iseekool

Hey there mate - I know you... you live 5 minutes away from me....

It must perform well it's a "type s" I wonder if it were a "type r".... But seriously - are cup holders really that important??? I can only speak from the R34 point of view - but the cup holders in the R34 fail quite badly for two large drinks from maccas. I heard somewhere the guys with manual trans have issues of hitting thier drinks when shifting into 2,4 and 6 (if you have a GTR). I drive an auto and I too find myself nudging the drinks with my wrist when going into drive or decided to use the tiptroninc.

R31 good forr 600,000km???? --->

I just cheat. Go to the shoe care section of the supermarket. - Buy black "scuff remover" and some black shoe polish (I recommend the kiwi branded stuff) - Apply the scuff remover on the "worn bits" - let it soak in. - Keep re-applying scuff remover until the "worn bits" are black. - Wait 1/2 hour - Now apply a light coat of shoe polish on the blackend "worn bits" and the surrounding leather. This is more to help seal the worn leather. - Brush with a shoe brush - It should now be hard to see. It lasts a long time for me - roughly 6 months if done properly - the trick is to ensure the scuff remover really soaks into the damaged leather as the shoe polish is there for protection - not colour.

I thought they were the same..... Are they identical brands? They could just be trying to sell off some old stock.

I'm not out to make fun of you... RB20E in an R33 - Fark me Not even an RB20DE Those things aren't even legal (on Australian roads) because they fall way below the power to weight ratio. Hope your car is a manual - so you can maximise every last KW out of it. Personally I wouldn't bother trying to add anymore power to it - it's illegal on your P plates and a waste of money. Put a high flow panel filter and good quality tires - other mods will not give you much gain as you will not be going too fast anyways. Only thing I can recommend is learn how to keep the engine "on the boil" (revs up) - use the best synthetic oils and the best replacement fluids as I imagine you will be really revving the engine to get any sort of power.

Just to add to that since the RB is a short stroke inline 6 - It should theoretically be able to "rev up" faster and smoother as inline 6s are "perfectly balanced" - compared to a 4 cylinder @ SKiT_R31 for the excellent N/A info - Bit off-topic are you a mechanical engineer (or something along those lines)?

They have come down in price - autos are cheaper than manuals anyway. I'd say fuel economy would be on the good side of average - not a light drinker but not a guzzler either - you will also need to fill it up using premium unleaded. Another option in the v35 range would be the tiptronic sedan version VQ30 (direct injection) - these are somewhere in the 16k to 20k mark depending on year.

V35 skylines would be what the doc recommends 350GT Premium tiptronic auto. The driver's seat has many electric adjustments so you can have it just the way you like. Car isn't overly low so you can get in and out quite easy. Comfy car with lots of performance. More gutsy than a 318is, newer and roughly the same price and parts are reasonable.

His car is a 2.5 Hope you guys tested this stuff on the track NOT on the road.....

V35 350 GT coupe and sedans (and lower models) is legal in Victoria. It's niether a V8 or turbo, and it has 4 or more seats putting it in the family car category Refer to attachment from Vicroads - please take note of the date (for you future readers out there). or this link http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/Licenc...gedvehicles.htm ApplicationtodriveaLowerPerformanceSuperchargedTurbochargedVehicle.pdf

If you are running the stock side mounted intercooler - I do NOT recommend putting a non-turbo bumper - reason being is that it needs the side vent. If you have a front mount intercooler - the non-turbo bumper will be ok, but may require some modification. If you intend on keeping the side mount intercooler - your options are limited to the GTT bumper or nismo bumper - or if you're really keen a GT-R bumper, which means you will need a new bonnet, side fenders etc.

Seats are the same. Could be the rails that are different lengths - as you will need to move the seats more for coupes for rear passenger access.

That is correct. GT-R is different.

Hi all, I'm after a pair of stock white (QT1 - pearl white) side skirts for my R34 sedan (4 door). No other colours will be accepted - I don't want to go though the fuss of painting. Must be in good condition - nothing broken. Willing to accept ones with minor stone chips or with minor grazes which are not obvious when installed on the car. Based in Melbourne metro area. Please PM me. Cheers Mark

I'm running 6000K. It's not very good on rainy nights or if there are too many yellowish street lights. 4300~4500K is about right - Which is white. I find that 6000K has a light purple "tint" to it - but on dark (country) roads I find that 6000K is pretty good as the light seems a little softer/natural.

Would be interesting for an na+t setup - keep the high comp pistons etc and put a low boost setup. It would definately haul at low RPMs with out sacrificing response.

If budget and requirements are met. Why not go a VQ35 - torquey engine and lots of N/A aftermarket support.

Hi mate, Is this a sedan or coupe? Cheers

I do the same thing. However night time it is hard to see if anyone is up there

I'd imagine if it is going to be for a daily car and not driving it hard around corners it should suffice. If it meets DOT specifications - the tyre is safe enough for general use. Just don't expect it to perform if you are an "enthusiastic" driver, ride quality may suffer too.

If you find the vice grips slipping - put a rubber band (those thick red ones) around the head of the bolt.

Around lunch time - spotted a really clean (looks brand new!), stock silver C34 Stagea at BP Thomastown - driven by some senoir citizens.

I'm going to take a different angle here - keep the boys in blue away but still have something that can give you a smile. No point getting defected if you are running a more conservative setup. IMHO This is more of an all round tweak than "focusing" on 1 thing. 2k is very easy to blow away - especially since you are not doing the work (relying on mechanics) The list below may cost slightly more than 2k but I'll try to keep it roughly around that mark. - FMIC is fine - ensure all piping is black. - Get rid of the POD - change to a stock airbox and high flow panel filter (ask for a high flow for a Holden Commodore VS)- not very expensive - Quality brake pads all round. - Quality tires. (This makes the biggest handling and braking difference for money spent). - Quality free flowing quiet catback exhaust - some good second hand ones around eg. fujitsubo etc. - just give a nice coat of high temp paint, if it looks a little dated - Don't get a cannon/cheap aftermarket as the stock ones perform better than these. - Quality oils and fluids all round. - Re-map your stock ecu - to take advantage of your better exhaust and FMIC - best bang for buck performance gain. - Window tint all round - Darkest legal. - Clear side indicators. - Get the car detailed as a once off or do it yourself - Polish those head lights and install some Narva +30 headlights. Suspension is a nice mod too - but it is easy to blow almost the whole budget on it alone - probably do that next - or change it now if you feel that the current ones worn out. I personally don't believe in 2nd hand suspension - get brand new and not worry about it for a while - especially if you don't do the work yourself. Remember to always factor in labour costs.

Just to add - L series engines were not cross flow designs too That OS giken head would be horn.