OK.....so everything you said was dribble.....yeah I missed that point......I thought this was a technical forum. Anyway here you go champ...I did some digging around and found this:

Umm......actually you mentioned the 4 -6 degree's....I just quoted you. You also suggested 2 degrees is worth 10 hp in one of your previous posts........4 - 6 degrees cooler must result in more hp ...no....are you doing a backflip on what you previously said? As for your I/C and post I/C piping getting massively heatsoaked maybe you should invest in a decent cooler. The plenum is the hottest part of the post cooler intake system and it is where the air is travelling at its slowest before it enters the runners and then the intake ports....especially in a street car.

Logically, it will be of most benefit to a street car wouldn't it? Street cars spend a fair bit of the time idling then accelerating away from traffic lights, stops signs etc where most heat soak occurs and air speed is at its lowest and no airflow through the cooler......hence the air is more susceptable to grabbing heat and therefore the greatest benefit is acheived at these times. Whether its worthwhile depends on your personal cost/benefit analysis. But previously you suggested 2 degrees and 10 hp was insignificant for a street car, ................but using your figures would potentially suggest....4 degrees = possibly 20 hp and 6 degrees = possibly 30 hp. Now that means potentially 30 hp for $80 - $100 odd dollars. Its the same philosophy as a cold air intake.....most benefit when idling when underbonnet temps are highest and diminishing effect at speed.

...one step further....consider the LS engine where the whole intake manifold is plastic...not to mention other cars with plastic intake manifolds these days........so the whole manifold becomes an isolater, which is clearly the better way to go. Remember the old skool v8's that used to use phenolic spacers between the carby and intake manifold to reduce heat soak to prevent the fuel in the fuel bowl from boiling.

I'd say its the semi slicks causing the prob and probably not tied down on the dyno sufficiently. You probably did have wheelspin but semi slicks have stiffer sidewalls than pure road tyres and therefore less forgiving and causing the shuddering you speak of when the wheel spin occurred as the semi slick could be skipping accross the roller in wheel spin conditions. The shuddering could also be a function of worn shocks or mismatched springs/shocks when wheelspin occurs particulalry when coupled with the stiffer sidewall semi's. Until semi's are hot I've always found they offer less traction than a decent pure road tyre.

Have to get back to you on the dimensions of the shroud. Fans are 2 x 12 inches.

Not directly on point but this is my SR setup using AU falcon fans with shroud and an A.R.E. radiator - I use low speed and high speed settings based on temps which are programmed into the ECU (Autronic). Temps generally around 82-84 degrees and up to 90 with aircon on in 40+ degree ambient air temps in traffic and using standard T-stat. My brothers 509 rwhp Commodore also survives with its stock twin thermo fan setup, aircon and 150mm intercooler. So clearly thermo fans have the ability to regulate temps of highish hp cars....I believe the trick is to ensure you have shrouded thermos and try to seal the shroud to the radiator with sponge rubber or similar so that it draws the air through the rad.....just like the manufacturers do. A vented bonnet would also increase the efficiency of any cooling system by creating a low pressure zone behind the rad just like all factory Evo's.

Whats the cost for 205 litre drum?

From my memory of that article their estimates were based on a 30% drivetrain loss.....which sounds unusually high...obviously resulting in the lower rwks.

Haha I see what they mean.....regardless you still seem to be doing better than most judging by your vid.

Yes it is Busky's - I was under the impression it was an 8cm..... if it was 10cm then the mid range is even more impressive. We used to discuss our setups via pm's...however, he seems to have fallen off the planet over the last year or so so don't knwo where it is at now. A pattern I'm seeing with yours and Buskys setups (even with completely different turbo setups)....use small duration intake (256) and longer ex duration to acheive full boost around 3600rpm and it seems you will nearly get 200rwks by 4000rpm resulting in a big fat powerband - bigger turbo of yours has more top end. Both these setups would have insane midrange with E85.

refer dyno for boost.

The following dyno is of a T518Z with 8cm ex housing and HKS step 1 256/264 staggered duration cam on a s14 motor running VCT. Sounds like this is what you are after. PS I also have some JWT S3 cams for sale - brand new to suit VCT s14 and s15 motors. They are a 260 duration cam and do not need valve springs refer details here. http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_...l.asp?PartID=13 I can source dynos of these cams in a 56trim 2871R on a Mustang dyno if you want (over 400rwhp) and car does 120mph trap speed over quarter.

Yes you are correct - hence with the extra power = acceleration and speed increase. I didn't want to end up being slower with lower ratio diff like what happended with my previous car when swapped to 4.11 diff with twice the rwhp....obviously gearing was too low for the power.......revved out past peak hp in 5th gear at Barbagello. Esentially my point being if you have the torque use the gearing to your advantage but it depends on what your using your car for too.

Dave, Disregard the above, saw your specs on NS.com.

Dave, What turbo / cam combo is that on your SR...looks to have 21psi by 3600 rpm which is impressive for a turbo that goes on to make 285rwkw's? Is this running on BP98?

Lol ..stock s15 does over 230klm's .....I want to be at least faster than that.

taller diff ratio = lower numerical diff ratio = higher speeds for each gear. example 3.69 is a taller diff than say a 4.11. 3.69 will haver higher speeds for each gear than 4.11 ratio and will have higher top speed than the 4.11 if the engine has sufficient torque. as a broad generalisation bigger engined cars have taller diffs because they have the torque to use the taller diff ratio.....but depending on tyre/wheel diameter

Yep ...6 speed as mentioned in my post...I also mentioned that I have taller ratios with the Nismo box....I also run taller aspect ratio tyres.....so overall I have quite tall gearing in the lower gears...which the pissy 2 litre SR has no trouble coping with. I had a 4.11 diff in another car (changed from 3.54)...sure in gear acceleration was like it was hit up the arse by a truck...... but I was that busy changing gears...I'm sure the mechanical torque advantage was outweighed by the extra time lost in more frequent gear changes. As mentioned these guys have 3 litre bottom ends ...the torque of which should more than cope with the 3.69 ratio....however.....this would also be subject to what wheel/tyre sizes/apect ratios (read rolling diameter) you are running too.

These older rally ones aren't bad either.

^^^^ Shannons Insurance

I have an s15 with 290rwks with stock diff ratio (3.69) and find its about right with that power........1st gear is useless still but second gear it starts getting traction (depending on air temp) and third is fine. I also have a Nismo close ratio box so 1st 2nd and 3rd are taller than the stock 6 speed box so they may be similar ratios to your 5 speed. To give you an idea.....my second gear takes me to around 125 to 130 klm's hr at 8000rpm....and on the dyno my 5th (your 4th) tops out at 225klm's (at 8000rpm) as confirmed by my speedo and also by the dyno chart.