Granthem

I'm just referring to standard Nissan R34 GTT traction control. It is not a launch control. It (from memory) cuts fuel to 3 cylinders (or spark) and shuts a second butterfly on the throttle, thus momentarily massively killing the engine and all power. If left on for a hard launch, the car stalls (at least mine did!)

Exactly. Traction control is not launch control. One is there to stop you from hitting a power pole, the other is there to help you get to that power pole as quick as possible lol

My best 0-100 = 4.2 seconds. Apexi RSM with G sensor. 55m distance apparently. 255rwkw R33 Thats on 265 Federal Super Steels. I have some Mickey t's for the drags, and if i can get them to hook up like they did once before, i will time the 0-100 again!

I see you and raise you 4.2 seconds 0-100.... all be it with 65rwkw more power

Yeh according to the boost guage and graph it does. My boost controller is useless to say the least, all it does is make boost spike high and drop back to 14psi. Rolling alot and snapping the throttle with the boost controller on his highest setting results in 1.3 bar spike that quickly drops to 1 bar. I think its my crappy gizmo that causes the spikes TBH. But as for the actuator, it holds 14psi nicely (maybe a tad less), and doesnt massively spike down low ( I am assuming thats what you are trying to stop?) Here is the old Godzilla dyno, 14psi actuator, no boost controller.

A limited edition (at least I thought the black ones were) HKS BOV for 70 bucks has to be fake Good looking copy tho! Wonder if it leaks

Most are pretty bloody close! They even copy the serial numbers lol

I have a Greddy Fuel Pressure Gauge, reads around 3.5-3.6 bar at full noise (2 bar idle). Its a street car... I wouldnt mind getting abit more HP out of it, and some more fuel economy

Sure mate. I will post up the dyno with the boost graph. I have one from Godzilla and one from the other day. They didnt start the boost graph until it was already on boost so its just a flat-ish line. Mine no longer uses the HKS actuator. It uses a garrett 14psi actuator, so it hold fairly nicely.

You will get bored again quickly!

Haha yeh, I'll upload the graph with the boost curve tomorrow. Its on 14psi Another question - Ramp Rate - how much does it affect things? On the 3 times its been on a dyno, every operator has chosen a different ramp rate. Godzilla - 100@150 = 337.1rwhp Prodyno (first comp) - 100@140 = 337.7rwhp Prodyno (most recent graph) - 100@200 = 341.1rwhp

PS - assuming it was a lambda fault, would you guys take some fuel out of those a/f's and sneak abit more power out? Surely there is more left in it with those ratios

Very interesting Trent. Thank you very much! I'll look into another run on a different dyno

That's what I was expecting aswell. Was yours a "Mt Everest" like mine. I always pictured a more progressive leaning out when a pump slowly starts karking it? Hmmm yeh. There is another dyno in town, might be worth throwing it on theirs for a check up. They have always been ridicuously safe. I thought a pump would show on both runs, not just rear its ugly head on the second run... at least I'm hoping!

Really, 3 plate changes. In how many KM's? If you are wearing plates out that quick a button might also wear out quickly. Thats strange. I think the 3 puck is rated abit higher from memory, but I didn''t really look into it because I didn't think it was needed with 260rwkw. Are you sure oil isn't contaminating your HKS clutch? Causing it to slip

Love this 33! Mate, your 34 GTR is awesome. Was drooling over it at the Buddy's Car show on the weekend!

Hi Guys, There was abit of a carshow in Rocky on the weekend, with a dyno set up. So I put mine on for a run to check air fuel ratios, and here are the results. As you can see, run 1 made 341rwhp, a/f's were all fine. Ran it up a second time, car was following pretty much the exact same line, went 337rwhp... but the a/f's went haywire. The operator wasn't keen to run it up again. His first thoughts were the lambda had fallen out of the exhaust. Apparently tho, this was not the case. I'm pretty much wondering what you guys think. If it really leaned out that hard, surely it would start making more power (considering its on the rich side of things) before it leaned out wayyyyyy too much and started to detonate and lose power. The fact it follows the exact power of the first run kinda says to me its an error with the lambda, and not a problem with fuel delivery in my car. Car has a walbro pump (i know i know), nismo 550's and a nismo FPR. Surely a dying fuel pump would be more 'progressive' then the almost verticle climb of the a/f's on the second run? blocked injector? Any ideas or comments would be great!

Hey dude. Yeh its holding well. First to second flat change = all of second skating up the road left to right haha. I know Exedy to a higher pressure plate spring again, so you could upspec it another level. I think Exedy rate mine to 350kw at the fly... but as with all performance mods, its probably conservative. Joey is running loads of power through his!

Ordered. hard to pick sizes tho on the net. Meh, small it is!

FFS if anyone thinks the standard SQUARE recess in a R33 can hold a large maccas cup then be my guest to show us. Record it and youtube it. Place it in the SQUARE, and drive around corners. Then brake lol. It doesnt hold shit... unless its square

Just a small update... the clutch is well and truely worn in now. A few hard launches, hard changes etc. I dont know if im getting used to it, or whether its just bedded in now, but its very easy to drive with. In fact, it hardly seems like a button at all. Here's to hopeing its just me getting used to it... and not already losing its bite!

Nothing wrong with any of the GTRs IMO. All have their strengths and weaknesses visually. I still think R33 GTRs have the best tail lights...and S3 Xenons make the front sexy too!

I have seen cars run into the 10s with 125ish MPH.

Quick squizz... looks like a 180 to me. I would def say speed was the main issue

Im using a cusco chrome moly flywheel. It needed to be machined yes. Yeh I know what you mean. Mine engages so quickly I dont think there is any chance of riding it really. It goes from nothing to grip in .0001 of a second. At the moment, im trying to get a hint of wheel spin off the line, therefore I know its engaging quickly. My tires dont "chirp", its more just small scrape of the rear wheels and Im off. ' Thats how I am making sure its not being 'ridden' on take off.