W1ngnut

Others might be able to confirm a bit more but from memory they are 16x6.5 +40

Since I drive like a grandma to work, I thought you would have caught me a lot sooner than that! It's always an entertaining scenario in the morning when I have people go flying past me at warp 10 in their Kia's only to stop at the roundabout and then the lights where we turn off.. Haha, poor ute. C'mon, how is it not soooo much more stylish than a GTR, sheesh...

CeJay, if the R33 standards fit, then mine should be right for you as well. I'm waiting on when Jarrod needs them, but if they are right for you and are not at the same time as Jarrod needing them, shouldn't be an issue.

JD travelling in style to work this morning. I was in such a daze this morning, saw the waving and my mind said yep, JD, wave back... My hand took an extra minute to react...

Had me worried then John. Would have been going past at that exact time myself only to realise that I was in the parents Hyundai instead Actually spotted you going past work earlier this week, but again, I was in the Hyundai.

Spotted a really clean looking Full Panda (Black bonnet/roof/boot) R33 on Monaro Hwy past the tip this morning headin towards Chisholm.

Federal 595SS for the past 1.5years (first set still)... great for the street.

PM sent

Hey Trozzle, twas my white 33 being dirty as (refraining from washing it until after the skidpan day)... I wasn't sure you were going to wave since we were both turning in on a terrible corner for traffic.

NRMA have a mechanical inspection that you can get done, and no, it is different to the road worthy certificate. A road worthy certificate is required to be able to register the car on Australian roads, and this is achieved by booking into an approved inspection station listed on the Canberra's Motor Registry website. If the car you are looking at is interstate, you will need to go over Dickson's Motor Registry station for an identity check. If the car is modified, you will have to go over Dickson's Motor Registry station for this as well. As for steps, if you find a car that you like, the first thing most people will do is get the VIN number from the car. They then use this number for whats known as a REVS check, this will check whether the car is still owing any monies to a bank due to an unpaid car loan etc, as once you buy a car that is under finance, you also have to then pay the finance company. The next step is to agree on a price with the person, and get your money sorted. When you are ready to pick up the car, you call an insurance agency like NRMA or AAMI etc that will give you a cover note, which basically gives you insurance on the car without paying upfront until the car is in your name (but you will pay from the day it started once it is in your name). In the ACT, you have 14 days to get the car into your name, in other words, 14 days to get your roadworthy certificate and head to a Government Shopfront to get your rego papers.

Definetly the way to go, I have 3 different exhausts now. One noticeably illegal, one right on the edge (depending on the person testing) and the other silent..

Just got this response from EBGames:

I saw that prestige edition on youtube from one of the guys earlier in this thread.... What I can't work out is why EBGames will only let you pre-order the xbox 360 and PS3 versions... They don't have the PC version up for pre-order!!??

Yes, but you are only reading what you want to read there... The guidelines specifically say that it is to be < 90db at 3/4 of ESMP UNLESS they don't know what that value is. In which case they are to do 6 cyls @ 3200rpm as a default setting.

http://www.ntc.gov.au/filemedia/Reports/Na...estSept2006.pdf Still chasing up the doco I had on the ESMP of our engines, sorry. Ok, found the PDF... http://epanote2.epa.vic.gov.au/EPA/Publica...;FILE/317.1.pdf - 2 and a bit meg in size, give it time to load. RB20E - ESMP 5600 - 75% reading done at 4200rpm RB25DE - ESMP 6400 - 75% reading done at 4800rpm RB26DETT - ESMP 6800 - 75% reading done at 5100rpm RB25DET - ESMP 6400 - 75% reading done at 4800rpm Interestingly, cannot find RB20DET listed, which means it should be measured at 3200rpm the way I read it....

I have one at work that I MAY be able to borrow. Let me know and i'll see what I can pull, may need to get you to test at my place or something one night after work. However, just to correct you on some unfortunate facts since I've been through it before as well. The roadside tests (whilst never performed legally to the book) and all metered exhaust tests are to be conducted at 75% of ESMP (Engine Speed at Maximum Power). For an RB25 (I've only looked it up for my engine sorry), the rated RPM to measure it at is 4950rpm including stepping off the gas ubruptly to include that decel pop. The dickson station has only ever measured at 3200 or 3400 (can't remember the exact one they did for me) and passed without issue, but the roadside, they only ever do 4100rpm+ etc because its the easiest way to get you off the road for driving an import. Which, technically is still legal since by the book it should be rated at 4950rpm.

Hi mate, Angelo @ Trojan Motorsports is always renewing headlights for the skylines. He should have a few to buy that have been completely refreshed (no scratches or yellowing)

TiTAN, are you able to give a ball park figure on what your costs were? I'm thinking to just do syncros and bearings, i'm up for about $1200 inc labour..

I haven't had a Skyline box rebuilt, but had my Subaru's box prepped and rebuilt by Josh @ AutoTorque in Phillip. Josh knows his gearboxes very well and is an awesome guy to deal with. I shall be heading to him in the next few months in regards to my current box and its options (just syncros atm).

I've only ever had my 33 over Dickson RTA. No one else would look at it, even unmodified. I'm pretty sure there were some users on here that had some contacts..

Honestly, the first time i replaced the dump, i used a little bit of exhaust gasket goo with the factory gasket. I know it isn't the 'done' thing but it worked. It was replaced when the new turbo arrived about 5 - 6 months later. If you are keen on keeping your current turbo and would like a new gasket, hit up Angelo @ Trojan, he should be able to get a genuine one for you pretty easily (he may even have one stocked).

Mate, you should have no worries with the system.. The muffler in the middle should allow it to not be as drony as most 'cannon' style systems. If you haven't had your standard dumppipe off before from the turbo, you may need to start getting some wd40 to all 6 bolts. The amount of heating/cooling they have gone through will make them a pain in the behind to get off.

If you were referring to me TiTAN, the $900 - $1100 custom mild does include a cat in the estimate, yes... I paid $950 for my first 3" mild steel custom setup for the whole thing. That was with a ceramic cat, i'm now running a metalcat.

I can't offer much of a suggestion here mate, but it really sucks to hear what happened. Pretty pathetic. Perhaps Trojan could offer some assistance in sourcing a replacement lock?

You can usually get a custom mild steel system made for around $900 - $1100 for a full turbo back exhaust. As Mick said, go talk to Angelo @ Trojan about sourcing a system for you. A jap brand cat back system is usually around $800 (add $300 - $400 for a decent dumppipe). Depends on what you want as well, loud, quiet, legal limit etc... The Kakimoto Regu systems have a very very nice growl without being obnoxiously loud.