bumble_bee

i agree as above.. and lag can also be created by the length of intercooler piping.. wrx seem to get more lag wen fitting a large fmic... skylines dont get this problem..and if u think u are getting lag, its becoz u need more boost!!

leeboi33 if you think ur new oiled-up pod is is causing problem.. try using some good electrical contact cleaner from ur nearest bunnings/auto one store.. and give ur afm a good clean.. do a search..theres heaps of tips on sau..

yeah, got a gen. nissan belt..

does it surge? or does it feel like it pull evan harder at around 4500rpms? could r&r...and possible of th vct kickin in.....

how much boost can the stock turbo take? i believe 14.7psi..but thats on the stock ecu... but what about if u had a power fc..??? lik in "Dani boi" case... well, i still got stock turbo..a few mods..and running a apexi neo to adjust my a/f ratios.. and i cant put in that much higher of a % off fuel into the car on the rev range... example.. +10% etc.. would easly push max air-flow... becoz my a/f max'es out!! so yeah... a z32 afm would help... and the stock afm is restricted to an amount of power... and he believes he has 270hp.. and i too have around 250hp.. and on stock ecu... so a new afm wouldnt hurt.. cold be a fault fuel pump...or something along those lines aswel..

i rang hyperdrive in WA, hey told they dont have the setup/software etc. to remap a rb25det(R33) he told me that the people that made up nis-tune, wer working on a way to remap rb25det... and i asked him if i could uses a rb20det (r32) ecu, but he said that the harness/plugs are totally different.. becoz i've heard of people in the east doind this.... dont no about this??? so if someone can confirm this.... but u would also lose the inlet VCT... so yeah... but someone plz confirm this... thnx

oh ok..wel i'll try wedge a small screwdriver into the lock.. like the picture u took.. and c wat happens..

yeah, there is a boot switch.. its on the boot lid... if u take those to plastic clips out u'll c two wires from a harness that goto the actual boot lock.. there it grounds itself.. so it does act like a door swtich

yea..i was thinking that but me and my mates still recon it that in my boot lid... wen u unplugged ur harness does ur interior light/door light turn off??

yeah, mine looks the same.. but y wedge a screwdriver into the lock? lol i dont think the lock is earthin correctly on mine... so mayb if i could figure out how and y? i could fix it.. mayb i should try earthin one of the wires... but i unpluged the harness but nothin.. problem still there... wat do u think the earthin point is on the lock?

umm..ill check it out but im pretty sure its working.. um.. i did found two wires under the boot lid carpet..which go to the lock.. and the black rubber tip on the end is kind of worn... :| is it spoz. to have any metal exposing on the tip of the boot lid lock? because it looks like on mine that the black rubber tip/cover has worn off... but can anyone tell me wat these two wires to do?

so r33's have a boot switch in the actual lock itself???? ...k i give it a look.. coz i did notice that my boot light stays on!!! i can c the light beam onto my rear window at night... so i had to remove the little wedge globe.. and ive had it out ever since, plus my interior light is always set to off..otherwise the light will remain on forever..lol and ive had this problem for a while.. maybe my sub going off knock a wire lose or sumthin... i checked the bonnet alarm switch, seems fine, and i gave it a clean wit electrical contact cleaner.. and i checked both door switch pressed them in and out, took them off etc.. no good, door light remained on, and interior light will still remain on aswel... but i tried finding the switch for the boot but no luck..and no one knew either... but yeah..thanks but i'll take a look =) does the boot lock have a wire coming out of it or anythin? and its on the boot lid on the actual lock on the rear panel??? more information on this would b great.. thnks

so guys...did u fine or solve the problem???

problem still here... any more ideas?

oh ok..thanks heaps.. but its definitely not the turbo.. as from what ive bein listing too..it one of the belts... is the clutch fan ever meant to turn off on a rb25det? or does it stay on all the time while the engine is running.. coz its running off the alternator belt aswel... is the belt adjust the same as on the power steering and air-con belt??? but if anyone else has had the same problem.. wen their car reaches normal operating temperature and hears a squealing/squeaky sound can u please inform of how u fixed this... thanks

just a noob question... but isnt the clutch fan ment to turn off like after awhile??? or nope becaoz it on the same belts as the alt. belt too. . so yeah?is it meant to turn off wen it gets to a normal operating temp? becoz i just got my timing belt done..and i notice the next day, i can hear a squeaky sound from the front part of the engine.. so i assumed it was my timing belt... but now being lik 4 days later..i dont think it is.. i think its the alt./fan belt but could pwr str belt.. or air-con belt... but unsure so far... but one think i do notice is that the sound(squeaky sound) only appears to heard wen the enigne is at normal operating temp... any ideas

i notice my alternator/fan belt is may a bit a bit tighter than normal.. so it actually mit not b my timing belt.. because if it was the timing belt wouldnt i hear it winning cold to hot(normal operatering temp) but i only hear it, wen the car is warm/hot. so yeah?? im thinkin fan belt...?? i notice on the alternator that theres a bolt on it that seems to pre-tensioner adjustment for this belt.. so which bolt actually looses the belt...??? theres too bolts above the alt. i think one holds it in place the other adjusts... is this correct? any other forums or details on this would be great..thanks

yeah, that sounds rit... some people reckon that havin the belt to tight, after a while the sound goes away... can somebody verify this?? i mite take the top timing cover off, just to make sure that is the problem.. because i dont want the belt just coming off wen drivin..u no..lol could be ur belt is too loose aswel?? so the only real way to tell is take the cover off and have a look.. and if its too tight, or too loose, i believe it would may too different types off noises too.. but ive only notice my sound wen the engine is warm(normal eninge temperature) not wen car is dead cold.. any more ideas???

i have the same problem.. from what ive read.. people are sayin if the belt is too tight, after a while a few k's it will loosen and problem solve.. it seem's to be that problem..becoz ur old belt did around 100k's correct? then that belt would have stretched over a period of timing.. so wen a new belt was fitted it would be really tight.. causing the noise that u can hear.. well thats wat they reckon.. i'll try an find out got mine done yesterday at a nissan dealer ship that i work at.. and my mechanic mate did the job too.. and i watched him do it. he did it just over 2 hrs with the radiator still in place =) and i used a genuine nissan belt too... so yeah gates belt wine..so ive heard... but could be the timing pre-tensioner going..lik in the nissan rb25det workshop manual, it recommend u replace the spring inside the tensioner at every timing belt service/change.... so it could be this aswell...wear and tear...

y use standard bov? wen new atmo bov is fine?

ive got a atmo bov.. stalling is not the issue.. i had that problem fixed on my second tune by speedworks in perth..never stalled again from having an atmo bov =) i just got idle problems..now and again they go away for a wekk to months..then bad all over again etc.. and i ve tried everything..from cleaning afm, checked plugs/changed plugs etc..ive got spiltfires aswell.. umm...cleaned the iacv..used forton throttle body cleaner to clean throttle body etc.. so yeah..pretty much everything dont tell me to get a new ecu..coz i knoe..and i will but for now , hopefully i can fix this problem.... just like any other r25det..lol so my main problem is.......> but sometime wen i clutch in the revs drop straight to lik 500rpm and wen turning it can drop to pretty much 100-200 rpm..coz of the power steering.. so i believe this setting will help wen slowing down and wen i clutch in etc...

pouring boiling hot water over the hoses ur about to pull off help the best!!! or evan recommend a hoses seperater..

hey, i got an apexi neo afc fitted to a r33, just wondering if anybody else has got the same.. coz my dec setting wasnt tuned in by the tuners.. so any info would be great... from what it display's it says... THROTTLE is set to "off", the NEO1 is set to "800rpm", and NEO2 is set to "1000rpm" so..does this mean NEO1 is low throttle settings? and NEO2 is high throttle settings? and when select throttle..from "OFF"...then goes to "0.1%" all the way to 100% if u set it there... its not a on/off type selection. so yeah.. confusing..lol any ideas would be great, thanks

but will having a z32 afm/q45 afm help solve idle issues???or any other issueS??? or nope...lol or will it b just a bigger afm, so u dont max out ur air flow %... correct?

called hyperdrive yesterday, they said they dont do nistune for a r33 yet!!!! there still in development for rb25det engines.... and u cant use a rb20det ecu, coz the pin/harness is different... or they just wont do it, not worth it? or maybe too expensive???? plus u lose VCT.. so yeah any more ideas????