juggernaut1

Here you go Dane, http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...04573&st=30

It was in "General Silvia Chat" from memory.

They may have adjusted their pricing given the economic downturn especially in the US. Actually best to confirm with Aaron Teague at Full-Race as he handles all the sales side of things - email [email protected]

OK Dane - my costs were as follows: manifold US$1449.00 2 x 44mm gates US$ 698.00 downpipe US$ 349.00 v-band US$ 25.00 3071turb/ex housing US$1271.00 shipping US$ 385.00 total US$4,177.00 AUD at $0.937 AU$4,457.79 Plus import duty AU$210.82 GST AU$556.78 charges & fees AU$68.20 TOTAL COST AU$5,293.59 Note that there is no import duty on the turbo, manifold is 5% import duty and other parts are 10% import duty Hope that helps your decision.

Hi Dane, There would also be GST and import duties to factor into the original cost of the kit....unless you bought it in bit by bit....hint hint. If you like I can pull out my records and let you know the all up actual cost of mine including import duties? You could then get a quote from Kyle for the manifold and I know he can also supply turbos and gates - so you could get a comparative kit price and do the maths. Cheers, Ian

Yes you gotta pay to play. Could be done cheaper tho' ....get Kyle (6Boost) to make up a twin scroll mani and order the 3071 or 3076 turbo and twinscroll housing from Full-Race or ATP in the US or GCG here in Oz and keep stock intake......or if using a highport SR then go the Greddy intake. Tial gates can be had from anywhere. All other supporting mods are pretty much going to be the same regardless of the turbo setup. As to the worthiness of the twin gates over the single gate version...Geoff Raicer (Full-Race) suggests its worth around 250rpm in which case you may be tempted to upsize to the 3076 over the 3071 for a cooler charge and bit more hp. The beauty of the twin scroll setup is not so much peak hp (I think single scroll turbos actually produce higher peak hp) but a broader power band and rev range which is perfect for street and circuit duties ......and also the ability to respool the turbo in on/off throttle applications faster than a single scroll setup and because of this ability it actually feels like a big N/A engine which IMO is again perfect for street and circuit duties. Regarding my setup........26 psi by 4000rpm (although it hauling by 3500rpm) and peak hp at 7700 and power doesn't taper off much at 8,000 (so its carrying torque to the red line) - so it has more or less a 4000rpm rev range which is not bad for a turbo motor. I've never had much to do with the RB20 but they seem to lack a bit of mid-range torque based on the ones I've come accross at Barbagello.....then again so did my brothers LS2 powered commodore - too slow out of the corners. But sounds like you've got it all worked out tho' - good luck with it. PS - my brother ended fitting an APS twin turbo kit to the LS2 to give it some grunt out of the corners. We've never been back out to the circuit since our respective mods but should be interesting when we do.

Actually that setup makes 26psi by 4000rpm and 290rwks at 22 psi at around 7700 rpm

Its a very good thing. 2.5 litre subi's are making very good power and torque with these on i.e. 442 lb at 4133rpm and 496 hp at 6569 rpm on a dynapck - so an RB could only be better. Check this out re the subi. http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-liter-litr...out-5-24-a.html and GT35 1.06 T4 TS housing in the flesh http://www.freshalloy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186058

Sorry, but to clarify that is a 1.06 twin scroll in a T4 size - not T3. T3 .78 IMO would be too small for a 2.5 litre especially with a GT35. IMO the .78 is just marginal with a 3076 on a SR. Twin scroll ex housings seem to need more ex a/r so they don't fall over in the upper rpm range. Thankfully they have less lag induced from using larger twin scroll housings than compared to their open housings counterparts.

1.06 available in twin scroll for GT35

Is that because your trying to sell one?

You will have anti-surge regardless of whether or not you fit the funnel. With the funnel on, the surge path comes back out through the circumferencial slot created between the outer edge of the funnel and the inner intake edge of the compressor cover as depicted in the pics in your initial post. The air will then recirculate back into the funnel mouth.

As a last resort you could try wreckers and hunt around under the bonnet of an XR6 turbo - theres plenty of heat shielding in there.

Lol.....could you imagine the cops poking around under the bonnet........what seems to be the problem officer?

In WA Auto one got it in for me and the time before that I picked some up from Supercheap .....in Canberra.....hmmm.....try Ruddy. Actually do you need heat shielding in Canberra?

Yeah I was going to say it looks a bit shabby

Seems like a few engines have there intakes ports made smaller.....another is the old school 2 litre pinto found in Cortina's and Escorts. Fill intake port floor with Devcon on race motors with big cams and torque and hp climbs. I also made twice the stock rwhp with mine using stock carby and cam with same duration as stock (268 degrees) but more lift and head porting by me with larger rimflow valves - good enough to pull faster lap times than my neighbours XAGT coupe around Barbagello and within a second of my brothers C.O.M.E built 355 stroker Torrie.

would be or should be?

We don't even know what pressure the readings were taken at so a little hard to comment on flow figures.

It is forever the perenial debate whether to remove or not to remove the quench pads.

CES 5 inch body 100 cpi cat with 3.5 inch in/out (and custom exhaust)........best made cat I have ever come accross at $360.

The supra boys do this mod too with a one way valve. However, I understand that you need to measure and regulate the amount of vaccum with this setup. Here's a link to a similar thread on freshalloy http://www.freshalloy.com/forums/showthrea...can+cans+vacuum

Yes it was a twin scroll thread on freshalloy. Geoff made one up for one of his customers which was pictured on the forum - open this thread and scroll down. http://www.freshalloy.com/forums/showthrea...ght=twin+scroll

I haven't fitted the turbo yet so I can't comment on the sound effects. For some reason I always though the noise came from the surge slot so I wouldn't have throught the bellmouth would have made much difference - no basis for this though. If my bellmouth had to be removed for any reason I was just going to grind those 4 spot welds and re-weld - not necessary to have another remade. I got the idea from Geoff Raicer. The HKS version must use grub screws or similar as those three holes are threaded.

...and here is the official HKS version http://www.hksusa.com/images_products/1307.jpg