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Again, Skylines are road cars. If Nissan built an 'enduro racer' the first thing they'd have done is fitted a dry sump to the GT-R (like a racer would have) to fix it's oil failure problem. It comes from Nissan as a road car, with road car bits on it. Yes, it's design originates from a racing car, but that's not what Nissan is selling on the showroom floor. Ok. A bus is unrelated to a Skyline, or the topic. Who'd change gears at 3000RPM? Peak torque is later than that on stock Skylines. F1 cars need high RPMs because their torque is available much higher up than a Skyline, plus they're NA. Yes, it's down to gearing and not how many RPM's you're able to hit. I don't see how being in a lower gear means you'll win a race if peak power is the same. But you're going off topic, from engines to drivetrains, and making yourself look cockish. That's all you've got? You're picking at a dot? I'll remind myself when i see a mistake in your posts that you're the dot guy Yep they do. You're referring to high powered engines right? Racing engines, Formula 1 technology and regulations relate to straight and V6's how? You've lost me. One thing you're great at doing Kinks, is taking what someone says out of context and throwing a heap of sh!t at it. I was trying to flip the coin on your earlier comment, talking about torque curves in straight 6's and circuit racing a Skyline. You threw Formula 1 into the debate to compensate for a poor argument.

Oh look! A pink Unicorn! Don't do it.

GTRBOS bloody nice GTR. Your bonnet looks like an erect penis in pic #4. GBTURBOS your white GTR on page 3 is gorgeous. Painted CF bonnets work very well. Love the look Nice work fellas. MRAK47. You suck.

WTF? No flaming? The joke has been taken as one? What's gotten into you guys?

I'm impressed, congrats! Great price too. Keep that clean paintjob looking shmick

The best solution is to reduce the amount of driving we do. Walk, push bike, train etc. Save driving for evenings and weekends, rather than commuting in traffic. Our weekly petrol expenses will go down, or at least break even with price increases, and we'll be creating less pollution, meaning we get rain in winter and sun in summer and not the other f**king way around

Where the f**k is Roy? Yup there's a different sound. The 25 barks like a dog, the 20 is more raspy (like a 26), has a rougher sound. The difference isn't big, but they aren't the same. GTST chillax dude. You're too smart to harp on about this. You've made a valid point, but you're not listening to this guy. He isn't taking the 'best' choice, he's taking the realistic choice. Who wouldn't want to throw an RB20 into their Commie practically for free, even if it isn't as good as a 25/30? I'm just saying, you're getting worked up over someone who just thinks different. But. Your chassis is dogs balls.

Congrats Mr. Nugget! The power curve is nice and fat. I bet the response gives you goosebumps

Don't go somewhere crappy Nat (not that you would). I got an alignment not long ago and they didn't even get the steering wheel straight! A good suspension shop AND ask for an inspection (rather than just align and piss off type job). There might be something unhappy back there that's costing you plenty of rubber (no, i'm not being filthy). And stop doing burnouts. Srsly.

Interesting discussion with yourself, hey? AT least it's sorted...

I prefer the z-tine fins on an R33. Also the 400R centre 'square' is a great shape to work with on a 33. The other ones just don't stand out enough IMO. Sorry for reverting to the common styles!!! I dunno...follow your heart?

They're different configurations so you're wasting your time seeing which is 'better'. They've both been around for many decades so obviously they both work effectively. I like the I6 better for its smoothness, but i wouldn't knock a V6 based on that reason. Being behind an RB or a VQ engine, they both sound and rev great and both are torquey. You can design an engine to do anything you want. The parameters between all engine components functions, cylinder head capability, use of forced induction, displacement, gear ratios, fuel maps etc. are so wide that a 4 cylinder can be built to outdo an I6. It depends on the engineering requirements. And no, Skylines are road cars. Depending on the circuit of course, midrange and torque are usually more important than top end. Torque pulls you through corners, and is what allows easier overtaking. What's 10,000RPM going to achieve over usable torque? Nothing, because top end RPM's are a measure of the engine's speed, not the maximum power available to pull you through a hairpin. How many RB cranks break? Spot on. The COG is even better on a flat-6. Yes, a V6 is more complex (in the number of parts anyway). They can both produce big power. No, they won't just crack because of their piston configuration. Detonation or an oil failure would be more likely to kill the engine rather than its shape. A conrod might crack from excessive heat/force, but that can happen on any overpowered engine. But in saying that I6's are used more commonly for large industrial machinery. It's better balance, hence reduced vibration, makes it more suited to large power (esp. torque) applications. Think of trucks used for mining, carring thousands of tonnes of cargo. A V6's inherent configuration would be unsuitable in this regard. To illustrate, think of a TOLL truck's 80L or 90L I6 engine used to ship packages interstate. The vibrations we feel in 2.6L engines are amplified greatly in a 90L engine. It's 34.5 times greater displacement, so imagine 34.5 times more vibration coming from your engine bay. Then imagine you have a V6 in the same situation

(00)SKYLINE(00) gave you the best response so far. You won't need too much to make the Nur into a quick car. Just make sure you use a good boost controller, a PFC and reputable tuner. You'd be surprised the difference to power with 1.2+ BAR of boost. Get a Jap exhaust, or even a locally made one such as CES. There wouldn't be a major difference in performance between them (most have very similar designs). The big difference is quality. Can't go wrong with HKS turbo-back IMO. Custom designs are a waste -the mass produced designs, as seen on Nengun for eg., have been tested again and again. A custom one won't make much difference other than to the price. It's only with 400kw+ where you'll be thinking off-the-shelf exhausts aren't up to scratch, but by that stage your car will need many a mod to reach that power.

I've always had a thing for the 33. Maybe because that's what i was exposed to most when i first became interested in Skylines (also think how cool the YouTube videos are of the Top Secret 33 doing 200mph, also when Clarkson tested the Jun Super Lemon). But the 32 has really grown on me, as with the 34. I guess they're all great individually- the more time you spend around one the more attached you become. This wouldn't happen if they weren't awesome cars. One of my mates has a hard looking 32. It has really convinced me it's a classic. But still, i'd take a 33 over the rest. It's simple lines can really be complimented with a good kit (even the stocker), a Nismo bonnet and dropped a couple of inches with a set of bronze TE37's it just makes me drool the way any Euro exotic makes me drool.

*burns* congrats dude

Sorry to hear it Mona There's camera's aplenty on the casino floor. The a**holes running the joint might be considerate enough to use a few $$ from the billions and move a couple lousy cameras to the parking lot. All the best getting the car sorted.

The crossmember is the main support component holding the engine up. Rust makes metal brittle. Think about the strain on the crossmember during bumps and hard cornering. Just a thought.

Get 4L and you'll be fine.

I wouldn't mind converting a Tuscan into a drift car to compete in DA

You're meant to have blinkers at the front, side and rear of the car. It's defectable not to.

Thanks for pointing that out. Post results when it's done (picsorban) On a general note many GT-R owners remove the PCM valve restrictor (a hard object in the yellow-striped tube going toward the plenum), throw on a full exhaust, and they can make approx. 1 BAR of boost. Either the PCM can be replaced with a boost controller, or the factory lines can be binned completely so the boost is controlled by a few small vacuum lines + controller between the turbo's compressor housings and the actuators (said above by turbo_brian). Here's a pic of a GT-R engine bay: The PCM valve is the silver cylinder in front of the driver's side strut tower (on the left). It has two hoses connected. Cheers

I've done some searching because i'll be doing 'box oil soon. A quick search in SAU says Redline Lightweight XXXX (forgot exactly) is the way to go. There's a few different grades, so do some research before you pick one. It's blue coloured. My gearbox is rough too. It's not cheap ($3000 new box) to either reco OR replace it so try avoid it unless you have lots of cash

What a stupid thread. Gunmetal grey. Also check my sig- that R33 GTR championship blue is erotic.

Anyone recommend a clutch to use with the factory fly? I'm looking for a HD single plate for 190kw. I saw some good ones from Sliding Performance, the SAU trader, for about $400-50. NYTSKY is there a reason for going cushion button?

Terrific result. Once we start seeing high 10s with basic mods like this, when tuning has been better developed, that will just be ridiculously fast. How much cash will your old GTR's need to match that?