W1ngnut

Thats crazy Ben! Glad to hear that you have it sorted though. Uncontrollable boost is such a worrying thought, mine has settled on 15psi wastegate 17psi low and 19psi high. Just getting a Metal Cat delivered tonight as at the moment, its a little empty inside. Hopefully it won't make a huge difference to the tune or the boost!

Spotted an awesome looking Black R32 on Mugga Lane yesterday arvo, gave a wave, got a wave. Awesome looking car if you are on here!

I'd love to come out to this one in the R33 but already busy. I haven't had a motorkhana run since just before selling the Liberty RS. Would be a good competition to see whether Reece or myself can provide more smoke

On my eBoost i get audible alarms saying i'm overboosting, but that is only because my eBoost is very very VERY inaccurate. It says i'm running 21psi when i'm only running 17psi. I am starting to think that it is because the standard boost gauge line off the back of the manifold is just too small and isn't giving its true reading to the eBoost. I got my car back last night supposedly all fixed, but I am yet to be able to confirm or deny if it is due to the wet roads. It definetly feels better and stronger. We changed the dumppipe and took the cat converter out and took some preload off the actuator, the lowest setting we could achieve was 15psi. 17psi low boost and 19psi high boost, supposedly no longer climbing any more. Will update the thread when the raining stops. On a side note, is there anywhere else to plumb a boost gauge? I have one boost gauge (accurate) running off the FPR line, and the eBoost running off the standard boost gauges line but its quite small, is there anywhere else to move it to?

It is VERY odd Ben. As the Dyno sheets show, the dyno is having no issues, but once moving, it overboosts, and like you say not a spike and back down, it does in fact stay up high. evil weevil, i was thinking a busted vacuum hose and they have been replaced once, but I am happy to replace them again just to make sure.

Just from your post in the other thread PM-R33. This is the dyno sheet. What I cannot understand is that this is from about a month and a half ago and the boost looked perfect. No issues at all. Yet once I got behind the wheel, I had nothing but trouble with it. Absolutely nothing has changed in the setup since this dyno (apart from a new bellmouth dump today).

It just climbs at a steady rate, not a quick shoot up but not overly slow either. I wonder how the Standard ECU affected yours PM-R33? We have also since tried to play with the wastegate actuator itself and it appears to only really change how fast the boost will build but not dramatically affect final boost.

DjeMz, did you end up sorting this boost issue? I'm running a GT-RS with the same issue but I have a 3" bellmouth dump already. Adjusting the preload didn't help..

Background info: S2 R33 GTST RB25DET (unopened bottom) HKS GTRS Kit (brand new) Bellmouth Dump pipe 3" exhaust JJR FMIC with enclosed POD intake PowerFC eBoost2 I have had some really annoying issues with controlling boost on my GT-RS. I cannot for the life of me (or my tuner) get any less than 1.3bar (~19psi) of boost once you are above 5000rpm. Our troubleshooting started at thinking it was the eBoost2 causing issues so we isolated any boost control and ran the feed from the intercooler to the wastegate directly. This caused a 0.9bar boost from low revs to 1.3bar for anything above 5000rpm. So this eliminated the eboost as a suspect. Then we figured if it was still overboosting on 'wastegate pressure' then it is something to do with the wastegate itself. We thought, perhaps it was the JJR Split Dump I had installed, causing the wastegate flap to get stuck and not fully open. We have changed this to a bellmouth dump (HKS dump) and looking at the JJR Split dump, there was definetly SOME restriction (with all the carbon build up). We took it for another run and we still hit 1.3bar (a little less about 1.25 - 1.3) instead of 0.9bar. So we are now at an end, we cannot think why it is boosting so high. The boost gauge is fed of a T-Piece from the Fuel Regulator and the eBoosts feed runs off the standard boost gauge in the dash (but the eboost is currently bypassed till we can get wastegate pressure). Has anyone else come across this or does anyone else have any troubleshooting options? Its an unopened bottom end and whilst I have no worries running 1.2bar, I am very very susceptible to cold day boost spikes to 1.4 bar etc.. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give, and if you need more information, i'll be keeping track of this topic to respond. Cheers Sam

Spotted a very clean and very bright Yellow R33 in Erindale tonight

Sounds good Ben, I'll be keeping a close eye on your rear diff experiences with chattering etc. Yeh, I think my boost issue is different. Even without the boost controller connected (std wastegate pressure) i make about 19psi... So we are changing the Dump pipe next Tuesday and putting it back on the dyno.

Ben, I'd be very curious to find out what your boost issue is mate as I'm going through a very similar thing (booked into Trojan next Tuesday to hopefully sort it)...

Spotted sl33py's R33 getting a nice new rear end installed

Hi ka-os1, I've got a set of stock rims with about 95% tread on them. One of the rims looks like it has been in a slight fire though as it has yellowy discolouration on one corner. I don't know if they would knock it back on that or not. I've been planning to paint the black to cover it up, but i've been overseas with no time on my hands. Your welcome to come borrow them for the pits, let us know. I don't visit this thread often so PM me. Cheers Sam

Spotted a Silver R33 chasing me down on Mugga Lane this morning. Sounded great as it passed by!

No worries Scott, I hope the diagram helps you out, I can't imagine the pain of having a map constantly fall off the earth. Let us know how you go!

Scott, cannot thank you enough for helping me out today. Being able to prove that my ECU was in a working state was just priceless. About 5 minutes after you left, we got it WORKING!!!!!! We required an extra 10amp fuse that was listed on that piece of paper I had. Refering to this link (thanks PaulR33) http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#68

It would be greatly appreciated Datto260Z! Would you be able to send me your mobile number or something, I could give John at Trojan a call and ask if he's able to wait around this arvo if you are willing to meet me out there? John said my symptoms appear to be the screen locking on the hand controller and just not able to run the car in general (something about a relay for the fuel pump clicking on and off a lot)... Being able to see someone elses PowerFC on it will help decide on John getting in his electrician.

Hi Guys, Long time no see (been overseas). Whilst I was overseas, i left my car at Trojan to get some cool bits added to the car and a PowerFC tune from John. Unfortunately, it turns out that John has been having issues with my PowerFC working and thinks it is faulty. He needs to borrow someone elses PowerFC to confirm that mine is no good or if I have wiring issues that his electrician can sort out. He only needs the PowerFC for 10 minutes max and is happy to have the person drive in and out without doing anything else. Is anyone with a R33 Series 2 (or 1, i think the PowerFC's are the same) running a PowerFC able to help me out early this week??? (Help John to since I'm taking up car space ) Cheers Sam

Alex, Was on the phone to John taking up too much of his time yesterday :-P My car will be going in next Monday whilst I'm overseas for some tasteful mods (thanks Sl33py :-P). As for the LT12, no, i'm running a PowerFC. I was just quite surprised and as you say, puzzled, that it doesn't run an O2 sensor. I would think it would mean that the tuner is then required to do a true 'full tune' instead of relying on closed loop mode for cruising. I've had no experience with Microtech's so perhaps others with LT10s etc could inform us if its just the LT12 without an O2 sensor?

Interesting about the LT12 Alex. Do you know if that means that it would be running in Open Loop permanently since there is no O2 sensor to get readings from? It sounds like John has a long week/weekend ahead of him. He was saying today that he has to work over the coming weekend.

Thats an odd one as both times I have been through the pits and they looked at the child restraints, mine are smack bang in the middle of the speakers as well.... There isn't much room to put them in front of the speakers is there? If we have a local place in the ACT that sorts out imports for compliance they may be able to assist, as they would surely have to do it all the time...

No worries. I was quite curious because I paid to get my tint done and done legally (35%), yet when Dickson measured the windows, both fronts were 31% (the rest were all 35% exactly). The guy stared at me for a while and walked off and if they didn't get me for 4mm to low, i reckon he would have complained about my tint as well...

Out of curiosity R3sp3ct, what was your tint % at Dickson, and what tint % did you pay for? Interested to see if it was the same..

Bass Junky, could I get put down for a R33 Series II with the black powdercoat? Delivery to Canberra... $80 + $25?