Paul SM

Hi, I'm looking for some 235x45x17's. I've not hear of "Silverstone" tyres, what can you tell me about them, please? I would appreciate it if you could reply to me on [email protected]. Thanks

Looking for a set of four 235/45/17 semi-slick competition tyres; no more than half worn at most. Email me direct at [email protected] if you have something to offer.

Torsen (torque sensing) diff centre low mileage according to the guy I bought it from, but age unknown. apparently perfect, these things don't wear out like the clutch type LSD's price: $600 To Fit: R34 Skyline rear diffs (sadly, it won't fit my R33 because the splines are slightly different, which is why I'm selling it.) location: Coolangatta NSW, near Berry Contact:Paul (directly on [email protected]) Comments:Torque sensing differentials have several distinct advantages. Of all the differential designs they offer smoothest transfer of torque to the wheel which has the most grip. They do not lock up suddenly like a clutch-type LSD, but will lock up progressively when traction is lost during cornering or in the wet. They will not cause understeer into a corner under deceleration, like a tight, clutch-type, 2-way LSD will. They offer superb handling on wet and slippery tarmac. This type of diff allows earlier acceleration out of corners so your engine's power is better utilised. When adhesion between tyres and the road is good, these diffs behave like an open diff. Unlike clutch-type LSDs that are at their best when new but continually wear out from that point onward, the helical gears in this diff do not wear out, so handling and performance is the same throughout the life of your car. In straight line acceleration from a standing start, they will lock solid giving the maximum traction off the line. A good diff specialist can fit one of these in about 2 hours. Will email pics if required.

You may find that the fuel guage float has parted company with its mounting. This happened in my R33 GTS-t and was easily fixed.

Item: Speed limiter cut-out controller - overrides your stock ECU's speed limit of 180 KPH Age: 4 years old Condition: I have taken it out having fitted an Apexi PFC ecu, but it was working just fine. Price:It cost me $240 but will sell for $100. To Fit: R33 GTS-t Location:Shoalhaven Heads NSW Contact: Paul at [email protected]. Comments: Very useful if you're doing track days at Eastern Creek! Easy to install; wiring diagram provided.

Hey, thanks heaps for such a comprehensive reply and suggested solution. What gets me is how you blokes know so much technical stuff - makes an old (university educated) fart like me feel totally inadequate! My workshop guy seemed to have solved the problem by cutting the boost right back to about 0.6 bar on the boost adjusting valve but that was definitely throwing the baby out with the bathwater since the car lost all its sting. I was so fed up I decided to bite the bullet and get a Power FC like I was advised to do in the first place when planning the aftermarket intercooler. I found a keenly priced one over the weekend being offered by an E-Bayer with a perfect history and hopefully it's now on its way here from South Africa!. The fun should start once it arrives...

Thanks for the thought, Luciano. The car's in the workshop today so if they can't figure it out I'll pass on your suggestion...

Since installing a Hybrid intercooler as part of an engine rebuild, I find the car cuts out momentarily under normal accelleration just as it reaches 0.75 bar on the boost guage. This doesn't seem to happen if you rev it hard through the gears, then it will go to 0.75 without cutting out but won't go higher. If you try to accellerate from around 2500-3000 revs in 4th or 5th, ie, just cruising and putting the foot down to overtake, then it's a real cow, bouncing back off 0.75 as it cuts out. With the original intercooler I could run 0.8, even 0.9 bar without any such problem. I've tried adjusting the boost valve, replaced the blow off valve, the airflow meter, even the ECU, but it still happens. Has anyone experienced (and solved) this problem? I would sure appreciate some advice because it seems to be getting worse.

Going around slow corners under light throttle makes it try to do what it's supposed to do but can't, so it starts to lock but slips out. If you plant your foot it will lock up instead of clunking, smoke the back tyres and hang the tail out a bit until it grips. I have a verbal sale, with delivery planned, so too late for haggling...

Going around slow corners under light throttle makes it try to do what it's supposed to do but can't, so it starts to lock but slips out. If you plant your foot it will lock up instead of clunking, smoke the back tyres and hang the tail out a bit until it grips. I have a verbal sale, with delivery planned, so too late for haggling... Paul SM

Sure sounds just like my one-way Cusco mechanical LSD (which is up for sale). Should only happen at slow speeds, light throttle and at tight corners. Over about 60 kph under full power should be quiet. Also, if it's a one-way diff it won't happen on the overrun or in reverse. A two-way or one and a half way may make a noise on overrun as well but these diffs usually lock more gradually and are therefore less noisy on the whole. Try rotating the back wheels in the same direction when the car is up on the hoist and see what happens.

Cusco one-way diff centre out of an R33 location: Coolangatta NSW (near Berry) Perfect working order, been in the car less than 12 months Reason for sale - no longer plannng to do supersprints $700 ono (cost me $1200 from Triple S) Beware: a bit clunky at slow speeds around tight corners in every day driving but brilliant on the track. Email [email protected] for direct enquiries. Can email pics

<_< A few weeks ago at Wakefield, coming out of turn 1, my R33 GTSt produced a massive puff of blue smoke as if some serious problem had occured. Engine was momentarily fluffy so I pulled into the pits. At idle it seemed OK but the air filter box had a big puddle of oil at the bottom. Figured turbo seals had failed so drove gently home and later to Powerplay at Drummoyne. Could not get the turbo rebuilt - Garrett's said parts were no longer available so, in went a good 2H unit. Air/fuel mixture had been 12:1 at high revs so a GTR fuel pump and regulator went in too. Car now felt seriously strong and boost valve had to be wound back to zero (guage was showing almost 1 bar instead of 0.8 bar previously) - it now gives 0.75 bar at no clicks. Next time at Wakefield on 4th lap, same spot, same big blue puff of smoke. This time just stomped on it, engine cleared and car ended up doing a couple of mid 11's, so seemed healthy. But there was a catch - at the end of the day the engine was down 2 litres of oil! Powerplay now does not think it's a turbo problem. Does anyone have any suggestions? The car has done two and a half years of Supersprints but the engine sounds and feels perfect - and does not use oil in normal driving.

Has anyone had to service a malfunctioning fan on an R33 GTS-T? At Eastern Creek recently I noticed that immediately after a 5 lap run coolant started leaking through the overflow after the engine had been switched off. A quick look under the bonnet revealed that the electric motor which powers the fan (I think) could be heard running but the fan wasn't turning and the coolant was starting to boil. The fan just spun on its shaft. Where do I start to fix this?

To add to your data: Paul SM, R33 GTS-T series 1 Bridgestone Potenza R55s (235x45's on 17"x8" rims) Whiteline full suspension kit 3" engine pipe & 4" free flow exhaust, after market cat. conv. boost adjusted to about 0.8 bar DBA slotted front rotors, Bendix Ultimate pads front & rear Eastern Creek 1:54.58 (Sep 04) Oran Park GP 1:23.65 (Oct 04) Wakefield 1:12.08 (Nov 04) Wakefield 1:11.97 (Feb 05, with 1-way diff fitted but very hot day) Haven't done OP South since I got the car but did a 52.56 in 2002 driving my '96 imported Integra Type R. The Skyline has improved on all its other times but I can't be sure it would be as nimble on the short circuit..

Thanks for the advice, Duncan. I didn't know that the 2 way would be a problem. Otherwise your comment about the noise is pretty much what Alistair at Power Play Imports told me. It's also one reason I was trying Quaife but, as I mentioned, without success. Over the weekend someone mentioned a place in Newcastle that does a Quaife copy (but they didn't have the details). Have you heard anything on that score?

I'm looking for a good diff for track work in an R33 GTST - maybe a Nismo 2-way or whatever -I know I can pay shit loads of money to get a new one but does anyone have an alternative?

I fitted Bendix Ultimates front and back to my R33 GTST and they worked and lasted very well - 8 track days and about 7000 km on the road. My car took DBA 1170's on the front and DBA 1220's on the back. I don't know whether the non turbo R33 would be the same but I suggest you contact Alistair at Powerplay Imports in Sydney - check their website.

Hey, thanks for the tip, sounds like a great fix. How do I find SkylineGeoff? Paul

Thanks for your reply, Kym. That's just what I envisaged could be done but so far I haven't really tried to find someone to make it up. I did talk to the suspension guy who installed the Whiteline kit but he thought it was all a bit hard and a race preparation specialist I spoke to looked at it and seemed to think that it wouldn't really be any more effective than switching off the rack and leaving it on the car - but the weight saving is attractive. Do you think your fabricated bar works better than the switched-off rack? Paul.

Thanks for your reply. Is "redline" the brand of the oil? Is it for the gearbox or the diff or for both?

Would anyone care to recommend the best oils they know for the gearbox and diff on an R33 GTS-T? This one (my pride and joy) gets some heavy work on the track in club supersprints that's why I'm picking your brains...

You could try contacting Response Australia (they're in Victoria) on 03 9873 8999. Being a fairly old fart (57) with 60% ncd, my R33 GTST cost just $1007 to insure, even though it's got some alarm bell-ringing (for insurance companies) modifications such as alloy wheels, exhaust, strut braces. Maybe my country address helped, too (2535, on the south coast of NSW))

If you're serious about supersprints it's also worth getting a spare set of wheels and fitting them with street legal competition rubber such as Dunlop DR01's (or 02's) or Bridgestone Potenza 540's. They're worth atleast 2 seconds a lap on most circuits. Gordon Leven Tyres at Emu Plains sells Bridgestones and Gary's Race Tyres at Blacktown sells the Dunlops. My 540's are 235x45x17 and cost $360 each. Of course, if you're prepared to buy competition rubber you'll get the most out of it if you install a suspension kit as well.