iseekool

R34 in tiptronic mode - usually 4000rpm to 6000rpm. Driving easy auto shifts around 2000rpm to 2500rpm IS200 (manual) - I generally shift on sound and feel, except on steep hill starts - I use the tacho. Normal driving shift around 2500rpm to 3200rpm. Down hill I shift at 1800rpm. Datsun bluebird - 4000rpm

Canon 550D is a good all rounder for a beginner IMHO, you also get 1080p HD video recording with an option for an external mic. One of the review on the interwebz also says alot of 550D components are shared with the 7D.

I suppose for a reasonably "powerful" car it's maybe hard to tell the difference, if any. For weaker cars the difference is more obvious. A Lexus IS200 6 spd manual (my daily) is somewhat underpowered. For me I can tell the difference depending on the brand - I do 500km to 700km per week. I fill up on Shell due to 4c discounts and I find it slightly more economical, but refuses to rev as cleanly as on BP. BP the engine seems to rev up better, but always finding low RPM power slightly weaker than on Shell, I have to hold on to gears longer or down shift one cog - therefore slightly less economy. I can't say if one fuel gives more power over another - I don't know, but definately there is a difference in engine response. Another thing is the servo's fuel turn over - which do not know - obviously the more the fuel turn over the more "fresh" the fuel will be. Don't get me wrong - I'm no fuel fanboy - Which ever is cheaper or convenient I buy it. But when I want the better throttle response BP seems to deliver in that regard. When i refer to BP and Shell, I mean Ultimate and V-power. My very un-scientific, ass dyno.

Shell V-power - use for daily, I find I get better low end torque, but seems not to rev as eager. Saves me roughly 5 to 7 liters per week compared to BP Ultimate. BP Ultimate - If I feel like fanging it, engine seems to spin more free - but I notice some low end torque disappears and my consumption is higher. But if I need fuel I fill up with any 98.

Not on the list - but how about a Lexus IS200 or ES300. IS200 - Good on fuel, cramp rear seats, great boot space, awesome handling, great ride, pretty slow if you don't rev it hard. Better in manual form if you want to extract the most power out of it, but the auto is pretty sweet for the daily grind. ES300 - lots of space, decent power, has some "class" and many common parts with a Camry - good value IMO. Personally I'm not a fan of FWD cars - but you get lots of car for your money. Nissan Maxima is also pretty good too, but styling is a little quirky - but is somewhat more elegant than a Camry.

Old thread dig up. I'm having the exact same issue, when turning the wheel left. But before i go out and put new shocks - does it actually solve the issue? It seems to be getting worse (as in louder) but the issue is still intermittent for low speed left turns/parking. I've already changed the power steering fluid (Transmax Z), thinking old fluid would be the issue, but it has made no difference. What else could it be?

Engine oil change is a must.

- Fill up your car with a full tank of petrol - Run Nulon Total Fuel System Cleaner *before* changing oil. Reason being this will allow all the crap to get into the old engine oil, instead of the new oil. - Castrol Magnatec 10w-40 for engine oil. - Castrol Transmax Z for transmission. Do not use "flushing agents".

Exactly right - wind resistance increases roughly exponentially once you start going above 105km/h. High speed you need more horspower.

Regarding using kerosene - the trick is not to let it sit for too long - as some rubbers parts could be damaged in the long term. You should only use it as a "heavy duty" pre-wash. Roughly 3/4 cup of kerosene to 9 liters of warm water. Excellent for removing road grime (tar), insects, bird sh*t, stains, water spotting. Park car in the shade Rinse your car with plain water 1st Use the kerosene and warm water mix with a fine sponge - rub away any stains Then wash the car as per usual etc. etc.

Regarding using kerosene - the trick is not to let it sit for too long - as some rubbers parts could be damaged in the long term. You should only use it as a "heavy duty" pre-wash. Roughly 3/4 cup of kerosene to 9 liters of warm water. Excellent for removing road grime (tar), insects, bird sh*t, stains, water spotting. --- - Park car in the shade - Rinse your car with plain water 1st - Use the kerosene and warm water mix with a fine sponge - rub away any stains - Then wash the car as per usual etc. etc.

^ that is 110% correct for non-turbo R34 GT (excluding GTv, GTt, GT-R). I posted that stuff a while back. But honestly - if the price difference is small, best go genuine.

Black (or dark grey) with red stiching is awesome. (My next upgrade on my white R34) Black with silver stitching would look good too.

I used to play it regularly at the Russell St arcades, until they took them away :'( Always drove the R34 GTR Z-tune. Only places I know that have Battle Gear 4 Tuned. - Crown Casino (Galactic Circus) - Has 6 speed H pattern shifter with clutch. - Boxhill Central (one of the arcades on Station St near the corner of Whitehorse Rd) - Has sequential gear shift - Victoria Gardens Shopping Center, Richmond - Next to the cinemas - Has sequential gear shift Anyone know of other places that have these machines?

1000hp potential HKS built up a 4.8L Patrol for some guy in the Middle East - It's on youtube somewhere.

I can say these cars are bullet proof, never any problems. Workmate has one (5 speed manual), clocked up 280,000km, original owner. One of my friends has one (4 speed auto), clocked up 310,000km, second owner. They just get the cars regularly serviced.

...with a cat back You should be looking for a big aussie 6, since you are doing highway ks. A smaller car eg. civic/corolla/pulsar will not really save you much fuel for highway use. But for urban use, definately. You also need to factor in servicing and parts - Commodore and Falcon will always be the cheapest to service, negating the service costs for a smaller car.

I don't know much about them personally. My mate's family had one. Copper S 2001 model when it just came out. - All I know is the trans (manual) had to be changed 3 times - apparently it had a design flaw. Auto trans I'm not sure how they were. - Build quality is pretty avg, for the high price you pay. Basically they said "never again". However I'm sure the newer models are better and niggles resolved.

Check the air temp sensor (attached to the airbox)

Toyota (BEAMS) 3sge from a JDM Toyota Altezza with 6 speed manual and an LSD - lots of fun to be had

Keep spotting JNRZAN around Reservoir/Northern Subs. Also spotted a bomby dark coloured S15 on Albert St Preston with such bad alignment the car looks like its "crab walking" - maybe bad drift damage??? But gosh it looks funny.

Also make sure you specify sedan or coupe, I think they "could" be different.

V35 Skyline 3.5L with a 6 speed manual would be quite quick.... still legal for P plates too. Pricey for most P platers anyways.

I'd go a simple setup. Have one near a place with food. Bookings must be made online, with calendar style system. 6 hour blocks from 6AM to 6PM 12 hour block from 6PM to 6AM 24 and 48 hour blocks available, more days are negotiable. Unplanned garage overtime is double rate (eg when the person stays longer than the time they booked). $100 upfront cleaning bond - Will be returned once garage has been deemed clean. No tools provided - BYO Garage will have the following: 2+ hoists (more hoists the better) free wi-fi - people have online instruction manuals/books benches parts washer compressed air oil and fluid disposal plenty of lighting vac and cleaning equipment

That is very true (basing the info for the 3 series) - plenty of design flaws from the beginning. I suppose the only way around this is to find a BMW that has been always serviced by a BMW dealership at the correct intervals - as most of the problems would have been fixed. Usually these cars cost much more. There is no such thing as a "cheap" bmw. The cheap BMWs usually have pending issues or the owner is tired of the high maintenance cost.