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Yes the R35 is a big step up from the old GTR's. Highly modified GTR's (costing about the same as an R35 in total) wouldn't be far behind re performance, but tech-wise the R35 blasts away. A big difference i find is the old GTR's are like a platform upon which boundless kW can be extracted. That makes it really exciting, like opening up a massive easter egg with little wastegates rattling inside. The R35, from the reports, appears to be an awesome purpose built sports car but without the strength to be pushed 50-60% harder (like 32/3/4's). So in that sense it's becoming an 'owners' car, if you will, rather than a modifier's car. It's so great (and pushed closer to it's mechanical limits) compared to yester-gears GTR's that it can't really have too much modifying done (without re-engineering the manifolds/head/block/rotating assembly/tranny etc.). It's already so well honed and balanced it bores me.

I have to agree with Roy on this one. Oh, yes i think the GTR is better. But in time my tune might change (i'm open-minded, just like Roy). The LF-A is a very good looking piece of arse tin.

With the right kind of $$ they can do whatever they want to it I think a 2wd setup with be interesting. Moving backwards, but interesting.

I've seen a GTS4 on the road that kept the RB20. It sounded great, looked great (cream yellow) and the owner wouldn't have bothered with the conversion. If you make the RB20 work harder you'll have a very fun car. I'd forget the conversion unless you are maniacally determined.

That's Jeff isn't it?

Good to hear you sorted it out Matt. Now you can kick back and enjoy it Re the dump pipe, they come with a slot for the O2 sensor so it's a straight bolt-on. There's a dump pipe DIY in this section as well if you're keen. cheers

I'm guilty too. My friends think i have tourette's.

I posted in the Wanted to Buy section and in a couple of weeks had one behind my front bar

Sorry to the KKR Krew, but i agree.

I've done the same as you and my car starts fine. It might sounds rudimentary but are all the other connections/vacuum lines properly in place?

Not to create a pain in the arse for him, but if you PM SydneyKid he'll know for sure.

GTST- can you comment on performance of that return pipe setup? Is it as good/better than the driver's side return pipe FMIC's? Cheers Yes, it's noticable as soon as you turn the car on. A good upgrade.

"We broke up"

Is the staining usually on the outside? (Plz say yes... )

A retune will probably be the best short-term solution. While the car gets worked on the tuner can also find out if you've got other factors contributing to power loss. Or maybe you just expected too much

It's rigged. They fitted it with a TurboTech.

Yes that's correct. If you're referring to a dual stage MBC then you need to wire it up properly. For Turbosmart contollers (others are similar) the blue wire is positive and brown wire is negative. Connect the positive to a 12v ignition supply (such as splicing the positive wire going to the clock, or anything going to the battery that can take an extra 1 amp load. Secure it with solder if you can). Ground the negative wire to the chassis (find a bolt on the body of the car and fix it there, either remove the gearstick fascia and snoop around there or route the wire to the engine bay) and you're done. Mount the high/low switch where you like, such as the gearstick fascia (you need to remove the screws beneath the ashtray to unclip the assembly). Fixing the tee-piece, dial housing and lines is explained on the Turbosmart site. Sending vacuum lines between cabin/firewall can be done through the steering tunnel as far as i know (there's plenty of wires there). If anyone knows a quicker spot to do this please post! Cheers

My first guess is one cooler each for tranny and diff. They're a decent size.

It's bloody uglfy. It's a matter of function over form with a competition car i guess. But they should try harder! Bet it goes like death though

If you can't transfer into another degree then stick it out. By your 387th engine rebuild you'll be wondering how to get back into that course....

On that note, i wonder who will be the first nutcase to convert the R35 to full manual?

Try the process of elimination, beginning with Ms. Nismo's advice Turn the boost down and see what happens, and change plugs.

I don't see why Renault couldn't share some GT-R components to spruce it's upper-echelon range a little more. Yes a Clio i guess, sticking with the sports car theme, but it doesn't have to be the VR38 that gets donked in. Even sharing brakes, or the dual clutch gearbox, or suspension components. Keeping it 'in the family' will definitely make Niss-ault more appealing to buyers not in the market for a GT-R but wanting something a little less awesome with a price to match. Anyone thinking a mid-mounted VR25DET AWD Clio? VW Golf R32 beware!

Try turning the dail 1/2 turn at a time and gently testing it out. Some controllers need more turning than others. On my turbotech i'll turn again and again with little difference until i reach the point where the spring inside gets really compressed and from that point even a 1/4 turn will make several psi extra. Lots of people get the Just Jap dumps. 99% say to get the split dump version ($270). Quality-wise it's good for the price. Check out JJ in the trader section. Cheers

Any luck with it? The Turbosmart valve should be the same install as TurboTech, there are probably heaps of people on the forum that have the same valve and can help you out!