iseekool

I'm not trying to start a sh*t fight here. I was just giving my point of view. Why are you calling me a dog for?

Nothing wrong with posting number plates. They are public knowledge anyway. Besides it helps in getting spotted. Example: If you spot a silver R33 - that doesn't mean very much - especially if it mildly moded or a sleeper - that can be anyone's ride..... If someone is driving like a douche - whats wrong with a little name and shame? Helps weed out the bad eggs. If you don't want anyone on this Earth to see your number plates you might as well hide your car too - Because I'm sure the cops will not approve people driving around without them.

I think it's around $1.9K AUD....

Off topic - but on that note - (not trying to talk down on China or any cheap labour country) - I'm surprised there are no Chinese (or any other cheaper) copies of the whole RB engine design. Hell... I'm surprised why the whole "skyline/gt-r" has not yet been copied for the Chinese domestic market, since the Skyline platform has been proven to perform well and be reasonably safe - may not be perfect - but there is no R&D costs to factor in - therefore the cars can be produced cheap. I've read articles in the past (mid 90s) where Holden has sold its old tooling to South Korea as well as the design for the VB-VL Commodore for really cheap.

Not sure about NSW or other states. But in Victoria they are.

For his gt-r - hahahaha

Full aftermarket systems (ECU) - NO Some piggyback ECU - Sometimes Stock ECU - Yes

Drive the GTS around till you are off your Ps. "Park" the GT-R and put money into modding it - the money you spend in converting to an RB25DE and re-converting it back to an RB26 (original engine) once you are off your Ps can buy many mods - with less hassle - which sometimes does not have a dollar value.... Once you are off your Ps you will have a modded GT-R ready to go....

3" 1/2 exhaust turbo back, split fire coil packs, t4 turbo, greddy inter cooler, boost controller, pod filter, so is this a non modified car? whats a modified one like? im just not fully up there with everything to do with cars thats why i'm asking for help so i can learn. Cool. Stock airbox is up to the task. Your current setup isn't too bad. Your current setup doesn't need map based system - the gains will be very minimal vs cost. Best spend the money on a dyno tune/re-map - you will be surprised how much more power you get - the car will still be very streetable. IMHO It will also give less excuse for the boys in blue to dong you as hard - just remember to hide your boost controller Changing to a MAP based system (ECU etc.) will probably only benefit if you are going to go for much more power - which will mean larger injectors, cams, list goes on.... which unfortunately means more $ to spend. Since you are on a budget, a re-map is probably going to be the best bang for buck upgrade with your current setup.

Depends what mods you have... But from what I gather (by reading your sort of post) is your engine is not modified. The stock air box will be more than capable. Probably best note down your modifications and people can help you better on deciding on the next step.

The R34 filter is the same as an R33. I'll also add that you can walk into any Holden dealership and buy genuine air filters cheap. Just ask for a VL to VS air filter You probably get better performance changing your airfilters more regularly IMO.

Paul Walker eat your heart out. More "rice" to go with the tuna....

It's your brake booster hose or your brake booster is busted internally causing vacum leak. I'm talking from experience having had a similar issue in my 83' Bluebird and the fundamentals R34 vacum isn't too much different too - So I imagine the the S13 will be quite similar. - Change the hose first (cheapest and obvious) see if it fixes the problem - while you are at it change all the vacum lines - one thing I notice is that all the vacum systems are interconnected in some way - so a busted vacum hose in another spot could cause issues elsewhere in the car. - Change your brake booster with a re-cond. or brand new one. *IF* th issue is electrical. - Check for lose connections. - Ensure all grounding wire are connected. - Check all fuses. - Check for frayed wires - there could be an elecrical component that could be arcing when you apply the brake - brake light system is arcing somewhere in the body. - If you have checked the basics above or unsure - best take it to an auto electrician.

Throwing meat into a cage of lions

*cough*

Bit dodgy - but good call

When I bought my car there was a dead little bird between my condenser and my radiator. It was basically dried to a crisp - not sure how long it has been there - but I'm "guessing" a few months - no smell. Possibly the litle bugger tried hitching a ride from Japan.....

My dad told me he spotted a blue R34 gtr plate number "vspec" in Bundoora area this arvo. I didn't spot any skylines today...odd... what's the deal with that...???

Actually I think we are both wrong. I just did some research (because I was curious) I4 fires every 180 degrees I6 fires every 120 degrees V8 fires every 90 degrees or 180 degrees - depending on engine design. Anyways here is a good read ---> http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/engine/smooth1.htm It talks about engine designs.

huh? please be joking...

Or a Chinese manufacturer buys the wreck and "steals" the technology to makes a Chinese super car Which would probably look half way between a GT-R and an LF-A .. just a crazy theory

iseekool = icy-cool (as in cold) hahahaha

Your right there Marc - maybe a work around would to have slightly lower geared diff to compensate - only problem would be on wide open tracks with long straights...

250GT (4speed) and 300GT (5 speed) use conventional automatics NOT CVT - use Nissan J-Matic or Castrol Transmax Z 350GT (5 speed) coupe uses conventional auto NOT CVT - use Nissan J-Matic or Castrol Transmax Z 350GT sedan is the only model in the V35 range that use CVT - use Nissan KLE51-00004 Hope that helps clear things up.

The OP mention he is not allowed a turbo, and I imagine he may need to keep the same "original engine". As good as the SR20VE maybe - it may not meet regulations. Maybe we have to take a step back from the "max amount of power I can get" mentality and possibly more towards reliability and engine response side of things (nothing wrong with more power - maybe look at it from a different angle - is what I'm trying to say). Since you will be revving the engine quite hard constantly - engine balance, oiling systems and cooling would be the first things to look at. As with any race engine build - reliabilty should be right up there with performance, no point having all these KW and having the engine break down on you...