bumble_bee

sounds lik it could be ur speedo gear aswel.. usually it in the side or top of ur g/box..then the cable runs to the back of the cluster unit.. but dont no if 33 electronic ones or cable ones..neva had to pull mine out..sorry as for ur power steering issues...hav no idea..has the belt snap?lol had to ask.. umm...any error codes on ecu?? wat modes u got anyways? an is ur car an auto or manual??

hey i got a '96 33gtst wit mild mods.. wit around 260hp at rear wheels...and i got about 110,000k's on the clock,,, so i was thinking of switch to full synthetic oils... im using penrite 10-50 rit now... so would oil would be a good change ova wit. castrol edge 5-30 or motul 4100 turbolight is what ive bein looking at.. but ive only started looking... but any advice would b great.. oh plus... do i gota do an engine flush? or can i put the oil straight in, without running into problems? thanks

grey is earth... and brown is power.. well thats on a 33gtst... i cut the grey wire... i grounded mine to sum bracket... works lik a dream...

well i just fitted a gen. walbro fuel pump..rated at 550hp.. its like half the size of my stock fuel... it was the BEST fit...and i didnt think it would..but wen i saw the pump..i was lik wow!...lol which is way smaller than an bosch 040!!!!! but i drive a gtst... But i was gona buy a tomei one..its lik an extra 100ish bucks... but its really up too u.. it fix a lot of flat spots after installed too..

hey, just wondering... but are all gtr's tanks plastic?

hey, wen i got my afc neo installed on my 33..by a tuner...and tuned. lik 3day later my car went into limp mode.. i couldnt evan rev it past lik3-4000rpms..lol i had to reset my afc..so i could drive.. then lik the next day i booked it in at another tuner to get it checked.. they said they tuned it way wrong..pretty much no idea.. and they installed it wrong! plus my o2 sensor was dead... my mate drop it off at the tuners the first time.. they said i had all sort of bugs/issues in my ecu... but the second tuner i went to said just get a new o2 sensor.. and dont go back to that other place...lol

stock ecu does have a boost limiter installed... i believe from experience it is set at 14.7psi or 1 bar... but not sure on the r34 gt-t but that's what it is on a r33 gts-t...

yeah, i tht the same thing wen i got my whiteline front sway bar kit.. no drop link kit..lol but thats how they come.. anyways it felt so much better with the swaybar upgrade ay! best money spent on the suspension eso far i got an extra-heavy duty non-adjustable swaybar... i think from memory its 27mm... still to get the rear done..i just want less understeer...and its pretty much gone! wat u end up getting?

does anyone know who sells alloy ones?

i know this..lol but the stock ecu does have fail-safes.. and ive felt em before... as long as ur not giving ur car absolute crap.. and ur just testing out ur new levels.. then u should be alrit.. but a tuner is definite the way too go.. as long as you fine a good one

oh good question..lol well as far as i know..R33 have super hicas..which is the same as as 32GTR.. this runs off a electric motor...and i Nissan used KYB motors... have a look under ur car and see if you can see these motor on the hicas unit behind the diff... the motor should have a sticker on it.. sounds like u need to run a diagnostics..there is a way to do it..just search...

so let me get his rit... VCT would kick in around 5500ish? rpms... and boost would be around 3000rpms.. so more fuel is required around here... and ive been lead to believe that around 4000-6000rpm's is wen and R&Rs would kick-in.. so the ecu would dump more fuel in... so on the afc.. u would drop it around -5% through-out that rpm range on high throttle.. so Tangles..did u put more fuel in? thats probably why ur car felt a bit laggy.. try doing it my way.. and she how she feels..

power-steering fluid is only relevant to r32gtst... im pretty sure 32gtr use super hicas.. which comes standard in 33gtst onwards.. so its done by an KYB motor..not hydraulic!! correct me if im wrong... so pwr-str fluid wouldnt have anything to do wit it! sound lik u need to do an hicas diagnostics..

you cant put an z32 on a stock ecu.. sounds lik R&R to me..ive got the same problem..wen could or hot... i got a afc neo(untuned)..to try lean out my fuel abit.. so i drop the fuel from about 4000-6000rpm..wen R&Rs kick in.. and dependin on wat boost ur running too.. this was mention by SydneyKid "It has been my experience that RB25's run a little lean down low in the rpm range (Nissan do this for fuel economy and emissions) and a lot rich up high (Nissan do this to protect the engine). So I have to increase the voltage (using the SAFC) up to around 3,000 rpm and decrease the voltage over 5,000 rpm. The real problem is in the 3,000 to 5,000 rpm range as the engine comes on boost. They really need lots of fuel very quickly in this area. This can mean that you need to increase the voltage (that the ecu sees) over 5.1 volts to get the right A/F ratios. The ecu then goes into engine protection mode, rich and retarded (sounds like a girl I knew once). Past that rpm you can start leaning it out as it runs too rich, so the voltage needs to be turned down under 5.1 volts. The ecu sees this as the engine not needing protection mode any more, no more rich and retarded. So you get good performance up to 3,000 rpm, then sluggish from 3,000 rpm to 5,000 rpm and then good performance from 5,000 rpm and over. The SAFC may not help this, in fact as explained above, it can in fact make it worse if the tuner is not switched on to this stuff. With bent afm voltages, the ecu (tricked by the SAFC) also fires the ignition to suite the airflow it THINKS the engine is getting. This is not a good thing as you generally end up with ignition that is too far advanced in some rpm ranges. The poor tuner has to juggle the SAFC settings, so that the A/F ratios are OK, the ecu doesn't get into rich and retard (engine protection) mode and the ignition timing is not too far advanced so as to cause detonation. My experience (I am not a good tuner) has been that this is full of compromises, sometimes you just can't win and have to reduce the boost level a bit to get even a reasonable compromise. Keep in mind that this explanation is very simplified to make it fit in a reasonable space, the rpm's used are rough guides only and every car is different. " but ur answer is aftermarket ecu... but wat mods u got? but check the obvious lik plug gapping..clean ur afm with some good electrical cleaner...coil-packs? hope this helps...

oh and ur mate wit the 180.. yeah..he did get the cheap/basic pads of that brand.. i beleive its ferodo excel?? correct if im wrong.. but i believe der equal to bendix GCT...which are about $50bucks

the fronts i know are DB1170ULI or is it just UL? dont pay more than $120 here in perth.. i payed 100incl..but that was trade.. try " Perth Brake Parts" there in welshpool..ask for michael..9451-9455 he drives a vl turbo...so he's pretty the best guy to talk to down der.. he can answer ur questions about most different types of brands aswel... umm i think they wanted $115 or was it $120 for em..which is alrit.. but ring around..like ur local repco store and brake store..and c wat they sell em for too... the part numbers are on the bendix website..but theres no GTST!!???? i was like wat the f%$K???? but its the same as the GTR section..so yeah hope that helps.. na, havent tried SRT..is dats the yellow box?

yeah, ive heard of project mus....heard there great..but arnt cheap for everyday use...lol

hey, i just changed my front pads on 33 last nit..lol and i had compliance brake pads too.... i just used bendix ultimates(purple box) and now she brakes like a dream... i seriously had like 5-6mm left on my front pads before.. but i could feel that the pads i had wernt doing der the job as they wer a year ago.. it felt sloppy..and i had gen. pads!!!! and i just bleeded my brakes lik 2 weeks ago..to hope to fix the problem abit.. but no good.. so in the end just ended up getting new pads:) well from wat i heard..trade price anyways are around... bendix gct - $50-60 bendix ultimates - $ 100-$120 Ferodo Excel - $60-80 Ferodo DS3000 - ????? EBC Greenstuff - $200-250 EBC Redstuff - ?? Endless - ?? Lucus - ?? so what i heard lucus is the best money for valve.. but bendix ulitmates are pretty good and are cheap.. but everyone got der own opinion... hope this helps...

u dont think there i think its bomex skirts? does that sound rit? well does anyone no who sells them in aus??

hey toshi, siddr20 says its $400?? is that just for the daughterboard data?? coz.. im interested in getting one of ur remap boards.. but yeah.. so what the deal? you send me an R33ecu, with a daughterboard installed with tuned data? for $700-850...and then i just send mine back to you...that correct??

so what skirts are on the silver one?? by the way, can some tell me wat skirts and evan what bumper is on this 33 pic that ive attached.. thanks

yeah, im in the market for a aftermarket ecu too.. power fc is pretty pricy..well i reckon then u gota get it tuned.. so here perth, u'll be looking just under the $2000grand mark.. and afew place here in perth do nistune..but NOT for R33 YET!!! hyperdrive, perthz,c-red etc..do nistune...for most models..but yet nothing for 33's i rang a few..and asked if i could use a r32ecu and remap that wit nistune... but still no go... now my only option is to get an rechipped r33 ecu from "toshi" from the east..for around $400..no tuning required!!! but i still need more info on this ecu... now if you go to the nistune website.. www.nistune.com it talk about in the faq section.. "Unlike any other type of daughterboards available for Nissan vehicles on the market, NIStune boards are the only real-time tuning solution available on a single small standalone board. Once initially programmed, the NIStune board is permanently installed in the owners ECU (engine control unit). The ECU can then be tuned on a dyno via either the USB connector for Type 1 boards or Consult port for Type 2-4 boards. Combined with the powerful user friendly NIStune software, real-time monitoring, map tracing and tuning is quick and simple" but from what i read on other topics "toshi" R33 remap is done by daughterboards... another thing..that drdrift uses a Japanese EPROM board ECU??which can use nistune!!!!!!and works wit R33's!!!!!!!!! can someone please compare these two...... is nistune the way to go?coz u CAN get re-tuned by local tuners... more info on this would be great thanks

yeah, ive got an apexi neo afc.. its great..good if dont have a aftermarket ecu yet..does the job of leaning out those R&R to get a bit more power etc. plus on the neo its got declaration aka. DEC AIR.. which is good for afm's i dont think none got maps..?? not sure about safc 1 or 2???? more like settings.. example... hi throttle AND low throttle %'s at certain RPM's you can change the signal from the afm. i believe on PRO mode you can have up to..i think its 12RPM POINTS.. so example.. 500RPM..750RPM..1000RPM..2000RPM..2750RPM..3000RPM etc... and then you just input ur setting at that rpm point on either HI/LOW throttle points.. and you can adjust the hi and low throttle point aswel. lets say 30% low throttle & 60% is high throttle.. hope this gives u abit more info... do a search.. good luck..

Hey can someone tell me the make or who make these front bumpers on these 33's... thanks the first picture is of a r33 gtr..but it doesnt look like the standard gtr bumper..but centre open-vent area looks larger than normal???? the second picture is of a R33 series 2, but looks like a standard S2 + molded version of a BN style bumper..hence the standard stock fog-lamps &turn-lamps?? the last bumper picture is just a standard R33 gtr bumper correct??or is it a trust gtr type? image.php.jpg

well my definitely a steel single blade/fin wheel and it says 45V3 and i drive a 96 series2 R33.. so yeah