iseekool

I want to be a fireman.

The late model Alfa Romeo are really nice. I had the privilege of driving a 159 JTS Q4. (Direct injection 3.2L, 6 speed manual, brembo brakes, AWD) for 6 months. Excellent build quality, looked the goods, performance was pretty good too. Only real issue was 1st to 2nd gear was clunky - apparently its a "normal" quirk with this particular model. Exhaust sound OMG the Exhaust sound - Brilliant. In regards to the older model Alfa - I can't say - I don't know. Definately Jap cars do stand the test of time better than european cars, even if you maintain them at the same level. Main issue with European cars is their electrical problems (be it minor glitches, to full ECU failures) which seem to crop up after 5 years or so. Euro cars in general also seem to have small design flaws to begin with, also trim items seem to fall apart too. The European cars in Australia are way overpriced anyways - I've just returned from Europe - VW and other low end Euro stuff is nothing special (this includes low end MB, BMW, Audi) - They are "people's cars" ie. Falcon/Commodore. I think it's only in Australia and Asia where the "badge" means more than the actual car's merits. In regards to the MPS, XR5, GTi, in gear performance 80km/h to 120km/h will always be great - due to them being high compression + turbo engines, best of both worlds n/a responsivness with the torque of a turbo. High compression allows the turbo to spool up faster too.

This will def. be an interesting project. Should be an interesting drive too. Wouldn't a 5AT be easier conversion to do - ie. no need to worry about interior trims, handbrake etc. All you will need is a trans and ecu. I'm going to stay tuned to this thread.

Head = S3: Can park anywhere, most people don't really care (as in, it's just another ordinary car mentality), comfortable, probably cheaper to run, newer, common - therefore cheaper to insure Heart = GTR: Has "street cred", has the wow factor, lots of tuning potential per dollar spent, just looking at it parked gives you the impression of something special. Expensive to insure, older, high initial cost to get it just the way you like.

Worth a read regarding single vs dual tip. -> http://blogs.insideline.com/roadtests/2009/03/2008-mitsubishi-evo-gsr-ams-twin-tip-versus-single-exit-exhaust.html

95 should be realistic minimum

The question is... ----> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/287781-why-do-rotaries-suck/

IMHO - I actually thought about going this route, but since 99.9% of my driving is under 3000rpm - It is a waste of money (especially if running stock ECU settings), it only really helps at the top end of the rev range. Which brings us back to the performance vs. dollars. Extractors are roughly $500.00 alone, and if you need a professional to install it you will be looking at close to $700.00+ all up. Looking at the stock exhaust manifold design it is actually quite good for a factory item - the lengths seem to be "tuned lengths" anyways. Basically if just driving easy - not worth it. If you are always at the peak of the RPM range - Go for it, but don't expect much. going bit off topic... "if" I had the budget for extractors, I'd instead put the funds towards a set of R34 GTt brake calipers, rotors and pads. *or* towards a set of suspension. Brakes and/or suspension will make your car faster overall for "point to point" on the twisties, because you can brake later and corner better - therefore keeping your avg. speed higher. A good example is the stock IS200 6speed (daily) I drive, engine is rather underpowered, but the car is well endowed with big brakes and excellent suspension, riding on stock 16" rims (yes... 16"). On the twisties many higher powered cars struggle to keep up, not due to a lack of power - but poor brakes and suspension combination - either by design or poor aftermarket choices... obviously once the road straightens or long sweepers come up - my ass is grass. When it comes to cars with limited power - the trick is to make use of every single KW it has - so thinking "the whole package" as opposed to just power.

I run 98 (any brand) on my R34. It should run fine on 95, but for some reason it does feel sluggish and seems to be a little thirstier, when running 95. Then again I have a rare n/a auto Mine's ECU

I personally would go the fujitsubo. But a word of advice, the gains are minimal vs. dollars spent. Hi-flow cat, hi-flow panel filter, good quality tires and quality coilovers.

LOL - Sorry. What I meant was, these are things that commonly go wrong with these cars, probably have some spares handy - so if any go bung, just replace them - or replace them now as pre-emptive maintenance Regarding the variable intake length manifold - It's just something to be aware of - as the issue seems to "confuse" mechanics into thinking the issue is something else.

Of course.

Not sure which model Camry (V6 models only) - but keep an eye on the knock sensors, crank angle sensor and waterpump. Always use toyota genuine coolant. Apparently the variable intake length manifold may play up, which may cause the car to fell a little sluggish, but will not cause you to break down.

I forgot to mention VCT on the R34 is constantly variable compared to the R33's "on/off" style of VCT.... read it somewhere on these forums.

Yep - Good point, I forgot to take that into account. But in saying that the RAV4 is heavier by around 150kg and has less power to start with, also the AWD system would sap quite alot of power.

Mmmm - I don't think that statement is accurate. My mum also has a 2005 RAV4 Cruiser 2.4L 4 speed auto. The n/a R34 sedan is quicker in all aspects in comparison to the RAV4. Apparently the n/a R33 (i've never driven one) are the real slugs due to not having variable valve timing and variable intake length manifolds, but I'm just going from what I've been told. Would I say the n/a R34 is fast - No Does it handle/brake well - Yes. I've said this in another post, n/a R34's performance is on par with a relativly late model 4 cylinder Camry. Any commodore from VN onwards will leave you behind from 80km/h onwards (rolling acceleration). Anything under 80km/h the n/a R34 will do reasonably well - you just got to keep the revs up.

Even my R34 has some minor underside surface rust, nothing to worry about. Sand back lightly and go nuts with zinc primer. Let it dry. Final coat with under chassis black or white.

Spotted quite a lot around the Northern subs yesterday. Mainly R33 and R32. Sunny day.

IS200 manual sports-luxury - comes with an LSD Slug off the lights, but once its running and you throw some corners it's a sweet car, just be prepared to shift lots - the close ratio 6 speed needs to be worked to get the most out of the engine. Handles, brakes and rides well. 1g-fe sounds awesome at high RPMs Economical and easy to park. Requires a diet of 95RON+ Fun car + some luxury bits if you are into that stuff. I'm biased though

I used wax and grease remover before putting my double sided tape. Might be worth a try.

"Some" R33 do have the butterfly valve on the exhaust, must have been a factory option - I got the official Nissan factory technical manual on the R33 and some cars do have this equiped. R32 and R34 do not have this feature For your exhaust just buy a high flow cat and put a stock rear muffler.

Maybe an auto from an R34 GTt or C34 Stagea Turbo might be the go. It has tiptronic mode too. But you will need a non-turbo TCU to control the shifting. Best of my knowledge automatic turbo skylines/stagea have their TCU+ECU in one unit, where as the non-turbo models have the ECU and TCU as separate units. Failing that you may need to go for a fully aftermarket ECU/TCU combo. I think there was a guy on these forums by the name SATANIC, he had an RB26/30 coupled to an auto, might be worth a look as a start.

R34 sedans (not sure about coupes) have 65L fuel tanks. If you change your O2 sensor, clean the AFM and have a new air filter - you should be able to have economy around 10.5L to 11L/100km urban.

If it's a daily, full comp - regardless of the car.

IMHO. Because its black and just a front lip and not a major panel, I would do a DIY job. Buy quality spary paints. Sand back slightly, 2x coats of primer, 3x coats of black. Do it all in a garage, you would be laughing. Most it will cost you will be around $50.00 and a couple of hours across two afternoons. Especially since it's a part that is "sacrificial", getting it done professionally is a waste.