daniel23a

What size do we order for the transmission drain plug? Cheers

any luck with this? i am looking to do the same, which means plans have been on hold till i find out if it fits. have you tried positioning it in the engine bay yet? what kind of clearances are you getting (if any?). any guidance would be much appreciated. cheers, Daniel

Any luck? I am waiting with eager anticipation

Would be much appreciated if you could fit up the old mounts Wizard, i am wanting to keep it low mount and this will determine whether i can go for an hx35, if it requires modification i'll probably go for something different. cheers!

thanks works, yeah i have read his thread, my concern is the different size of engine bays and block heights, i have been told by others that i will need to cut into the subframe or engine mounts which i don't really want to do. was hoping there was someone who has tried to fit one already. anyone?

Thanks Crack, the HX35 flange is already T3 divided, but a spacer will be needed if using stock manfold. can anyone tell me if it will fit in a stock low mount position on an R33 GTS25t?

I am after the same info -is it possible to low mount an hx35 on the stock manifold in an r33 gtst? looks like it will be a tight fit, want to know if anyone has tried before i have it shipped...

Hi Anthony, looks like you are in for a great build. It looks like you have everything sorted, the GT3076r with 0.82 rear is generally considered the best street setup on this forum. Dump looks great. I hate to say it and only will as the rest of your setup looks excellent, you are doing yourself a bit of a disservice with that manifold. the laminar flow will be interrupted with the adaptor plate which is pretty weak considering you have gone to the effort of a port and polish. do your setup justice and get a manifold that has a T3 flange (pref not split pulse design). are you running nistune with an R32 ECU? tell us a bit more about the rest of your setup, looks like its going to be awesome.

would you consider shipping to nz? regards, Daniel

sorry, yes i misinterpreted tony, i thought he was talking about the cold side, just realised he was referring to the fact that stainless is not magnetic. anyone know how i can determine if the exhaust wheel is stainless or ceramic? regards, Daniel

hmmm, maybe i need to do some further investigation... what other signs should i be looking for that it has been hiflowed? how can i determine if it is inconel? tony -thought the stock impellors were stainless anyway? cheers

thanks mate! must have blown his stock turbo, seems a bit strange that he would have upgraded the turbo and kept stock dump pipe...

Hey guys, interesting to see the photos comparing the stock and hiflow turbo. i bought my s2 r33 a couple of years ago now, the previous owner had told me the turbo had t3/t4 internals though i didn't really take him seriously as the rest of the car was dead stock. i decided to pull off my dump after reading this thread, you can see what it looks like yourself. the wheel looks like it sits somewhere in size between the stock and the hiflow, so it may well have been upgraded. also, i did get out a mag wand, and the turbine wheel itself does not seem to be steel (only housing attracts the magnet). does this mean i have a ceramic wheel? so is this stock or has it been upgraded? also i see that zilr's turbine housing has 21U and mine has OP6 stamped on them, what do these numbers mean? cheers, Daniel

i'll take the injectors off your hands, pm me your bank details and i'll flick the cash through. cheers, Daniel

Thanks URAS/GotRICE I think because thats what i do, i'm an engineer... I look at better ways to solve a problem, whether it be in terms of performance or cost. i just reckon that i'd prefer to pay less than a quarter for a kit that will prob perform better than go for a brand kit just because it has been done before. Any ideas about the exhuast sizing?

I have looked at the intake piping, there are rubber bends in the system, in fact there is a rubber section coming straight off the turbo so I don't see any problems with this. I have talked to a few people and the main reason hard pipes are used is to avoid expansion in the pipes. The hose I will be using is steel wound and rated to over 10 bar so I do not see this as an issue. As for the exhaust system, previously mentioned I have an HKS super drager from cat back. I am looking to replace the dump with an atmos venting and also a straight through cat pipe, will I need to replace the down pipe also? does anyone know what size it is? No point replacing everything else if there is a bottleneck in the system!

thanks guys, the exhaust temps would def be very high, so you're right i should increase the temperature rating of the hoses. i don't see that it will reach 300deg just from heat transfer from the hot side, does anyone have an indication of how hot intake temps get (and what i should allow for safety)? also i have allowed for 2bar of boost (with safety factor), realistically in the future i should be up over 1bar, anyone know of what kind of pressures these hoses will be under when boost spikes? cheers, Dan

hi, thanks for your input Have found that in a 2.5" system, a 180bend is equivalent to 1.1m of straight pipe and a 90 deg bend is equivalent to 0.9m of straight pipe, surprisingly not much difference. an aftermarket kit looks like it has roughly about 7 90deg bends, but i do think in the end this will be negligible when compared to the pressure drop across the intercooler, so you're probably right. my other positives are that flexible pipe allows for easier installation and greater flexibility in mounting. it is also cheaper. i guess i'm just a bit hesitant to do it as its not common! anyone else?

Hi all, I am looking at reducing the restrictions in the intake and exhaust of my S2 R33 to allow for better flow, with more mods to come further down the track. I am a mechanical engineer by trade, have done a bit of reading on air flow and how it is affected by change in direction. basically any small change in direction causes drag in the air flow, with more friction caused by sharper less gradual bends. before this point i was looking at getting an FMIC that utilised the existing piping but now that i have looked at it, the 180deg bed that runs under the cooler would greatly slow down the airflow in the system. I work in industrial projects, and have recently been dealing with hose manufacturers. I am looking at using industrial hose (rated to 50deg and 2bar) to route from the J-pipe to a front mount and back to the turbo. has anyone done this before? what are the drawbacks? i assume there would be some pretty big ones otherwise it would be more commonplace... I am retaining my stock front bumper, so will be looking to use a smaller core that fits the size of the intake in the front (800x150?) as i dont see any point in installing a huge front mount if it isn't exposed. For the exhaust side, at the moment i have an HKS 3" cat back with Apexi control valve (for noise) but I am wanting to replace the dump pipe with a screamer pipe and a straight through cat. is this the best way to go about freeing up the exhaust? i know the screamer makes a horrible noise, but my daily driving is done off boost, one of the merits of having a RB25 Any insight or criticisms into my logic are welcome! Cheers, Daniel

Hey mate, how much for shipping to Auckland for the AFM? Regards, Daniel

how much for shipping to auckland?

That reading is when the engine is off :s

Hey all, I have been haveing trouble with the install of a few bits and pieces of elec stuff, and was just doing a test across the battery which is showing 16.5V...??!?! is this unusual? The guy i bought the car from said this was a special battery for the alarm (m80g). could this be the source of all my problems? - argh! cheers, Daniel

Hi all, I have recently puchased one of these units as well, unfortunately it didn't come with an R33 plug. Lucky for me I have wired up a few things before. My question is, are there any harnesses off the steering column that will allow me to avoid having to wire all the way to my ecu? does anyone have a wiring diagram for the steering column? Cheers, Dan!

Ok, to update, Gizzmo have sent me a new unit, which is very kind of them, but with this one I can't even start the car! I'm sure my wiring is correct as I used the same harness as with the previous unit and the engine did turn over. There is some mention of a resistor between two wires, has anyone with this unit needed to utilise one?