bumble_bee

i too got a broken bolt on the turbo-to-front pipe.. and it wasnt evan me who broke it.. anyways i blew my turbo yesterday.. well not blew..no smoke and i can still drive... just really really loud bearing noise...lol i didnt get the car home, till lik 6ish.. and i started removing intake pipe, heat shield etc.. straight away... i got the 2 top nuts off the turbo that hold it to the manifold.. and 3 that are on the side that hold the exhaust/front pipe.. but my mate decide to have ago..and he broke one.. anyways..i was thinking about drilling it out while the turbo is still in place.. would this b a good idea?? i believe i can get a drill in there.. but any ideas or tips would b great im getting another turbo put back on so...aslong as i dont destroy the front pipe..i should b ok.. oh yeah..is there any real good removal help guide for turbos for rb25det or fitting guides that anybody knows off?

i too got a second idle air control valve.. i always replace it..wen i clean my throttle-body..which is like every 3-4months.. or wen i notice my car is idling pretty pretty bad.. seem to fix the problem straight away... but thats only far an idle issue.. for bad misfires around 4000-5500rpms.. wat fixes 33's with rb25det are.. u either got to replace the ecu..with an aftermarket one..lik power fc..etc.. or run a piggy-back..lik a afc.. im running a apexi neo afc.. seems to fix the problem... its because of R&R's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! do a search..its a very very common problem on the rb25det... some people say u got lean out the fuel about/around 4000rpms onwards.. becoz of the r&r that ecu does... as for plugs.. get use to changing em.. coz rb25det kill plugs.. they dont burn oil or coolant... they just kill plugs...lol oh an another thing... a aftermarket fuel pump.. it should also fix slight hesitation in the rpms.. so try an get one... if u havent got one already... wat mods have u got anyways?????????? hey MBS206.. so if u got spitfire coilpacks.. u reckon u should run a 1.1mm gap... not re-gap them to .8mm? is that correct?

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i must be the only guy on sau wit an hdi boost controller... price update..the gizzmo ebc went up to $299 on the modyourcar website...

yeah... sounds lik fuel pump.. i had the same problem wit my 33...

sounds like either fuel pump or dead o2 sensor.. well my o2 sensor died..it went into limp mode..and i could rev past 3000rpms.. i had a topic on lik a year ago.. anyways it was just after i got my apexi neo afc fitted..so yeah.. have u had any mods just fitted??? what fuel pump do have anyways?? but that was a few months ago, u did that test right?? and i just changed my fuel pump to a gen. walbro pump... but i only notice it was started to die..wen going around trun pretty hard... and having more than half a tank of fuel..and it was jumping..but only for lik a second.. and then there was like some little hesitations during the rev range..now and then but now with new fuel pump.. problems are gone

yeah, ive got a cheap local fit fmic.. i regret it now.. coz it does look poorly made.. compared to the hks/trust, or hdi/hybrid intercooler that a few of my mates have got.. and the welding and the quality of aluminum used to make the product stands out! i bet it better for performance too!! but u will hear people sayin.. "why would you pay $500+ just for an intercooler, wen they are made in china" well thats what bein going around..evan japan brands..some people are sayin they are made in china,, correct me if im wrong,, but apart from than that.. the only thing i got thats china aswel.. is a replica greddy rs bov..which i got off ebay.. and i got say wen i got it..it looked just as good as the real thing..and sounded sweet.. but a year later..the spring is fu%k3D..and it wont open as much anymore.. the adjustable valve is like jammed/stuck.. i evan took it apart to try and fix it it..but still no good... inside look like pretty poorish material.. like the dual springs and the seals used in this china replica.. and wen seeing a real greddy rs bov inside..u can see the difference of interial materials used... i know what bov im buying next hope this helps...

i got a multimeter onto the the wires... it was reading 12volts on battery and 12volts on ignition... wen either on just acc. or wen the car was on. is this correct?? i finally got it holding boost.. the solenoid must have it own vacuum line to a pressure source.. and MUST NOT be t-piece between any other vac lines!!!! i also finally got the "select" light off... the problem i had before is that wen i turned the car off, it remained on all the time... now it just light up on wen i turn the car on... and only "low or " high" boost lights work the only problem i have now.... lol is that i dont have a beep/sound when selecting low or high boost setting? i was speaking to a Hdi representative or sales-person on there online help, via chat.. which can be done through there web-site... http://www.hybrid-power.com/ they said it should makes beep's..when selecting boost settings.. he said i might of fried the micro-processor... has anyone else got any ideas or had similar issues with power/ignition volts on an ebc???

k..ive got it mostly sorted.. ive re-wired the the power to the cigar lighter...and left the ignition wire to the blue wire... and re-earthed the ebc... seems to be working now... but does fluctuate abit on my hks boost guage..

na not sure on the vac-lines sizes.... just a guess.. the vac lines to the boost solenoid.. well internal diameter would be around 6mm..?? overall hose diameter would be about 11mm?? just a rough guess anyways...

vac lines are pretty thick.. should i measure both battery and ignition wires? oh..and wat voltages should the ebc unit actual require? has anyone had this problem...where the ebc unit isn't getting enough power??

yeah..it seems like it does it automatically from time to time ive noticed..lol

well..i just bought a Hdi sbc type-d boost controller...of hdi on SAU... i believe its a dual solenoid...?? but i just got it lik 3 days ago.. havent got it running rit, as of yet.. but i do got a topic open.. and hoping someone can suggest on how to help me fix my problem.. but other than that.. it seems so far like a VERY VERY VERY good money for valve & performance part for any turbo car simple and easy to install..

my second post list my mods.. thanks for the info... ok..well i got a new seperate vac line to the hks gauge now.. and i got a seperate vac line from the fpr to the back of the hdi ebc controller... and i took it for a drive..but no difference.... so it wasnt the vac problem.. the only other thing is the wring now... the hdi controller comes with a harness that u got wire..... pretty much, all i had to wire was... red - connected to Battery. blue - connected to Ignition. green - connected to earth. there was also a few other wires..(but only are use for opional Hdi products!!!!) orange- optional Hdi pressure signal out for hdi boost gauge/Co2 spray unit. purple - optional Hdi turbo timer. grey- optional Hdi High Octane Mode Switch. so all i had to wire was the top 3 wires only... i had wired them to my cd player deck wiring... coz my controller sit underneath them... so i connected.. red - to red battery(power) blue - to Yellow(Accessories/Ignition) green - to black(earth) its gota b correct cause the unit lights up and all... one thing i do notice... is that the sound when changing between low & high boost setting.. the sound or beep it makes fades in and out.. and sometimes it doesn't make a sound at all!!! but lights switch & stay on..and they dont dim out or anything.. just the sound or beeps dont work now and then... so my mate reckons the ignition wire/connection isn't getting enough power! and that's y its not holding boost, and thats y the controller isn't working properly!!! can this be true??? more info would b great...thanks again

Yeah, im gonna get some more vac lines during the week... and i'll try connecting my hks boost gauge to the stock boost gauge vac line.. well, ive just blocked the t-piece and now im just running the vac line to the ebc only. and not to the hks gauge..I'll c how she goes.. and i'll b using the stock gauge.. plus does anyone know what "+ 7" on the stock gauge means??? lik is that 10psi/ .8 of a bar..or wat???? lol

any more ideas?

its a normal skyline thing..u'll get use to it... ive also got atmo greddy adjustable bov..and a atmo bov WOULD cause bad idle... mine is set-up to hard setting..to prevent roughish idle... the last thing u can do is take off ur idle air control valve.. spray it down wit carby/throttle-body cleaner..wipe off all the carbon.. and put it back on.. also adjust the screw on the side..will adjust ur idle..either up or down...so yeah... just letting u no

well my mate had a look..he said everything looked good...except... he reckons it coz i spilt the vac line that goes to the hks boost gauge..and how i cut that and put a t-piece in-between and ran a vac line to the back of the electronic unit... im share a vac line from the fuel pressure that org. went to ONLY my boost gauge...but yeah..that wer i placed the t-piece... does anyone reckon that also could b the fault??

ok..well i have manual bleed valve off the car..so yes the stock solenoid was taken off the car wen i put that on..and my car adjusted boost like normal..and i was running any wear between 8 to 13psi...or wateva i want it to be adjusted too..and it ran fine... i try playin around wit it.but i noticed one thing...wen it boost it goes up to 15psi..then drops to like 7... and thats with the low setting on.. but if i turn the low setting to max..or evan high setting..it does the same thing... it hits the same max boost then drops.. thats wat got me puzzled its like the boost solenoid isn't working,,, i checked vac lines..to the harness..to wat i connected the power/earth and ign. ...its all fine.. and checked the vac into the back of the controller..thats fine too... its getting power and all..the lights are on..it makes a sound(beep) wen i switch between high and low boost setting... ive connected a T piece in-between the boost gauge..which was place inside my drivers footwell...so i only had to run a small-length vac line to the back of the controller... that line is org. form the fuel pressure reg. its fine to have a single vac line which connects to 2 different items rit?? my engine mods are only fmic, cai, spitfire coilpacks, re-gapped plugs, hks cat-back exhaust, hks atmo bov, apexi neo afc & ive got a HKS boost gauge... anymore ideas would b great..

have a look aswel at Hybrid/Hdi intercoolers...models are GT, RS and MONSTER..i believe anyways.. spoz. to b very good...and good money for valve

sorry to here dude..i'll keep a look out..

hey, i just fitted to my r33 a Hdi ebc type-d se... anyways..i took it for a drive around the block..wen i put it on low setting..and set it to lik 8-9ish psi..it would boost to like 15psi then drop down to the set boost level... so in other words..its not holding... i had a manual turbotech bleed valve before..and that wouldnt boost past 1bar! stock ecu...plus i still got stock turbo so i knew there was a factory limit.. but how did the hdi ebc get past 1bar? if anyone got anymore info..that would b great.. thanks...

I AGREE..IT REALLY PISSES ME OFF!!U CANT SCROLL UP OR DOWN AND READ ALL THE COMMENTS NOW!!! WAT THE HELL..IF ANY BODY CAN CHANGE MANUALLY LET US KNOW.... sorry bout the caps..but this compounded threads is crap!

anybody gona answer ma question??

yeah, my fuel-pump was slowing dying ova the year.,, well u could feel that wen pushing hard on throttle it wasnt the same.. then some days in the morin wen turning...and if i planted the throttle.. it would hit lik 4000 or 5000rpms..around der.. and lik feel like boost cut.. "lik ur pushing a brick wall" so anyways..i just replaced my fuel pump with a gen. walbro kit..rated to 550hp..great fit..easy install... and now..no more issues.. hope this helps..