juggernaut1

Here's a link to an old article in Autospeed which shows that Toyota have been developing a VVT turbo with electric assist...quite an insightful article showing how it compares with other technologies. http://autospeed.com/cms/A_108916/article....?popularArticle I'd suggest they sort out their sticky accelerator issues first....a Camry with a sticking throttle and VVT turbo could be a handfull

I wouldn't cut it away because as it is at the moment it is guiding air through the cooler and radiator. Cut it away and your effectively making a bypass for the air to go up and around the cooler and radiator rather than through it. Air will always seek the easiest path to flow so you don't want to encourage it to flow around the cooler rather than through it as this would be counterproductive to what you are trying to acheive. Moreover, aluminium coolers and radiators are excellent thermal conductors....the air that is currently going through the cooler in its present setup will chill/cool that part of the cooler and radiator....but will also chill the top part of the cooler and radiator because of its thermal conductivity properties. If you really need to improve things then I would consider a vented bonnet as this will relieve the air banking up in the engine bay which in turn impacts on the flow through the cooler and radiator. Or run it on E85.

When you've had and engine pulled out and pulled down 3 times before its ever fired up......then you'll have something to complain about. Second time to instal NEW BEARINGS.....not put back the original bearings Lol. Third time because I found out they didn't balance it despite requesting it to be done.

Your more likely to get rear ended with engine shut down mid corner......VR/VS 5 litre Commodores with stock fuel system used to do this when fuel levels were too low and cornering forces meant a fuel shortage and the computer momentarily shuts the engine down. I know cos I nearly rear ended my brothers Commodore when this happened. Its not like your expecting someone to slow dramatically whilst following them mid corner through the apex.....and its not the easiest place to brake or pull off some fancy steering moves once the car is loaded up through the apex.

Thanks

OK slightly off topic...but onthe topic of the Hypertune plenum.....Trent have you done any back to back testing of the Hypertune vs stock on the black top SR's?

Can't really answer your fitment questions......however,logically.....the rears may be necessary in order to maintain the correct front/rear bias via the caliper piston sizes with your stock bmc. That is the Arizona Z front/rear kit may be matched to suit stock bmc's otherwise you may end up with bias issues. These are questions Dave at Arizona Z will surely be able to help you with.

From Arizona Z site: Front US$1,395 Rear US$ 795 Total US$2,190 At say ~ 90 cents ex rate = A$2,433 plus delivery plus possibly customs duties and GST. Also their pricing may include local transaction taxes which may not be applicable to exports out of the US.

I've seen the Arizona Z kit on two cars at Barbagello which is why I mentioned them. Kingcorps s14A which recently set an IPRA lap record, and Steve Myburgs very fast 550wrhp RB powered 180sx which I believe runs in the sports sedan category. I've previously pm'd Kingscorp and he advised that he has yet to change a set of rotors after about 2 or 3 seasons of racing. He informs me you can get them locally anyway. None of these guys have problems under brakes, and in fact based on their various youtube videos, they seem to consistently outbrake or at the very least are on a par with their competition. With the $A/$US exchange rate at the moment.....is there a better value brake package out there than the Arizona Z kit?

Just email ATP. I've bought parts off them this way when they were not specifically listed on their webpage. Generally, they get back to you overnight with a response. Other than that try GCG.

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Ckeck out this link re wilwood brakes. http://www.arizonazcar.com/240sxbrakes.html

Lumpy Campbell did the original tune/original work that I didn't do. C-Red are doing the work on it now. One hold up however, I'm still waiting on an exhaust housing from the US which I have been waiting on for the best part of 3 months. The dude that arranged it to be extrude honed for me in the US sent it to the wrong address.....in America mind you....lol I'm in Australia....obviously he was trippin' on something when he filled out the delivery address . He then had to pay for it to be sent back to him...he'll then hopefully send it onto me in Australia.......and one day I should receive it.....hopefully before fossil fuel runs out!!!! No wonder that country is in a mess .

ADM s15 No not a dedicated track car....it looks stock from the outside....to try and keep a low profile on the streets....but so far I'm failing....I've racked up more fines, points loss, suspended licence etc in the last 12 months since the mods were done than my previous 20 odd years of driving. Its just a bad influence on me.....thats no excuse I know....I must get more track time. I will put the new turbo on and head to the track and enjoy it. I did most of the grunt type work such as fitting cooler, radiator, wire and fit thermo fans, battery relo, spraying engine bay where battery tray was removed, relocate fuse box, ducting, fit autronic, clutch brackets, brake cooling guides, gauges, diff swaps and basically anything that bolted on or needed modifying, or designing, such as my catch cans, washer bottle, aircon brackets, etc. I had the motor built locally and head done by JHH in Qld. My tuner did the rest and I assisted him on occassions when four hands are better than two. I run a business so I don't always have the luxury of time, as I work 6 days a week typically so I did what I could do on weeknights, Sundays and holidays, and farmed out stuff that I couldn't do or would take me too long to do as I wanted to finish the project and at times wondered if it would ever get finished. The original plan was to fit a GTRS turbo onto my stock motor, add some cams, injectors, give it a tune......12 months off the road and....this is how it turned out.....as tends to happen with most builds.

Its just a street car...one I drive on the street...occassionally...with tuning days on the circuit thrown in every now and then....and some supersprints.

I agree with the rocker opinion....but thats why the VVL heads are becoming popular on the SR's which still use a rocker setup but with a single rod going through each set of rockers to hold them into position.....plus two cam profiles activated by solenoids. Still its a rocker setup of sorts but Mazworx have proven the reliability of this setup with their engine turning to 11,000 rpm.

Lol.......I always like to get the opinions of others though as they've probably seen more setups than I've had hot dinners....but yeah I will probably try the 3076 52 trim.

Yeah, a 7.73 at 182mph is not bad from a KA24DE with manual shift.....it even sounds stock at idle Lol. Although the Mazworx SR22 is still quicker and slightly faster at 7.4 and 183mph

Dane, you will love it....if its great on a 2 litre it will be fantastic on a 2.2. IMO surging will be less of a problem on yours as you have bigger cams and bigger cylinders. As previously stated I have ex cam adjusted for better low end too which may have contributed/caused the issue.

Disco, I have both the 3076 52 trim and a 3076 56 trim turbo's at my disposal. I was going to opt for the 52 trim. I had the .78 housing extrude honed in the states...but I am still waiting to receive this from the courier. The .82 and 1.06 came out after the housing was extrude honed....bugger. Yes I have a 3.5 inch exhaust to go on. Will need custom 3.5 inch dump pipe to be made up....currently 3 inch.

OK so my car is now at C-Red for the turbo and exhaust upgrade. They ran it on the dyno to get a base hp figure before the upgrades. I get a call from C-Red and they make the comment that the car has an excellent and progressive power curve for street and circuit duties, and that the power delivery is typical of a 6 cylinder.......and that they wouldn't change a thing including the turbo!!! So now I'm in a quandry what to do.....Lol. Don't worry Dane, you'll get the 3071 turbo. They also picked up that the 3071 turbo was slightly surging as it came onto boost which is what I always suspected as the twin scroll setup seems to spin the compressor early in the rpm range....and which is why I was leaning towards the 3076 with surge ports as the logical upgrade. Another solution would be to advance the exhaust cam - when the car was initially tuned we retarded the ex cam a couple of degrees to give more low end at the expense of some top end. Also before it went to C-Red I also changed the diff ratio from 3.69 to 4.08 and the acceleration is insane. I did keep the stock diff in case I need to revert back for improved traction. PSI Parts.....my boost lines are referenced to the compressor....and not the plenum as suggested by you. Will post up developments as they arise.

Huh...they do supply the flanges and clamps with the gate. Well they ones I bought were all supplied with the gate. http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?S...tegory_Code=WGT

If you do go Tial...ATP in the US has good pricing and fast reliable delivery.

I recall Trent posting a 518Z vs a 2871R graph on ns.com. From memory, the 518Z had slightly more mid range but the 2871R made slightly more power.

CES racing did a high flow race cat for me...3.5 inch in/out 5 inch body flanged for $360.