iseekool

Could be as simple as a blown fuse for the horn. If the actual horn is defective, head down to any auto shop and buy one. It's pretty rare something would go wrong with the switches.

This maybe of help - have a read through. ---> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/217923-r34-tiptronic-transmission-problems/

Should bolt straight up. GTt and GTv are the same. Essentially a GTv is a non-turbo GTt. On a side note: If you change your diff ratio you might need to reconfigure your speedo. The ABS (3 channel) system "might" need tweaking too as the ABS sensor monitors the speed of the each front wheel and the rear drive shaft, the system "could" potentially crap itself when ABS is kicks in, due to mismatch in sensor readings.

V36 sedan is a massive leap forward from the V35 sedans IMHO. If I had the extra coin definately the V36 would be at the top of my list (as an "overall" car) for value, practicality, performance and looks. One of the most beautiful Nissan sedans.

So it's not "Danger to Manifold"

Lexus IS-F

All hypothetical. Assuming the system will be used as normal road going car. Most power is required for acceleration, once at a constant speed your power requirement will be much less and once you start braking, you can use this energy to regenerate. So I was thinking you can have a diesel engine running at its most effiecient RPM/powerband constantly, this then drives the electric motors and charges some sort of super capacitor/s. The diesel engine idles down to a slower speed when the car is stationary or when generation is not required. When the car accelerates the capacitors discharge into the electric motors to assist the power generated by the diesel engine for the burst of power required for acceleration. Once at constant speed the diesel engine's electricity output should be enough to sustain the an constant speed and slight acceleration. When the car slows down, it will use regenerative braking to charge the capacitors, and the diesel engine can idle down earlier if needed.

Hahaha - na, what I meant was it actually acts as a good grip when taking vertical shots. ie. natural to hold, like when taking shots horizontally. The extra battery capacity helps if you go out and take many shots with the inbuilt flash. Took roughly 1000 shots with the grip attached with 2x batteries.

To economise on fuel for FWY/HWY runs, if you keep the speed around ~95km/h you will get massive fuel savings, reason being wind resistance becomes an issue from roughly ~100km/h+

A "tank" is not a unit of measurement - LOL How many liters is your fuel tank? Fastest way to work out your approximate fuel economy per 100km. - Fill up your fuel tank to full. - Reset your trip meter to zero - Drive etc. - Next time you fill up *make sure you fill up full tank* note how many KM you have driven and note down how many liters you have filled. (number of liters divided by number of KMs you have driven) X 100 = avg fuel consumption per 100KM

The dual battery grip attaches to the bottom of the camera, great for when you want to do vertical shots and need the extra capacity (holds 2x battery packs), it also allows you to use AA batteries via a special aptaptor cartridge. -> http://auto.globalshop.ua/images_user/cat_photos/ftp_photo1/Digital%20SLR%20Camera/Canon/EOS%20400D/batterygrip.jpg -> http://media.photobucket.com/image/400d%20battery%20grip/airbutchie/Various%20Images/IMG_1340.jpg yeh I got a tripod too - hand me down from my dad - always in the boot of the Skyline, unfortunately its a light duty duty tripod, tends to sway slighly on windy days.

Love that "flat" torque/power curve. Pretty much pushing out ~300KW from ~5300rpm to redline.

Yeh same here. Just wondering - what accessories do you have? I picked mine up cheap from a mate who was upgrading (included all accessories too). - 400D body - Stock twin lens kit 18~55mm and 55~250mm - Remote shutter control - Lens hood - Dual battery grip - 3x batteries - lowepro weatherproof sling bag - UV filters - Sandisk 4GB CF card Only thing I bought was an external flash (thanks to eBay) and more FC cards. Now I'm looking for an entry level/mid level lens with a wider range 18~135mm - Tired of swapping lenses Also thinking of upgrading to a 550D/600D - I want to get into the HD video stuff eventually. The 400D has been awesome very reliable - taken thousands of pics no problems.

Yesterday evening around 6PM corner warrigal rd and dandenong rd. Silver R34 Sedan with some girly stickers, number plates "T34SE"... something like that. I was in my is200

Once you go DSLR there is no going back to compact cameras. I think entry level DSLR will actually have more than enough features/settings for an average user. The trick with any DSLR is getting the right lenses for the task.

Get genuine timingbelt and tensioners from nissan dealership - their prices are not so bad for these items. Probably a good time to get a new waterpump too. Brake pads - go genuine too - but it is on the pricey side.

This might come in handy. (I drive an auto skyline - so I imagine it will be much easier to install) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CRUISE-CONTROL-AP60-UNIVERSAL-DIY-KIT-NEW-WARRANTY-/260850094810?pt=AU_Electronics_Accessories_Remote_Controls&hash=item3cbbe092da I typed "universal cruise control" into google.

Few possibilities. - Possibly his variable length intake actuature (it actually looks like an actuator for a turbo) could be faulty. it's located on the middle section of the "Y" pipe - vacum leak will cause the actuator to stop working or work intermittently, causing sluggish low end performance. - Any vacum leak - Dirty air filter. - Dirty AFM - 02 sensor could be getting too old - Poor quality fuel - Timing out - Auto trans slippage - His car may have done higher KM's - Engine oil too thick - Low tire pressure

Exactly. Sand the surface rust back. Spray some zinc rich primer onto onto the affected area. 2x coats. Then a coat of under chassis paint. If it's in a hard to reach spot ie. spray can cannot reach, just spray some paint into the can's cap and use a small brush to paint.

That's because the R34 has infinately variable valve timing (intake only) and a variable length intake manifold. Therefore a much better torque spread across the RPM range.

Just buy an auto from a GTt - you will have a better base to start off with.

Don't do it - you actually lose power if you remove it. High flow filter is the only worthy thing changing. I don't understand why people want to undo such good work a team of highly educated Nissan Engineers, with unlimited dyno time and with millions of R&D budget put in place.

Stock vs Stock. The stock n/a manifold flows better for non turbo application. The "y" pipe is there to help you with low end power.

Stock (factory) component comparison. GTt > GTv > GT 2 varients of GTt and GT: GTt and GTt-x GT and GT-x The difference between the "x" and non "x" models are strictly trim level with "minor" mecanical option. ie premium sound, privacy glass, front strut brace, rear wing, optional LSD for GT-x (handling pack) RB25de NEO = GTv, GT RB25det NEO = GTt Regular brakes (Tokico aka hitachi automotive calipers) = GT Big brakes (Sumitomo caliper) = GTt, GTv HICAS = GTt, GTv LSD = GTt, GTv, factory optional on GT-x variant. 4 speed tiptroninc automatic = GTv, GT 4 speed tiptroninc automatic (internally strengthened) = GTt 5 speed manual = GTv, GT 5 speed manual (internally strengthened) = GTt note* GTt, GTv: they both have the same rear suspension setup. GT: Has the same suspension setup as an R33GTSt

There is a remote chance there could be a fault with the alternator causing over voltage... just a thought.