iseekool

Don't wait. Insure it now - 3rd party minimum - just a few hundred $$$ a year - all it takes is for you to smash something worth 1000s of $$$ - the last thing you will think about is your car. I recommend you at least have 3rd party fire and theft - as skylines in general are hot items. Getting basic insurance early will add to your rating

Yep stongly agree. MAC users (even the non technical) need to open their eyes and realise that MACs are running overpriced average PC hardware with nice asthetics.

I've been doing a little reading into this. Looks like your ECU may need more tweaking/tuning to get the best from LPG - hopefully by increasing your engine torque you will also reduce LPG consumption. -> http://www.acl.com.au/web/acl00056.nsf/0/3...3e?OpenDocument

To my knowledge on a stock Skyline - disconnect the battery and push the brake pedal for around 30 seconds. Reconnect the battery and away you go.

*Slightly off topic* Is the wiring regarding this setup "plug and play"? As in no messing around with the connectors.

I suppose there are quite a few factors ie. your engine wasn't built as a factory dedicated LPG engine (eg. new falcons, camrys and commodores) - possibly the cam profiles, compression and ignition systems have been optimised for LPG (don't quote me on this - it's just an educated guess). Some forums and motoring jurnos out there claim you use about 25% to 30% more gas as opposed to petrol, but even at that rate, LPG is still cheaper - if you do the high milage.

LPG in general is not as efficient as petrol. LPG has less energy, therefore you use more. Your consumption of LPG seems about right. I'd check your air filter first Only way to increase LPGs efficiency is to up the engine compression or up the boost slightly - this will give you more torque - there increasing engine efficiency. ECU reset will not do much IMHO. Resetting will not do any harm.

The mid 90s Daihatsu Charade with the optional 1.3L EFI or 1.6LEFI engine, is pretty good and nimble. 75kw (1.3) or 88kw (1.6) and roughly 890kg. Good for the technical stuff if you can keep it on the boil and figure how to keep traction. My folks have a 1.3L - it goes quite well from 0 to 80 (around town) - higher speeds is very meh. Very nimble around round abouts and the tight stuff. Typical street speeds 50 to 80 - its actually a pretty good car. End of the day it is a car designed for a 3 cylinder carb engine.

Sweet engines - but rare as rocking horse poo. I had no idea the FJ engine was much heavier than an 4 cyl L series - Interesting to know

I bought my splitfires 3 years ago (dreaded R34 GT/GTt dying coils at 100,000km). I've done 37,000km on the splitfires and going strong. What's the typical life of coilpacks?

I like the FJ20ET - Built tough, big power potential, but getting old.

This thread is started out of being bored. What do you guys think is the best 2L engine? Could be anything. - Iron or alloy - 4/6/8 cylinder - V/inline/boxer - non-turbo/supercharged or turbo - SOHC/DOHC - Petrol/Diesel Why do you think it's such a good engine? Discuss.

My mate - re-introduced this to me (I thought Drag-Tag closed down due to a shifting its focus on manufacturing systems) --> http://www.tagsystems.com.au/index.html

Yep. "Could" be a personal import - there seems to be no restrictions when it comes to this - but I really dont know. Clicky ---> http://www.cargoonline.com.au/importapproval.php

Problem I see with MAC is that you must use MAC hardware - I find that a tad unfair especially for majority of people out there that just want to use their computers for web, music and some movie watching - buying expensive MAC hardware is not worth it - no matter how good or bad it is. The bottom line is MACs are expensive. Sure MACs have a nice style to them with alloy this, stainless that - but really its all for wank/rice factor. Nice to the eyes - but doesn't serve any real performance/productivity increase. The hardware is quite average to say the least. Reasons why people have minimal issues with MACs is because hardware and software is exclusive and not open to third parties - think gaming consoles. UI is a matter of personal preference - so this will be open to discussion - doesn't matter if you like MAC/Win or Linux. End of the day - I find that all the OS have way too much un-needed and performance taxing eye candy. @Boz - Roaming profiles suck and ask for more troubles (doesn't matter what platform) - The company I work for use folder re-direction and have GPs in place to ensure desktops cannot be overly customized - which is just as good and faster. I think the head if your IT department needs a good kick in the head for allowing roaming profiles on Government computers. - Bad for network performance. - Bad for security if a PC or laptop gets physically stolen. - Slow to load upon inital logon = frustrated users - Sometimes does not load properly at all MACs seem to work fine in AD domains - but yes printer drivers/scanner/multifunction are bitch and sometimes non-exsistent. People that say software such as Adobe working better on MAC are currently wrong (maybe in the past they are correct) - They actually work better on Windows 7 64 bit once you have an nVidia based card and leverage CUDA technology - With the money you save on not buying a MAC you can get a kick ass nVidia quadro/geforce card, lots of RAM, RAID setup and i5/i7. Unfortunately Apple's offerings for performance hardware is poor.

Maybe they could be GT4 (AWD models). The ones you posted are manual GTv cars

Depends where you are from - I'm from Melbourne Yes they do stare - waiting for an excuse to pull you over

^ Just to clarify - because some of the above information is wrong. GT (2.0L) models are not allowed in Australia because they are too underpowered. GT25, GTv, GTt, GT4 (2.5L) Is allowed. All R34 (except GTR) all have NEO spec engines. The non turbo 2.5L R34 delivers more power than previous generation non turbo 2.5L due to the new Variable Valve timing. There is no difference in power output between S1 and S2. All GT, GT25, GT4 comes with 2 pot brakes (front) and 1 pot brakes (rear) as standard. It is the GTv (non turbo with all the GTt bits) and GTt that come with 4 pot brakes (front) and 2 pot brakes (rear) - the ones with "Nissan" written on them. All RWD auto GT25, GTv and GTt come with tiptronic trans. The exceptions are the AWD (GT4) models and the GT (2.0L) To the best of my knowledge there is no such thing as a Series 2 GTv - The limited GTv model was only released on Series 1 (someone please correct me if I'm wrong regarding the GTv info) All this info is based off the Official Genuine R34 Skyline brochure.

You will learn heaps about the VG engine because you will always have to take the engine out.

*puts on flame suit* If it comes to power and budget. How about a V6 manual VS acclaim (it has IRS compared to the basic commodore). - external oil cooler - larger radiator - Plenum spacer - High flow filter and zorst - Suspension upgrade - Bigger brakes from the VT - slicks/semi slicks - LSD - Lower geared diff for faster accel. - Some form of body brace/cage - the VB to VS bodies suffer from flexing

The whole point of the topic it has to be P plate legal - having engine swaps or major engine upgrades like that are not allowed on P plate restrictions. KE70 with a 4age will be ok too - but not sure about the legalities for a P plater.

IMHO - I'd try to stay clear of european cars - they would be quite pricey to service considering the target market are P platers this "could" pose an issue of expensive running cost. Mk IV - Supra SZ-R would be nice: - It has a 6 speed getrag manual - n/a - LSD - Big brakes

Yeh would be - but the GT-V runs the large stock GTt brakes whick are upto the task. A set of good brake pads is a must. I'm trying to keep the budget small

Hahaha. Needs some stage 1, stage 2 etc etc On a serious note. - Keeping it legitimately street legal means you have to keep stock ECU (no nistune or anything like that) therefore - minimal mods - The trick to anything being tracked is: - Reliability. - Being able to keep the engine within the powerband. - Good brakes. - Limited slip diff. My friend's foster father has an old Peugeot 205 for track duties - his mods: - Sparco driver's seat with harness - Rear seat removed. - Front passenger seat is removable. - Battery moved to the back. - Stripped out interior. All that remains is the climate control panel and cheap single din radio with 2 front speakers - Runs on stock wheels with Dunlop semi slicks - 1/2 cage - Slotted rotors at the front with stock rotors on the rear - Stock brakes with premium pads all round - Koni shocks - Larger radiator with twin thermo fans - High flow filter and extractors (some other zorst work to I think) - Stock engine

R34 GT-V manual. - Take out all seats - Put some nice light weight wheels - Heavy duty clutch - Upgrade suspension - High flow panel filter and cat - External oil cooler - Bigger radiator - Thermo fans - Catch can - Light weight bonnet of some description - Sticky tires - Premium fluids If budget permits - Carbon driveshaft - Light weight flywheel - Slotted rotors Trying to keep it legal with minimal mods. Reasoning behind the R34 - Parts are readily available - Lots of support from SAU - Big brakes and LSD - Ridgid body - RB25DE NEO has reasonable torque and seems to rev out much faster (more responsive) than the older non NEO engines.