RPMGTR

t25 flange to suit GTR

These are in Melbourne....

1 pair of HKS 2510 turbos to suit GTR in VGC, done approx 10-15,000kms. $1500ono

On the GTR PFC, normal idle ign timing is set at 20deg. When TPS reads less than .5v (ie. throttle closed), the PFC reverts to the Idle map (non adjustable via the hand controller). You can change the values in the ign load map and it will have no effect on the idle map. You may notice during warm-up it adds a couple of degrees, and may also take a couple out if your actual idle speed is much higher than the set target idle speed. Probably best you find yourself a good PFC tuner.. cheers.

std rod length is 121.5mm cheers

We tap the galleries and use threaded plugs..........easy to remove at next rebuild, and they aint ever coming out (RB's run decent oil pressure) unlike a pressed in plug could.

They are identical...even the same part number.

A Motec tuned using throttleposition/map for fuel, will run beautifully. We have used them on 6 throttle RB's with cams up to 304deg and drivability is still remarkably good. May take a bit of tuning but can be done...

N1 water pumps work fine in street cars..........

They are made by Quaife (England) under license for Trust. You can buy parts from Trust Japan. You will be buying lots of parts... :uh-huh:

ok....if you have the type r plumbed back, make sure it is adjusted so it is open at idle vacumn.........this allows the air pumped by the turbos to travel in a circuit rather than chuffing out the afms... hope that helps..

There's your problem....refit the factory bovs and return pipe and it will be perfect again...

Do you still have the factory GTR Bovs??

yes

Shoot out has some pretty generous enertia values (esp shoot 8), hence the higher numbers. Intake temp is also corrected back to 20C, so placing the sensor in behind the rad will give a substantial 'improvement ' also. We like to use ambient air for Intake temp and 0 enertia. When done in this manner, the cars perform as per the hp calculators. When using shoot numbers, the cars underperform........

Man are my ears burning!!... The thing only ran 11.01 or .02 at 136/7. that night.........It was in full street/circuit trim, 60 foot was pox on cold RE55's.....but the worst part was sittin around for and hour in between passes ....I'd rather blaze around lap after lap.... I'll leave the drag(brag) racing to you guys.....lol

Std GTR rods are good at 400- 450kw@wheels and up to 9000rpm.....above that level we usually replace em with something better, but in saying that, we have never broken one either....they are a short, tough little rod....

LOL.....you guys crack me up!..... I'll try not to be so scarey in future Marcus ....and Snowey.....you know I only ever wear womens underwear on my head.. :Oops: ....

We have built a couple of 3 litre RB26 using the spacer plate method, similiar to the original OS or Kakimoto style. First one used std 85mm stroke RB 30 crank with custom rods and pistons and was 25mm taller than RB26. More recently, we favour destroking to 84mm and reducing crankpin to RB26/SR20 dia. Then using off the shelf SR20 rods (Carillo) and off the shelf 87mm Jap pistons with 22mm pin (Tomei/HKS). 87mmx84mm gives 2996cc, only 20mm overall height increase and turns reliably to 8500rpm. Nissan should have called it the RB29 :aroused:

Troy, organise a day at E creek and you'll have a few takers (me included)......

Get the M800/600 set up by a decent tuner using tps/map on fuel and map for ign and drivability should be like stock or better.

John, Let us know next time you're at the creek.....would be a good road trip and fun to do a few laps with you guys. Ben

Greddy pump is made by Jun....top quality.... will run about 6 kg/cm2 (85 - 90psi) oil pressure with std spring

I know you love to tinker Geoff as do I. ....and I've tinkered with the RB25 cam thing alot and found.... the std cams are really quite good...you get a broad power curve and power up to 300rwkw is really only limited by the turbo/ancillaries bolted on to it. Sure you can usually find another 10-30kw by upgrading cams but you need to choose carefully to get that gain and not a net total loss....The poncams are the best I've tested on many setups (Mr Tomei really seems to have done their homework on these)...they retain VCT giving superb drivability and great power. Other jap brands work quite well to but these are the best aftermarket I've found so far. As for the much touted GTR cams,..these work reasonably when given hydraulic ramps, but the loss of vct is too much like backward engineering for me.... they make the engine really quite 'flat' off the bottom and thru the midrange with no more top end than the poncams. I've tried just about every cam timing/tuning combination possible and although you can move the power around, you cant go close to matching the 'overall ' performance of either the std or Tomei cams...Even RB30/25's Non VCT engines are quite disappointing in the low-mid when compared to the same engines with VCT...(I just wish RB26 had VCT too)...... So save yourself a stack of dyno-time and go with std or poncams! Hope that helps... Ben BTW....Its great to see someone put 34GTR turbos on a RB25.....they should work really well...good luck with it.

When reground to suit the hydraulic lifter the RB26 cams work ok......but you will really miss the VCT.....Poncam or even std RB25 is way better.